Mopar1973Man

Either battery will work for jump starting another vehicle. If jump starting the Cummins I would hook to the driver side battery shorter run for getting power to the starter. I've been known to use both batteries on super dead stuff.

Stock is 310 bar.

MAP sensor wise I would suggest Cummins but expect to pay the Cummins price for it. I'm not sure if the part stores stock MAP sensor for the Cummins and what the quality is like. Rockauto shows a listing... http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,fuel+&+air,manifold+pressure+(map)+sensor,11207

I'll make some phone calls today and see what I can do.

Bingo. I remember seeing that... Thanks for posting that...

If I remember right they would be 310 to 315 bar.

If you watch you'll see the grid heater kick in about the same time the engine struggles and bounces out of 3 cylinder mode and revs back up on 6 cylinder mode.

As long as it doesn't eat the o-rings in the VP44. That might be an expensive mistake. That's why I like the CarbDip idea it does EATS the carbon right off the injectors including the varnish but its so strong it has to be sold in STEEL paint can. Any plastic or rubber will dissolve fairly quickly.

Alternator loading? My does off and on where the grid heater hit and it stuggles to keep going against the exhaust brake. So I'll start out on 6 cylinder and flip over to 3 cylinder later. Or start on 3 cylinder and wait 5 minutes and the add exhaust brake.

Most likely valve lash. Guessin' till you check the adjustment. Typically when you let off the throttle fuel stops and the engine becomes quiet.

If you want I can get a bid on injectors for you. What are you looking for on injectors?

MAP sensor is damaged for it be stuck at 47 PSI.

Normal. The grid heaters draw 95 Amps for single element and 190 for both elements. So every time the grid heater cycle on for post heat it will pull the alternator down hard. I typically attempt to either set high idle to help keep the RPM up so the truck can warm up without straining the alternator or start and get rolling quickly because after 20 MPH the grid heater are disabled. This goes back to what kills the alternator diodes and creates the AC noise issue because the alternator isn't turning fast enough to cool the diodes so the overheat quickly and fail. Another reason some of us unhook the grid heaters in the spring of the year.

24V engine I really don't see the reason for new bodies being its rather rare for issues. Now CR engines the injector body take a lot more pressure and abuse.

I would double check the valve lash.

I think I see your point. The 3rd Gens are a 9cm2 exhuast which should be a touch higher. Being where my Hybrid 35/40 is a 12cm2 housing which should be a bit lower.

Agreed. Even my 2nd Gen is the same realm for boost at those speeds.

I've even go farther and pull an injector and soak it for 24 hours in 100% injector cleaner. I can tell you that it didn't clean a single thing. Now the best injectors clean it CarbDip that stuff strips every bit of carbon off and wipes clean. I can also tell you that all Power Service products are mixed 400:1 ratio. So 35 gallon fuel tank is 4,480 ounces. Now divide 4,480 ounces by 400 and you add 11.2 ounces of Power Service to the fuel. Hmmm... Like pissin' in a pond I really doubt it will do anything if 100% Power Service could not clean a single an injector in 24 hours.

Time to do the valve lash. I've pulled every bit of sound dampening material off my truck I got sick and tired of finding the mice packing it around under the hood. Even without my sound dampening material, my truck isn't that loud.

That it. Right at the reverse switch.

Great idea.

I can promise the injector cleaner will do nothing. If you want clean injectors you have pull them and hand clean them one at a time.

You might be up for a challenge?! I started driving backwards before forwards. Every day for school I use to back the family car down the driveway to the front gate. So I knew how to drive backward before forwards. To this day I can typically drive faster than the transmission will let me in reverse.

Just stick the discharge hose of the shop vacuum to the filler neck of the fuel tank.

I'm scratching my head now. Headlights are on their own circuit fused out at the PDC. Radio is after the ignition switch side fused inside the cab. This is what is puzzling because power supply to the lights and radio are to totally different circuits. Now the ground sides are shared and are all in common with each other. I need to see wire colors. Hard to tell.