Mopar1973Man

No... Actually its another site I surf every morning... https://imgur.com/r/justrolledintotheshop

Anything over 0.05 is getting to be a problem and random issues. 0.1 is a for sure failure constant issues and problem are for sure. Lower the AC noise the better off. Like my last check on mine is 0.035 AC Volts.

Those are H1 mini's for sure. Welcome to the club of Morimoto HIDs...

Version 2... Of squeaky brakes...

Alternator is a fail. It's need to be replaced. You might have to send the ECM back for AC noise damage again.

That's all I would do is swap the pins around for the head light plug.

Make sure the shop is testing for AC ripple noise. Most shops just check for DC volts and DC AMps as long as it meets the requirement its passing. Now with today's electronics in the vehicle the DC power has to be clean and AC noise free. Lot of stores haven't upgraded test stands. 0.22 is a FAIL and very very damaging. A new or properly working alternator is typically 0.02 to 0.03 AC volts (or 20-30 mV AC).

I'm running the Dayco Gold Label now for a belt...

Ummm... Well it tough to find a NEW alternator anymore most in the parts stores are all remanufactured. So I HIGHLY suggest you bench test your current alternator first to see if it truly failing. Then the new alternator they pull off the shelf and have that one tested before you even pay for it.

When you figure out boost pressure and compression ratio (16.3:1 or 17.0:1) you find that the calculated cylinder pressures are way up there. Like the last I remember on the math at 30 PSI of boost with no fuel the cylinder pressures are roughly 1,100 PSI. So when your getting upwards in boost pressure and dumping lots of fuel the pressures get even higher. The thing is the injection pressure always is high than cylinder pressures so fuel continues to spray because of heavy throttle. Now jump off the throttle instantly that pressure will most likely over come the pintle and push compression gasses back into the fuel rails air locking the injection pump. This why most performance guys have to tap the throttle several times as the RPM's falls to keep fuel spraying and keep pushing the compression gases back out of the lines.

Get rid of that filter... Throw it in the trash and fix the real problem which is the alternator. Your APPS problem could now be a AC noise issue or damaged ECM from excessive AC noise. Is there any other wiring modification done? Yes, Most likely. Test the AC noise voltage at the BATT terminal of the alternator running. It should be less than 0.05 AC volts. Make sure to use a quality digital meter that has a 2V or smaller scale AC.

I had to look up "coonass"...

My set I had made from Retro Shop all the wiring was tested before shopping. Then the lights were assembled and aimed before shipping too. Way less headache....

If you do the test strip pay attent to the pH level more so. I see way too many shops here locally just watching the freeze point and people losing radiators and heater cores because the freeze point is fine but the pH is corrosive and eating everything in the engine.

Not right away no. Need to verify that there isn't a wiring issue or power issue creating the problem. But it really helps to do some diagnostic work to see where the problem is. I've got to ask do you have an Automatic Transmission? Did you possibly do any modifications to add grounds to the APPS wiring or modify wiring on the engine to resolve TQ converter issues? I've seen people suggest adding grounds to the APPS wiring to the PCM and this might be done wrong or poorly creating issues for your dead pedal. I always highly suggest not to modify any wiring on the engine there is ZERO need for it.

Personally my favorite is the ISSPro EV2 series because you can do more with them than the EV series. They are programmable on a USB cord to set many different things in the gauge do other functions. Like setting the warning light to come on at a set value, setting the light brightness to your preferred level. Set the sensitivity of the needle to the data seen. Then if you want the gauge to turn on or off an accessory at a programmed level you can add the relay kit and do just that. Like add a cooling fan for your trans cooler and set the fan to come on at 180*F. Totally programmable.

Need a live data tool and watch the TPS signal to see if dropping out. Might check for error codes using OBDII tool and see if there is any codes pertaining to the APPS sensor.

Personally, I would keep the priming lift pump. Say you traveling during the winter time and get a bad batch of fuel requiring a filter change you might be in bad shape if the lift pump isn't there is prime the system again.

Do keep in mind failed blower resistor is caused from failed fan bearing. The bearing start to tighten up dragging the blower down and the resistors get hot till the burn up. So I'd highly suggest checking the blower motor out and might end up replacing it. The other AC noise source I found in a TSB years ago was the stock lift pump. Being most people no longer have that this is a non-issue for AC noise.

Yeah I've got my own shop... Link below will pull up my Google result and you can get directions to my place. https://www.google.com/search?q=mopar1973man

That's the funny part the ground for the PCM, ECM and VP44 do NOT mount to the body or block.That is the important wire right there that feeds the ground to the computers. It only hooks directly to the battery. That wire can't be replaced unless you replace the entire loom. As for the other grounds they are all secondary like lights and horn. Like for example the headlight ground is in the cab at the driver side kick panel. So randomly pulling and cleaning grounds won't do a thing unless you know what that wire is for. The biggest thing is to verify for sure there is no AC noise in any of the power. If you have to measure the AC voltage as you drive. If your getting excessive AC noise we've got to start disconnecting device one at a time and hunting for the source of the noise. Ford and Chevy's have this issue as well just they manifest in different ways. Like my truck isn't an automatic but it causes a surge in the cruise control and random dumping of the throttle. so far every time it's been a alternator failure for me.

Bit of trivia... What happens if the P1693 code is on the ECM? Its not the companion code any more... Now the code is point back to the primary computer. Yes, its possible to get the P1693 on both computers at the same time basically pointing fingers at both computers having issues. So the computer that is reporting the code it pointing towards the other for error.

The only year the key trick works on correctly is the 2002. 1998.5 to 1999 doesn't work 2000 to 2001 typically report only the PCM which end up being P1693 which is "error codes on other computer." End of story... 2002 will report both PCM and ECM correctly. This is why I typically just suggest an OBDII tool and be done...

Good bet. If the wait to start light doesn't come on the ECM is basically brain dead you can attempt to start the truck it will not start at all till that wait to start light does come on. Now the software is loaded. Being its having issues loading the software the other codes could be caused by bad data or software on the ECM.

All other error codes go out the window if there is a Wait To Start issue this points to bad memory on the ECM and could be self creating the error because of booting issues. Till the wait to start issue is resolved your chasing ghosts...