Mopar1973Man

Batteries are getting weak? Battery connecting are weak? Sound like the grid heaters are hitting and laying all the load on the alternator bogging down the engine pulling against the alternator. If the batteries are weak or connection then all power is supplied by the alternator which is only able to produce 140 Amps and grad heaters can be 95 Amps (one element) or 190 amp (two elements).

If the alternator is completely removed. (Alternator fuse and field lead unplugged) you still get shift or lockup problems then I would look towards ground issues or speed sensor issues. Remember the speed sensors use AC waveforms to report speed frequency back to the PCM. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 is unmolested yet and still no shift issues to date with it 46RE. As for my 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 I've been through 5 alternators and all where bad diodes and all caused cruise control surge issues since I don't have an automatic 47RE transmission.

The only APPS sensor I would suggest is the Timbo's APPS being it completely mechanical and there is ZERO electronics inside. No voltage to set.

Already done...

Don't add a ground to the APPS sensor this is supposed to be a "floating ground" and NOT to have reference to the body or true ground. You in turn affecting all sensor grounds when you do that I highly suggest you remove that added ground.

No. Just displays the pressure in kpa... DRBIII tool will show sensor voltage but that tool is right around $6,000 for the price. I'm currently working with @Chris O. on CCD bus tool that would provide much more information from the engine and sensors. We are attempting to get this moving along beyond BETA testing to actual production.

Or if you can get propane at all... Like my neighbor learned a few winters ago his drive is a fairly steep slope and was really icy. The propane truck couldn't make it up his driveway and had to delay delivery till the driveway thawed out some make it possible to get the propane truck up there. So this why we have two forms of heat. One is the electric modular heat pump then firewood. So if power is out for any length of time we still can start a fire in the wood stove and stay warm. Being that propane and electric forced air is requiring electricity to operate you need to ensure a mode of heat that doesn't require city services (power and/or propane). Just food for thought for everyone... The longest power outage I've been through is 23 days in the middle of winter. Consider this...

Your communication problems are between the VP44 and the ECM. You need to to do the ohm test on the wiring to verify there is 0 ohm from end to end. Then infinite ohm from open sockets to ground. Power issues can produce P1689 codes too but typically the truck doesn't start or run but does set the error code.

My bad...

I highly suggest against creating new grounds and wiring... The ECM, PCM and VP44 get their ground from the passenger battery.

Ummm... Stock head bolts... No leaks... Change up again on my tune again I came down a degree in cruise timing and changed my span of timing over RPM again.

True... My ISSPro EV2 is working just fine. I've only replaced my pyrometer under warranty. Fuel pressure gauge wise I've got a 0 to 30 PSI gauge. Then using the programming cable and software I programmed the gauge to trip the warning light when the fuel pressure falls below 13 PSI. Then make sure to remote mount the pressure sensor do not install into the tap point. I'm sure that fuel pressure sensor failures will occur.

What was the test results?

Just make sure you adjusting the voltage properly. Do not adjust the voltage to match the tag voltage you want to be BELOW the tag voltage a little bit.

The only other idea was the speed sensor on the tail shaft of the transmission. Did you try that?

PDC = Power Distribution Center It will be hooked to constant +12V. I don't have all the corroded wiring and wiring rotting off the battery terminal and shorting out. Being hooked in the PDC power stud the wires don't get damaged from venting battery acid vapors. I can still jump start vehicles without all the wire hair hanging off the battery terminals.

Same here... It's nice to have firewood around the corner from the house and easy to get. Might consider a heat pump system. I'll admit I paid $13,000 for the system I've got in the house here. It's a ductless system and uses modular heads. So far I'm closing in on a year of ownership and love this unit. There are a few things about it that is rather strange but have heat and A/C in this house for the first time is awesome. Power bill is up some but nothing crazy. Really???

I don't hook anything directly to the battery. All my power stuff is hooked up at the PDC. The stud on the left side is power. Don't use the right stud if the alternator fuse blows it will fry everything. Ground I just use a body ground. There is ZERO reason for anything being hooked up to the battery.

No. There is no fuel pressure sensor on the ECM or engine. It can only read the available sensors by the ECM. For sure the 2000 series tunes.

The whole problem the gauge needs to have about 6 feet of hose on it. The gauges for rent from part stores are typically about 1-2 foot long. This will not work being you need to measure fuel pressure at highway speed and loads. Idle fuel pressure will show typically higher than what is road speed loads will. Like this one would do the job... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VPMAX-Fuel-Pressure-Tester-Test-Gauge-Schrader-p/fpt.htm At that rate you would be best to just install a fuel pressure gauge in the cab and be done...

I've got at least 3-4 cords of large ponderosa pine rounds out in the yard. I just wish I had more time to split wood and had the help to stack it. Sad part is now it's too late to stack the wood in the shed it would block access to my dry wood being everything in the yard is now frozen wet.

I hope in the future I can get lucky with a relationship as well. All mine have failed in a short order. Someday I would love to married. But I'm trying to be patient but...

Seat heater element is either shorted or open.

Firing order is... 1 5 3 6 2 4 So It's going to be firing on the back 3 cylinders. The front 3 cylinders should be dead. On my truck the front 3 cylinder you can touch the manifold. The rear 3 cylinders are typically floating around 900*F with my exhaust brake on and typically crossing the 170*F coolant shut down in under 10 minutes.

Not bad its all day project for a newbie. I do them now in about 4 hours. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/54_cab-interior/hvac-case-removal-r320/