Mopar1973Man

I stand corrected... Thank you for the find...

Much more. Flash software updates. Communicate with all device from the OBDII port. Diagnostics as well being able to adjust some stuff too.

Not visible on mine...

Look closely you'll notice they just took the shroud and sanded it on a belt sander.

In a nutshell the CCD Bus provided by Dodge is what is connected to all the devices. (ECM, PCM, ABS, Etc.) So the DRBIII tool is what typically is used to do this task to program a VIN number. As for rebuilders I'm sure they have a dummy setup bench which allows then to flash using other means like a laptop or other devices etc.

Funny part both file load just fine for me. The getting pissed file is basically blank with no tuning. In other words timing is 15 across the board. Happy has a actual tune there is valid settings.

Have no idea. Mine was fully assembled I just bolted them in the truck. So as for taking notice to vents on the headlights or water seals, I didn't.

Just hover your mouse pointer on the CCD (dotted underlined acronyms) and the full definition will display.

Way different... 24V PCM is all set up with CCD networking and being able to talk to several modules all at once. Now the 12V PCM is pretty basic and doesn't have CCD networking. Everything basically is hard-wired from point to point. 24 Valve CCD network. Now look back at just the 12V cluster way different... Now the 24V cluster... Basically two wires deliver all the data for the cluster. Just looking at the PCM of a 12V you got the grid heater and other stuff that is typically on the ECM of a 24V

So what's the living quarters like?

Geno's Garage https://www.genosgarage.com/product/bf-3963983/gauge-related

Same here. Rough idle for a few moments and heavy knocking then once there is a bit cylinder temperature it smooths right out.

The default tune is available already on the Quadzilla. You can take that and tweak it to your liking.

I've got to say congratulations to you on the many first steps you took and produced a very nice look product.

Originally I post 0.1 VAC would be a fail but under different circumstances, some people were getting issues below that number. So the 0.05 marginal number pops. Basically, if you can test and reach or pass the 0.05 (50 mv AC) I suggest having the alternator bench tested to verify if it bad or not. Because ever truck has different loads during the test and there is no way to accurately load the alternator from test to test so that why I suggest all load off hoping to even out the loads and get a test number we can all play by. 10 to 30 mV (0.01 to 0.03) is a normally good alternator. 50 mV (0.05) is getting marginal bench testing is advised. 100 mV (0.1) is failing. Bench testing is still strongly advised to verify the alternator. Once you fail both your test and then a bench test you can safely say the alternator diodes are done. Now the replaces are here on the site.

The trailer power line is a direct connect lead. No relay and is hot all the time. Will not hurt the trailer there is no way for the grid heaters to pull that kind of load back out of the trailer. The line is fused with 40 amp fuse.

I'm going to have to say something electronic is liking the heat. When the engine is cold the problems start over again. Being there is only the ECM that is the only place I could even think of. See if there is a friend or someone else with a like year truck you can swap ECM for a test.

You'll have to look at the direction the fork is pressed in 6th gear. So if the shaft has enough play it can push the shift collar back out to neutral.

Slack in the bearings will allow the shaft move forward or backwards and kick the shift ring of gear.

Last winter I was seeing MINUS 35*F. Now we are talking grid heater weather at least two cycles.

These trucks will start down to 32*F in the morning without grid heaters. Heck my summer time morning temps are in the 50s.

In a nutshell the fooler will stop the pre start grid heaters but does not stop the post grid heaters. Disconnecting is the best bet. I disconnect at April and hook up again in October.

Not a bad idea... I would measure out the PEX and stuff 14/4 trailer wire in the PEX first then run it through the frame with the bed off. Of course do this on the drivers side away from the hot exhaust.

I wouldn't make a run all the way to the front again for just battery power being there is a 10 AWG line already back there for the trailer power. It's got a 40 AMP fuse already too. So my reverse light are on a relay tucked in the left side tail light. Powered by the trailer power feed. Triggered by the reverse light lead. Now your wiring is much simpler and less voltage loss from making a long run.

You might look at my mod... Two 100 watt aircraft landing lights. Then I tapped in the reverse switch so that light are automatically on with reverse or manual on a switch.