Mopar1973Man

Not me... I'm not selling... Should of said that I'm selling my truck to buy a Ford 6.0L.

Yes this part is a APPS issue. Typically from people attempting to adjust the voltage of the APPS sensor for lockup issues. Once you get a Timbo's there is no more voltage adjustment issue it more of an angle measurement. It's completely mechanical APPS sensor and no logic circuits for the IVS switches. Here are the stock APPS... Here is all the logic circuit for the IVSwhich requires proper voltage setup for it to work correctly. Lock up issues typically stem from AC noise issues, bad ground on the passenger battery, bad speed sensor in the tail shaft...

I wish I had the money to do that. I'm sure every truck will be slightly different.

Possible. Just clamp off the wastegate hose and see if it changes.

Turbo output elbow o-ring Intercooler boots Intercooler Intake horn and grid heater Intake bolts missing or loose Intake gasket blown O-rings on IAT and MAP sensors Not the way it suppose to be done. It suppose to be attached to the mouth of the turbo.

First off... Not true... I've running the same setup with no problem towing much much more weight. Exhaust brake has ZERO impact on the EGT's. I'm also running the same turbo and +75HP Injectors (7x0.0085). What sublevel? Classic signs of boost leak... Need to build a turbo cap and pressure test the system and check your boost for leaks or cuts. You could of saved a bunch of effort and money and just grabbed a live data tool and monitor the sensor values before changing. In all the years of working on these trucks its extremely rare to hear of anyone replacing the IAT sensor. +75 HP injectors, Quadzilla Adrenaline, HX35 turbo, 3" exhaust. Climbing 7-9% grades no issues at all with EGT's. That's only 10,000 pound of hay excluding the trailer. Since then I've upgrade turbos, kept the exhaust brake and upgraded to 4" exhaust. ZERO Impact on EGT's.

Yeah but if the coolant was already corrosive in nature it very well could have eaten a head gasket sitting for 20 years. A lot of people assume that coolant will last forever sitting in parked vehicle. Might protect against freeze up but the corrosive nature could give it all the time in the world during storage to do it's dirty deed. Scale buildup is a sure sign that coolant was corrosive not to mention the leaks.

I've got to ask how are you testing the AC noise at the back of the alternator or at the batteries? Also what brand of meter are you using? What setting are you using on the meter to do the testing? Just seems odd you've got the hunting problem but no AC noise... APPS sensor will not cause hunting issues. I would consider a Timbo's APPS before another Mopar or stock APPS sensor again.

Need to answer Wild & Free's questions. I'm going to also lean towards head gaskets. 3 miles is nothing for distance and shouldn't be pushing coolant out that fast. Apparently getting pressure from somewhere.

You can see the snubber on the end of the needle valve...

Slightly early... Typically I'm winterizing at about October 20th. This year we are seeing 35*F mornings at September 24th... It should warm up this week but for how long who knows...

White Water Wilderness Ranch looking towards Seven Devils Mountain Range... Winter is coming...

If anyone needs Smarty support there is Smarty Resource which is providing the same support as well. Smarty Resource is also vendor here on the site as well. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/152-bbi-injectors-smarty-resource/

Double check your wire tap. You should be able to push over 35 PSI. I would steepen the fuel table more start out at about 105% and using a exponential calculator use a growth rate of about 3 to 3.5% that should get just enough lag to light the turbo and then pour on the fuel. I'm running slightly more with +75 HP (7x0.0085) injectors and HX35/40 turbo I can just about light the tires up without tapping the pump. But you do have more weight. I've got to ask also are you running oversized tires possibly? This will make a huge impact on gearing and will make the truck struggle to pull the weight.

Another idea. Leave the valve alone and pick up a snubber from ISSPro and install it after the valve. This way you can still shut the line down and the snubber does the job of the cracking the needle valve. 3 years now and ZERO issues on ISSPro electric gauge.

No problem I ran the Edge Comp against the MPG mode for several years. What it will do is fool the IAT to a summer like temperature. The ECM and Edge Tuner will adjust timing as usual for those summer temps. This will be more RETARDED than typical winter timing. Cold air tend to promote some very advanced timing which is counter productive for MPG's.

1600 bar is 23,206.04 PSI which happens to be close to the same as a common rail engine.

Many, many year ago as a kid. Don't remember much.

@jlbayes would be a good guy to talk to about this.

Might got over to SmartyResource.com and ask about getting a new Smarty and having it unlocked. Ask for Brian over there.

Nope... No issues at all. The only thing you might look into testing is the impact against your tune using the MPG mode. All it does is raise the IAT temperature and retard the timing back in the winter time to promote better MPG's.

Marginally high. It will work yet but randomly cause issues. My last alternator was right there floating the 0.04 to 0.05 realm and create a random surge in the cruise control. Remember I'm a manual with fly by wire cruise so instead of the torque converter issues like a automatic has I get the cruise control issues.

Absolutely... That is one of the ways to enable the high idle like I've done with my truck years ago.

Thanks for the review of the product. This will help other potential buyers.

@jimmy97458 Could I get you to put your review in the store?