Mopar1973Man

Missing a step... On ScanGauge & Dash Command when you do the fillup process it will display what fuel you burn and then you change the offset to match the gallons pumped. It automagically does the math for you so no calculations required. Now just hit done and everything is calibrated.

Hmmm... At least Dodge wise I would remove the rotor and axle bearing then pull the shaft out. Now remove the two nuts holding the knuckle. Typically I take a small sledgehammer and strike the areas near the tapers and then right near the top hit it hard. Then it pops loose. Done this a few times and work rather well. Worse case you make warm the knuckle up some with some heat to break any rust loose. As for the A/C line I'd say just have new ones made up to fit the Cummins. I don't think the chambers are required. I think it was for noise reduction on how the the old GM compressor function.

Opps... Small screen on the phone.. Now at home yeah I screwed up...

Typically I look online then cut a percentage off the price depending on how used the parts are.

Ibe seen a few FASS systems that refuse to prime. Typically pressurized the fuel tank with air and have the line loosen at the VP44 pump. When fuel run out, just tighten the line and start the truck.

Nice looking Dodge... Wild looking Ford mudder...

Voltage difference at the sensor, ground difference, or sensor difference?

I know the ScanGauge II and Dash Command both use a fillup routine to calculate offset amounts.

I sat in the truck and started playing with different things to load the engine. Turn on the A/C on high fan can put nearly a 20 HP load on the truck increasing idle fuel flow at least 0.5 GPH. Stack on the 200w worth of lights and my HID's I can tip 1.0 GPH fuel flow at idle. Then engine temperature will vary the fuel commanded to keep the idle at 800 RPM's. Then if you want to toss high idle 3 CYL and exhaust brake you can push upwards of 9.0 GPH idling at 1,200 RPM's. Too many things to vary idle fuel flow...

I see a flow rate from 0.2 to 1.0 GPH fuel flow or 5% to 18% engine load depending on what is running on the truck and the coolant temperature. So idle fuel usage is very dynamic...

Ummm... I'm also devoid of amenities as well. There are miles and miles in between towns, no cell service and very few parts stores or shops. This is why vehicle inspections are very important. Like myself. I've got a bag behind the front seat. It's got enough food and water, clothing, fire, etc to hold me for 24-48 hours. I've been out in the back country and got stuck with the truck in soft mud. Not fight it and expend a bunch of energy. Just grab the bag and start walking out. I don't waste a bunch of effort on the truck I know it best to find assistance then come back to get the truck freed, fix or towed. Don't rely on 911 or cell service. Like @IBMobile found out when his VP44 failed north of Riggins, ID it took quite awhile to get towed to Riggins and then for me to receive the VP44 and install it. So my bag is based on the worse case that the truck has a major failure and I've got to get to help.

PM sent to not derail your thread...

This is why the IVS (Idle Validation switch) inside the APPS sensor. When the IVS is in IDLE state the APPS value is totally ignored and the ECM idle software kicks in. Then it attempts to hold 800 RPM's using on board software watching tach signal and coolant temperature. Colder the ECT temp the higher the idle. As long as the APPS reports IDLE position then it completely ECM controlled idle.

Hmmm... Broke the mainshaft in the transmission - I continue to drive the truck hauling a second truck to New Meadows. I still had 1st, 2nd and 5th. So Managed to jump from 2nd to 5th and continue to my delivery. So in that case I ask the owner of the other truck to load me up and haul me home nice change out. VP44 failed - I continued to drive it home at about 20-25 MPH stuck in full advance from Riggins, ID. Clutch failed - Just slipping badly continued to drive home gently with the failed clutch. Wheel Bearing failed - Jump on my 911 contact list and started making phone calls to get my truck towed and find a shop to do the work in. All repaired by myself in under 24 hours including towing. 315k miles... The biggest thing is to treat your truck like an airplane. You want to look at everything closely if there are leaks or issues don't wait to fix them. Do it now. Out here truck failure could be deadly. With winter temperatures as low as -30*F and towing company times are 2-3 hours away. Walking in blowing snow storm is dangerous and deadly. What even worse is most the area I live in has ZERO cell service. Typically most of my problems I've spotted before a total failure could occur. This is why my list of failures is so small. Also I WILL NOT carry large amounts of tools and parts. As you see most of this stuff that failed you couldn't fix on the road side.

Anti-stall only functions when the TPS IVS shows IDLE position. If there is any applied throttle the anti-stall is disabled. So in my case launching up a steep grade using throttle its possible to stall the truck because anti-stall is disabled. Leave my foot off the throttle (IVS = IDLE) now anti-stall will kick in and prevent stalling. So the whole slow cruising in a parking lot is not anti-stall but the Quadzilla doing something strange to the fuel signal. All I've got to do is turn to level ZERO this problem goes away. Which this is annoying that drive for 2 hours on the highway is fine to get to the city to turn the Quadzilla OFF to prevent low throttle issues. Now as for my previous lope issue I went back through and did re-do on my valve lash and found a few valve a bit tighter than I like. I also returned to the standard 0.010 and 0.020 values. 95-99% of the lopey idle and lopey low throttle is gone now. Very very faint and rare to see now.

Waste of money IMHO... When you consider @cajflynn was doing 20k oil changes (Chevron Delo 15w-40 and Fleetguard filters) and put 1.3 million miles on a Cummins. I'm doing 7 to 9k oil changes now which is about every other month. Then you consider @dorkweed went 84k miles on a single oil change with Supertech 15w-40 and just filter changes. (Main and bypass - MotorGuard). Might want to talk to Dorkweed and Cajflynn... Running @MoparMom dialysis in Ontario, OR so 250 per round trip every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Which makes a minimum of 750 miles a week, 3,000 miles a month if I don't drive anywhere else. Currently heading for 316k miles and ticking...

Being you are attempting to spray from a pressurized injector into a pressurized cylinder (boost plus compression) I'm going to bet that it does not flow the same in the engine versus the test stand. Being there is no compression pressure during the time of the test stand. Thank you AH64ID made me think it out just a bit more.

Ok... Talk to @TFaoro and @jlbayes they would know.

I know for Common Rail Injectors they measure the amount of fuel over time. I'm pretty sure all injector builders can do it but most don't.

I would also say the stroke will be a constant being you need XX amount of HP/TQ to roll the truck. Regardless of the size of the nozzles. So larger nozzles just means YY mm3 of fuel is injected quicker.

The only idea I've got is that to talk to a machinist and see what he's got to say.

My tank strap is also clamped under the carrier bearing. I've got to drop the carrier bearing to get mine loose. I've only pulled my fuel tank twice in the life of the truck. Once for the Draw straw install and the second time to replace the fuel sending unit.

Now that I thought a moment. I done a VP44 replacement for a local gent. The truck sat for over 1 year and the batteries disconnected for the whole time. When I hook the batteries up after the replacement the error codes were still present. So I know that ECM / PCM wise the information will never be lost due to lack of power. I'm going to bet that you made a better connection on the batteries that dealt with the issue.

time to make a boost leak cap and pressurize the system and look for the leak. I've had a manifold bolt blow out and hit the hood once. That was enough to drop the boost to nearly nothing.

Be careful with the frame mounted pump. Coming home from a fire late at night I must of caught a rock in the road in the dark. Needless to say the tire flipped the rock up and hit the frame rail and made a hell of a thump. Left a mark where the rock hit the frame. I'm glad my pump wasn't mounted on the frame because I would of be dead in the road with missing filters.