Mopar1973Man

Nice... 420k miles on the OEM steering box and power steering pump. Well, you've got me beat then. I still got you beat on the tie rod ends. A Little secret I'll let out I've got a true grease needle and re-fill the tie rod boots with grease when they get low.

Really easy to provide the numbers. Set your cruise for 1,500 RPM take note of the timing on flat ground. Then increase RPM's for each number on flat ground. This should be done a low engine load measurement. More or less as a cruise state. Then you can build backwards from a cruise state to performance state by subtracting 2 or 3 degrees from those values. The problem is automatics have to be locked up to get these number where a manual I can do it easily. So did you mail that CANBus splitter cable? I'll be glad to measure out the Edge Comp and get some solid numbers.

So coming up on a birthday for my truck in October heading to 16 years of ownership and currently standing with 315k just about to roll up on the odometer. I'm still running the factory steering box and power steering pump. To this day the steering box is still tight and leak free. I've adjusted the over center adjustment a few times but still the steering box is working just the way it did when I bought the truck brand new in October of 2002 and it had only 43 miles on the clock when I test drove it. My truck has seen a lot of rough roads and dirt roads, off-road 4WD travels so, there is no pavement princess here. Now I have to admit the since I've never run an over sized tires on my truck has a lot of to do with this fact. Not to mention when I swapped out the 265's for the 235's gave me a huge edge of going further on the factory steering parts. Like to this day I've still got my OEM tie rod ends and never changed them yet. Still tight and no issues. Never done a lift kit or leveling kit that destroys the geometry of the front end. Currently running factory 2nd Gen wheels 16x7 chrome wheels with the 235's. The only things that have been changed have been one track bar and one set of ball joints. That's all... This is posted to give a point of reference to getting the most out of the Dodge Steering and it can be done.

Now provide the whole map for both... Aways get just one number... 1,500 - 2,000 - 2,500 - 3,000 - Max

I've ran both the Edge Comp and Quadzilla Adrenaline tuners. I would have to say the Edge Comp is the easiest tuner out that that does boost fooling. Where Quadzilla Adrenaline is the most advanced tuner. Not knowing what turbo you have HY35 is rated to about 30-32 PSI because of its 9cm2 exhaust housing where the HX35 is a 12cm2 exhaust housing and can run as high as 35 PSI without much issue. I've got a HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12) now and seen as high as 43 PSI with the Quadzilla and +75 HP injectors (7x0.0085). Just about to turn 315k miles.

Timing is a completely custom table. 2D vs 3D as Smarty handles. So the base table would be the performance timing and the cruise timing is stacked on top. There are other variables that give the 2D of Quadzilla a bit more 3D like the Fuel Load timing. Now fuel wise its using the ECM as a base table. So basically multiply percentage to the fuel number then the result is fed to the VP44. Fueling wise I've got that figured out rather well and can produce tunes that are nearly smoke free. Its the timing values and knowing how far to advance the timing. I've been wanting to see what other tuners have for timing maps to have at least a base line value of normal can tunes are like. Right now I did find the Quadzilla Default values and trying them out with a slight tweak. Now this all being said... I'm not in this for racing. But MPG and economy. A lot of time spent with cruise set at 65 MPH and letting the truck roll. So now that being said how much timing is required for cruise optimally?

Just replace the gasket. Only replace the cooler if it looks pitted or damaged. Oil coolers might be a bit spendy...

Doesn't connect to the MAP sensor at all. Connects to the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) and the IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensors.

The ones I got are clear.

Trying to wrap my head around what you are saying. According to your sig info your running BBI Stage 1 injectors. I understand you are flowing more fuel for your duration time. Here is someone with CR experience and difference of the fuel system and performance module makes it tough... Arrgh... I wish there was a better way to explaining the whole tuning process. More to level of Common Joe without Dyno use. I'm still trying to figure out how to spot optimal tuning using live data from the OBDII port. I even considered jump on the UDC just to try it but after firing up the software and looking at the level of confusion I returned the Smarty and gave up on that idea till I can get the tuning figured out on something simple like Quadzilla.

Should be close to the coolant temperature typically.

Oil cooler is into the coolant jacket right there. So the oil cooler could be leaking.

I'm sure someone has done that upgrade. I've done the old school draw straw. Still to this day no issues 12 years later.

Then you better haggle that out with @JAG1 being he wants to buy them too.

You were right I did a bit of searching...

Myself I would just still carry concealed. They have to find it first and yes I'm willing to take that risk too. It's not like I'm out to make trouble but to just insure my protection. Does this mean breaking some rules? YES. Like currently I travel in and out of Oregon all the time conceal carry or open carry. Does it worry me? NO. Will I continue to do so? YES. Every Day I'm taking MoparMom to Dialysis I cross into Oregon with my firearm and never had an issue as of yet. The only time my firearm leaves my side is to enter the medical clinics beyond that I've always got my firearm on me. To this day I've never be bothered to present my conceal carry permit nor has any peace office ever asked me about my weapon. Typically I get a "Thank You" for being an American and carrying a weapon.

Light pattern was still too narrow. Even with 4 bulbs burning still the light wasn't where it needed to be. So after seeing a friend Morimoto I bailed out of the sport headlights idea and went after the HIDs.

Can you explain why? I'm curious why you would drop the pilot injection go only with single injection event.

No longer... Gave up went to Morimoto HIDs.

I've seen the bottom 5 inches of my radiator caked shut from mud. The only way you can clean that out is to pull the radiator out and clean it with a garden hose or power washer.

So far I've been liking the 4" Diamond Eye Muffled exhaust. Very Very quiet. Even the exhaust brake is quiet you do hear the hiss but it toned down. I hear more turbine noise than exhaust noise now. Acceleration is improved over the 3" inch exhaust. Still after a week of driving back and forth to Ontario, OR there is ZERO change in EGT's still running 600*F at 65 MPH like my 3" exhaust did. I'm going to check over my MPG and hand math and see if there is any gains.

Best to test as close to the alternator as possible. Like a stud on the alternator case that is clean and bare metal would be best.

I'll even jump in here and repost a current photo of myself...

Learned something myself. If you creating fueling curves using exponential growth calculator like I do 4% is too steep and makes the acceleration feel notchy. About 2-3% is about the steepest you want to use. http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/math/exponential-growth-calculator.htm

Just my OBDLink LX sees CR rail pressures looking at several stock trucks I've seen in the range of 16,000 to 18,000 PSI typically. As for the VP44 injection I know we have to reach over 310 bar to just pop the injectors. Your right. We've got to pump each line to over 310 bar to get spray. CR I've seen roughly 5,000 PSI at idle (IIRC) which is about 344 bar. Like my current injectors are popped at 308 (4467.16 PSI) to 312 bar (4525.18 PSI). As for VP44 trucks I know the starting point but as for high point... That's unknown to me... 155 Bar = 2248.08 PSI 150 Bar = 2175.57 PSI