Mopar1973Man

I also agree that you need to have the alternator tested for excessive AC noise.

I did the 150 series for pressure stability. When you do the math backwards figuring for 70% flow rate and max injected flow rate 20 GPH that 100 AirDog will start dropping pressure on hard pulls up grades or WOT. With 150 series I idle at 17 PSI and WOT runs drops to 15 PSI. Still keeping 1 PSI above the 14 limit of the overflow valve.

It not going to work... Stock replacement pump don't have the volume and don't deal with the restrictive fuel system problems so it will fail again. Matter of fact it fail right after you start it up because the fuel pressure will fall below 14 PSI on the first WOT run. The only way I found years ago to make it work is replace all the fuel lines from the tank to the VP44 with 1/2" lines and move the stock lift pump to the frame rail near the fuel tank now it will barely make it. It will drop to low of 12 PSI on WOT stand but your cruise PSI will stay above 14 PSI. So for all the customizing and hunting for the plumbing, electric and custom mounting the pump you be better off getting AirDog or FASS and being done and not having to worry about lift pump issues. Yes. I've been there. It doesn't work. The lift pumps still fail rather quickly because they are not designed for the volume requirements of the engine. Even the new AirTex pumps aren't that good either. So in net results... 2006 I bought a AirDog 150 so my AirDog 150 is 11 years old and travelled about 250k miles and never failed once. Fuel pressure has been rock solid at 15-17 PSI for 11 years. My second VP44 lasted 243k miles when it failed.

Now that is a different story. If the system is open for an extended period of time. This is a new issue. Depending on condition and how long its left open to the elements. So if someone broke open the system and left it for days now even I would be worried about debris and other issues. But during the time of servicing HVAC system for o-ring or heater core. Just cap the ends and proceed. No different than how the accumulator is shipped to you from a parts store. In the time to service, an o-ring is not an issue. If you're replacing a compressor you going to be replacing an accumulator and orifice anyway for warranty. Service a heater core. Plug your tube ends and proceed as typically and place a vacuum on the system and reuse the accumulator.

So during the time you open the new accumulator to the atmosphere to install its no different, you might as well throw that one away too using that logic. This why the vacuum is placed on the system so the desiccant is renewed and dried out. So now if you look up the boiling point of water in a vacuum you see the water will boil at below 100*F. Technical the only way to install the new accumulator without moisture ever getting to the desiccant is to have the manufactured produce he accumulator unit in a vacuum and seal the unit in a vacuum chamber for shipping. Now load the truck up in an air tight chamber and pull a vacuum on the entire truck and then install the new unit inside this vacuum chamber. Far fetched?! Sure... A/C work if it was this critical we all be paying through the nose and most of us wouldn't have A/C today because it would be too expensive. Again this is scare tactics. Accumulator desiccant can be renewed simply by a vacuum. Yes, warranties REQUIRE the replacement of the orifice tube and the accumlator for compressor replacement. If you open the system to replace o-ring you do not have to replace the orifice tube and accumulator again. Again all you have to do is pull a strong vacuum (>27 inHg) on the system for an extended period of time to renew the desiccant. Now with black death that is a totally different story. Black death is when a compressor is ground up and pumped through the system. This REQUIRED a full replacement of orifice tube and accumulator this is to ensure no debris damages the new compressor. Some manufacturers require the condenser to be replaced because of the possibility of debris being caught up in the tubing of the condenser. Black death is a PITA no matter how you look at it either it's expensive to replace everything or attempting to flush out the system with A/C flush solvent which is expensive.

Warranty or black death... That's is the only reasons.

You have to remember every time the fuel pressure is below 14 PSI the overflow valve is CLOSED. This means all the cooling and lubing fuel that normally would be there is gone. So typically the P0216 code is not just because the VP44 doesn't have the pressure to move the timing piston (rare). Sad part is most likely the timing piston is seized in place and no longer can move properly. You can see part of the seized area on this timing piston. A matter of fact it required heating the body of the VP44 with a propane torch and a pair of needle nose pliers to pull it out.

My bad I was looking at air flow.

Still this where I don't get it. You are claiming your HP number and comparing to these other engine specs as a guideline for exhaust flow. (around 900 cfm roughly speaking) Ok... I got that... But now when I look up the muffler you plan on running it capable flow rate 1431 to 3100 cfm (at 1-3" Hg backpressure). I just can't see you getting that attenuation out of that muffler being when you read the section on back pressure. So you increase the tube size inside the muffler area backpressure will be nil. Out of the 3 types, I'm assuming the 3rd is the truest that you are going after. Because the first two types won't work because of the oversized tube inside the muffler. But as you see the second picture showing higher back pressure give better attenuation but in your case there is going be very little if any. So this is where my confusion is.

First off if you do get ahold of them find out the source of where they get them at. Then check my list in the article section to see if they are certified Bosch rebuilder of VP44s. Too many people claim to be rebuilders but don't carry the Baosch 815 Test stand for calibration of the PSG unit on the VP44. It takes about 3 hours of run time on the Bosch 815 test stand to get the PSG flashed. Yes you could rebuild pumps without flashing which a lot of shops sell rebuilt VP44's with used PSG's which is a gamble.

Still don't understand how 5" muffler is going to work on 4" pipe. Seems rather weird. I figured you would step up ot 5" pipe keeping the flow up and then using 5" muffler. Still trying to wrap my head around what I read on Donalson catalog and what you are saying. If this flow and attenuation was an issue wouldn't more manufactures of performance exhaust being doing what you saying? So could you point out the pages and what you're doing so I can see how this works?

Still, after reviewing the Donaldson catalog it seems backward to me that using a larger ID muffler to attempt to make quieter? Explain how your theory works?

Why? So if I opened every joint and installed o-rings you would change the accumalator? I wouldn't. No sense in it. When you place a vacuum on the accumulator you automatically reconditioning the drier as the vacuum is pulling the moisture out of the drier in the accumulator.

Here is where business and private person draw lines in the sand. Business folks have to play by the rule book and do it the "Right Way". Then there is the "Common Joe" that don't have access to a bunch of fancy tools and machines most here have at least the manifold gauge set and vacuum pump either electric or air driven. Technically to be absolutely perfect about it yes the business side would be right. Since the Common Joe doesn't have the funds or the tools then most times out of ten Common Joe takes a few shortcuts that might cause problems but if they take the extra time you can get away with it. Using compress air from a compressor that is drained and not been running in awhile should be safe. You'll need to run vacuum longer to draw any moisture out. Still in all any new accumulator, you open the ends up to the atmosphere is no different that using compress air as same just compressed.

Puzzled? How can a straight flow through muffler be restrictive? Like even the old NAPA muffler I ran was just a straight pipe muffler 3" in and 3" out and see straight thru.

Ive got my exhaust system tonight. From Source Automotive. 4 inch muffled diamond eye.

Url issue. Yeah I know about it.

I just had another update to my Android 7.0 software this morning ill continue to montior this. Last few time has been mixed bag. Tell Quadzilla to connect 5 to 7 times attempting to hook up. Other times just fire it up and it works.

You can use compressed air for testing but you'll need to pull vacuum for more time to ensure the system is truly dry again. As for leak checking vacuum test is kind of flawed. Like in my last job the system held vacuum fine. Leaked badly. Vacuum test passed becaused it sucked a bug in the hole of the condenser and blew off after Freon was added. Do not attempt to run the compressor with compressed air.

Latest update is in the download area. There is no reason for downing previous version being the most likely dont work.

Not that I know of. It based on RPM and light throttle. That's the best I can give you. I know if I drive with heavy foot you don't notice it. Now if you being mellow cruising parking lots then it pop up. Most commonly in small town speed limits down 25 MPH or following tractors on the highway.

Yes. Gear doesn't matter nor speed just the light throttle in that RPM range. As soon as you start gaining RPM at light throttle or mash into the throttle the miss is gone.

Something about the Quadzilla not following the fueling table or the ECM isn't releasing fully? It's a very random miss and disappears as the TPS and RPM rise. The starting edge of the Quadzilla data is like very dirty or something.

Like myself, I've got an escape plan too. There is a bag behind my driver seat that is filled with everything to keep you alive for at least 1 day for two people. As for at home I'm stocked up on fuel, water, RV typically is keep stocked through the summer and ready. There is the guest house but that's a trainwreck now. Still there is plenty of supplies here to keep us alive for days, weeks, months if needed. Even gone as far as having canned powered items like powdered eggs, butter, milk, cheese, etc.

I've never lost any parts off my truck maybe that ol' broke down Ford Powerstroke that farmer Joe owns... I know you mistaken my truck it never throws parts... (Knock on wood - banging on JAG1 head!)