Mopar1973Man

Most likely so... Not enough sleep or coffee this morning. You'll see I was up late last night posting... It's installed... With a muffler... It so damn quiet now you have to get out and walk to the passenger side rear to even hear the exhaust. In the cab you can't hear any exhaust noise at all. You have to roll down the windows you might hear it a little bit at low speed and heavy throttle by the time you get to highway speeds you can't hear it at all. Just all wind noise. I hear more noise from the BHAF than the exhaust now. @AH64ID just for information value. The Diamond Eye muffler is a straight through design with just holes in the internal tube. Now you can see clearly there is a packing all the way down and no baffles. So it's an Absorptive Silencing muffler.

A lot of people get over zealous when cleaning grounds. They start to grind or sand off all the paint around a ground lug attempting to get bare metal contact of the ground lead to body or block metal. Be aware this bare metal now will rust quickly. The only thing is make sure that the screw is cutting into fresh metal or the stud is clean and rust free. No need in sanding off large patches around the lugs.

I got every thing now in the shop. I've laid out the exhaust system on the floor and looked at the over all size it's long that is for sure. Hopefully I get my shot today to install in my truck. Diamond Eye 4" Exhaust Aluminized with both muffler and delete pipe so I can either way. Now after asking about the Aluminized vs Stainless after talking to 3 different vendors, there is nothing to gain really by stainless. Aluminized last this long on my truck at 15 years. Stainless and Aluminized will both go the same distance as well. Now there is the 409 (IIRC) which guys buy because they can polish the stainless up like chrome nearly. The other thing I found out that Diamond Eye has the thicker gauge pipe at 16 gauge compared to MBRP at 14 gauge. Diamond Eye should last longer being it is bit thicker gauge pipe but also might affect when the drone occurs.

Be surprised... Pull that radiator out I bet the bottom edge is getting rather nasty. My truck will be due for this again soon to pull the radiator out and power wash the face off again. Even though I don't get the oil I do get the caked mud. Between being on the local dirt roads in the winter time and just splashing the mud on the radiator and the heat of the coolant drying the mud in place. Just like @Taz found out on his truck the radiator was pack on the lower edge with nothing but caked mud from the offroad travels he does into the back country.

Mor or less this was one of those rush jobs. Owner needed the bus to head to Boise by the next day. There was still pressure in the system so instead of pull the last bit of freon out to place a vacuum on it. Just run with it. I'm pretty sure will re-visit this issue again being there is most likely a leak in the system. There isn't any backup system. The owner bought the bus from down in LA California. His plan is to convert it into a RV. At the current time its half way there. He has the on board restroom now that is functional. Pulled a few rows a seats and installed a propane stove. Then turned 2 sets of seats around and installed an RV style tables. Another area pulled a few rows out again and put a hide-a-bed couch. Kind of rough but its do-able for now. So since he had to be in Boise by the next it was understood that it was unknown how long the freon would last being there is no current history of the A/C system. The other problem is there is no way to get any ventilation while driving if the A/C fails. None of the windows open, the driver has a very small slider window but that's it. Felt sorry for him when he drove from Riggins to my place 15 miles and was dripping sweat and it was over 90*F inside and no way to get a cool breeze from outside.

Sounds like an ECM failure. Can read codes?

Biggest thing is the injectors which can be rather spend at 3,000 to 4,000 dollars to replace. On the 6.7 its the EGR system that is huge problem. The amount for carbon build up is something you have to keep up with. VGT turbo and it's failures.

And the results are???

Like majority of Idaho is not a smog state but some counties are so check with you local DMV they should know.

Funny part is the smoother the tread pattern the better it scores for rolling resistance. Hence why racing slicks are completely smooth faced. Least amount of rolling resistance. More aggressive the tread pattern the lower the score.

Too old... This is an old 3 piston compressor with twin drive belts.

Blue smoke at start up is possibly valve seals leaking. Typical injector failure could be all kinds of things. Miss at idle, surge or lope idle, maybe none the above. Ive got my OEM injectors which run fine, idle fine, no surge or lope. On the pop tester they are popping at 240 to 260 bar. New injector should be 310 bar. For sure bet either send them to be pop tested or replace them.

No... Still had 15 PSI standing pressure.

There is a little trick I learned. Orange Degreaser from Home Depot will make silicone boots really slick. Once they dry it glued in place. I really got to fight to get them off. I've done this on a few Ford diesels with issues and never blown back off.

I would have to say to try kicking the Light Throttle timing up to 30-35% see if the extra timing helps burn that fuel more. Maybe kick the Timing reduct Scaling downwards to 50-75% to keep it from pulling timing away. With those big injectors, you are going to need the timing to burn the fuel completely. 6x0.013 is some big injectors so the atomization is going be bigger droplets requiring more timing to light it off. The only thing I can think of is in 5th your RPM's are too low and timing is dropping. When you drop to 4th you are getting the timing rise and drive pressure and building a bit more boost getting the cylinder pressures up to ignite the fuel better. To get the smoke cleared up I would start to inch up the timing a bit by keeping the cruise timing more or cut the timing reduct amount. Just got to be careful with timing while towing the cylinder pressure will rise more.

Really easy... The owner walked into Autozone and bought 30# R134a... No questions asked, I might go this route in the future if I can find a digital scale that is battery pound that is fairly accurate. http://www.autozone.com/a-c-charging-and-refrigerant-freon/r134a-refrigerant/r134a-refrigerant-r-134a-refrigerant-30-lbs-cylinder-not-for-hybrid-vehicles-with-electrical-driven-compressors/72022_0_0 Basically that is 6.66 a pound for that 30#... Pretty cheap compared to the 12 ozs can I buy locally for 10.99.

Should see my current setup with a Cellphone stand hooked to the passenger seat and using my cellphone for MP3 music, iQuad app, and OBDLink App.

That's not good. Wait til you get a sharp object shoved up between both tires and have a double flat. It could be as simple as a small stone. Rather common failure out here. The puppies do this mod and then attempt to go up in the back country for firewood. Typically find them coming home on 3 wheels in the rear. Even worse they don't have a matching spare to what is installed. There is a reason for the gap between the wheel if the rub or touch this is trouble waiting to happen.

Common DTC Codes: P1751 Throttle Valve Maximum Range P1753 Throttle Valve Mechanical Performance Throttle valve module in the transmission is having issues.

No. Leaks searched for... The owner wanted the A/C to be charged and he understood the possible failures too.

Another Cummins with a plugged radiator. Funny part was the front was plugged with mud. The fan side was plugged with oil from the breather. The radiator needed a good rinsing the hit with purple degreaser and soak a bit then rinse it off. It looked nearly new afterward. I yanked the old breather bottle off and install a Mopar1973Man Crankcase vent.

Yeap... That's a Trailway Bus. A local gent bought the bus and slowly converting the bus over to a RV. He has a trip to do tomorrow so he really wanted to get the A/C recharged. It only took about 25 to 26 pounds of R134a to recharge it. The sad part was it was slow to take in the freon only about 2.5 hours to charge it up. Seems I get all the good one to do right?

If you're going to do metric gauges might as well do the full deal. I would just make a setting that is american or metric and just toggle. Then all the plugin modules will display metric or american.

I say do it for them too. It's nice to see where it's at during the process of updating the module.

Here you go... This will do the job for ya. https://www.amazon.com/F2C-Vacuum-Refrigeration-Manifold-Gauge/dp/B01AAB2YDY/ref=sr_1_7?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1504273145&sr=1-7&keywords=vacuum+pump+r134a