Mopar1973Man

Like most of you know, I don't have TV here at home. I do have a TV in the RV and watch local channels when we have a signal. What is so sickening is the important news or information is briefly covered and then quickly switch to some sort of entertainment that the newsgroup wants to place like cooking or exercise. I'm so glad to get home and not have any TV at all. Then other half of it that I can't stand is any free air TV signal you do get is nothing but black and white shows and 1960-1970's shows. Really? This is the best you can transmit? Stranger yet, I get more facts and information from you guys here than I do off any TV set...

Personally skip the brace and readjust the steering box to take up any slack. Double check all your steering linkage for slop this includes both input steering shaft and tie rods.

Typically it's an alternator issue or tail shaft speed sensor either or... I will not suggest Band-Aids. I will suggest you have you alternator bench tested.

Easier when the pressure motor is unhooked. Even better yet it better to have the turbo removed before you do this. Much easier to work on them.

You should have both ends of the wire unplugged and check ohms to ground this will show if there is a connection to ground from a pinched wire or bare wire.

Pressurize the turbo will air pressure and see if the arm moves at about 20 PSI. You can raise the pressure up to 30-35 PSI if still no movement then its rusted shut.

Did you by chance have the injectors pop tested to see if the pop pressures are near 310 bar? As injectors wear the pop pressure will fall and the timing tends to get more advanced and spray pattern get crappy. As for the EGT's I still say it going to be a boost leak issue. Another thing it could be is drive pressure leak or exhaust leak before the turbo look for soot marks on the manifold top and bottom for cracks or blown gaskets.

Remember that is commanded timing, not actual timing. So if the VP44 is slow to get there or not quite all the way there you'll never know. When my VP44 failed it was stuck in full advance and iQuad still showed the standard timing number even though the pump was stuck in full advancement and running in limp mode and P0216 code.

On the Quadzilla it would of trip the warning light for fuel temp. The 160*F temperature is the factory setting for the Quadzilla but the actual fuel temp error doesn't happen much higher...

Sometimes wonder about peoples fuel systems. Why am I the lucky one with only a 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT? This is verified with two different gauges too.

That's the thing that is weird about fuel pressure I've had some report blown front seals at as low as 28 PSI and seen others get away with 40 PSI and more to the VP44. I still do not suggest anything above 20 PSI. Because you only going to get so much to flow out the return hole if you look its rather small.

High I remember seeing is 120-130*F realm for fuel temps. I might see 140*F after being parked awhile and just key on and hook up the Quadzilla. I'm not returning to the fuel basket for the AirDog 150 but I am returning to the sender basket for the VP44 and the return rail. I draw out of the center of the tank with an old school draw straw.

The internal vane pump does increase pressure internally to the VP44 but at the same token you take the risk of blowing the front seal out of the VP44 dumping diesel fuel in the crankcase. Matter of fact I just talked to a guy yesterday about that and he admitted that had a partial blockage of the FASS return line and fuel pressure went to 32 PSI and at that point blew the front seal of the VP44 out.

No. Blue Chip even proved that fuel pressures down to 5 PSI will not affect horsepower production on a dyno. I will say that anything below 14 PSI is affecting the longevity of the VP44. Correct...

Along with the other stuff that prevented you from coming to the "Eclipse" event?

Absolutely. Most all people the convert to P-pumps are in the performance crowd looking for bigger power than the VP44 can produce. This typically comes at a price of reduced MPG's. A lot of people do the conversion to try and rid the electronics but end up reducing MPG and giving up on the truck and selling it. I've run into several people like this which did the conversion for the wrong reasons end up selling the truck because it was no longer a good daily driver or reliable. There are other things like on my truck with fly by wire cruise control you would lose the cruise control function completely. So if you do convert you have to remember there is a lot of weird details that will pop up because of the VP44 being missing.

Make sure you doing the P-pump conversion for the right reasons. I would highly suggest the conversion for racing and performance reason but not as a daily driver reason.

Ditto...

The biggest weakness to 3rd and 4th gen trucks both is the injectors. After about 100k miles you need to replace them working or not. Beyond that your on borrowed time. The other thing that impacts the lifespan of the injectors is the filtration of the fuel. If you're using a high-quality fuel filter and true 2 micron filters and then double stack them you have a better chance of extending the lifespan of the injectors. Most folks just run the stock filter and the 10-micron filter and end up eating injectors rather quickly. Still in all injectors are highly expensive in the $3,000 to $5,000 a set price. Get too cheap and you might end up with poor quality rebuilds than might not last long. There are few true BRAND NEW injectors out there. I know BBI is an injector manufacture that sells new injectors for sure.

0.2 volts or less...

Thank you for that bit of information.

Here is the part numbers at least...

Added the link in his post for ya..

I was so happy with the winter performance of the Hankook ATm tires I bought a second set for the truck for this winter.

Why not?