Mopar1973Man

Typically no. MPG might rise 1-2 MPG. Notably, the engine rattle and noise is reduced.

I need to bring this up to @Quadzilla Power ... The user interface is needing some clean up. Vehicle Selection - Way too many Dodge versions floating in the vehicle selection. I've seen several times where people are asking which version do I use to get X new function. This needs to be cleaned up. Just in V2 there is 2.2, 2.4, 2.5 and 2.7... The vehicle listing should be separated Chevy, Ford, and Dodge. Then the versions of code V1 needs its own category then V2 in its own category. This will reduce the amount of problem for newbies and know what to pick. Any BETA version should be listed in a separate category. Menu Icon - Menu icon size never got resolved even with a newer phone switch from LG G3 to LG G5 its still tiny icon. With my phone case on its even more difficult to get the menu to pop up. Hidden timing feature - This needs to be changed up as well. I noticed that @Me78569 added a stock offset feature only if the other settings are set to ZERO. This will go unnoticed by many people. I highly suggest you add a toggle or switch to change the parameters on the screen so it's more user-friendly.

I vote for @IBMobile version it's the best DIY setup I've seen ever.

Be warned all ECM today are remanufactured there is no longer any new ECMs...

Then to double check remove the alternator and have it bench tested. That will double verify.

Double check your TV cable adjustment. If it not set correctly it will change the shift point vs throttle position. The TV (Throttle Valve) controls the amount of pressure in the valve body for the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear shifts. Typically the TV cable should be set so both the throttle arm and the TV arm move together at the same time and hit WOT position together. Some people will take up excessive amount of slack so the TV actually hits WOT sooner this should cause the transmission to hold a lower gear longer. So visa-versa is true too excess slack in the cable will cause early shifting and possible lugging.

Your Swepco 711 seems to be the same as Mobil 50 SAE. You might look at Swepco 202 the only thing is I can't tell if it's a GL-4 lube. I only need 40k miles to reach 100k miles on Mobil 50 trans fluid. So far no issues for me at all.

This is correct for CAD axles. Non-CAD axles have the swtich on the transfer case lever. So is 2-3 shift. It's also based on the TV cable adjustment. The 3-4 shift is all electronic...

Exactly. Like the way I teat for the problem is light touch the throttle. The last flash has my truck shaking fairly violently with something like a miss. The weird part is if you have ZERO level it should be turned off. Still something code wise is leaking through on a cold start it loping and stumbling. Like yesterday I parted the truck came back after awhile started it up and it was loping and missing again so all I did was unplug the CAN bus lead now it purrs like a kitten. I left it unplugged all the way home unconfirmed but I think I finally beat my Quadzilla MPG high mark without a Quadzilla. That's not good... If you drove around the city in heavy traffic where you light feeding throttle the truck sound nasty and performed poorly. Then once you got into the throttle and enough speed the problem was gone. Any condition that placed you at light throttle and 800 to 1200 you can feel the shake and miss.

I'll be testing tomorrow... I'll let you know.

I got @Me78569 create a tune without the transfer of power and just light switched. I'm going to test drive it here in a bit and see how it works. I did do a cold start to check for lope and that is now gone.

I also agree with both above statements. I can prove that without a doubt with all the vehicle accident I've been to and where full size cars and truck tend to be the winners. Small compact vehicles tend to lose. So still in all I'm crossing 320k miles. I've got a few minor repairs to do... big deal. I'm still safe and still travelling the roads where most gasser would be nearing the wore out stag now.

Don't I wish...

Cleaning the sensors never fixed any issues. I suggest reading the live data and seeing if poor data is being produced or error codes.

Ugh... Got up this morning at 32 degrees and got into New Meadows at 27 degrees. Getting down right frosty.

The last flash has mine shaking and missing from 800 to 1000 RPMs. Even the custom flash is still doing it.

Thanks @dripley ... You reminded me of the other problems. Most small cars I can get the seat back far enough. Even in my truck, the driver seat is nearly all the way back because I've got long legs. Don't help when I stand 6' 2". Even in my old 1973 Dodge Charger, I had the seat all the way back to just fit in the car. So small car for me is not happening unless you cut me off at the kneecaps. The other thing I've noticed is the guys that are saying to bail out are typically guys that are aiming for large HP numbers and end up battling the whole way. All of us that are stock or mildly modified are having way fewer troubles and issues.

My problem is that with winter time coming on smaller cars don't do very well in 12 inches of snow. Most little cars don't have enough body weight and most are only 2WD so that is just dangerous. After coming home in my first snow storm and watching everyone panic and driving 15-20 MPH. I just passing people left and right and kept on trucking. There is a lot be said for the 7,500 pound 4WD truck over a lightweight front wheel drive car in unploughed highways. Yeah you might get your fuel savings but I'll keep my safety.

That's with any vehicle. Doesn't matter if its a new or old truck or any brand name they ALL have this issue.

I'll have to disagree with @Wild and Free I've not had a lot of problems with my two 2nd Gen trucks. I've got my 1996 Dodge 1500 V8 gasser and then 2002 Dodge 2500 Cummins. Both have been good trucks but not nickeled and dimed me to death. Yeah, things wear out and need replacing but like on my 2002 I'm still running mostly all factory OEM steering parts yet. They haven't worn out after 320k miles now. Yeah, my steering box is starting to leak a bit no biggy doesn't mean replace the box but i'll order the rebuild kit from BlueTop and rebuild that box for cheap. So I've wore out 2 clutches. So I broke the mainshaft in my transmission. Even going back to VP44 issue I've only changes 2 VP44 in the life of my truck so far.

http://www.westach.com/ http://www.hewittindustries.com/ Some of these gauges look nearly the same. Like the dual pyrometers.

Sorry, Linux servers don't have that font...

Correction... It the anti-virus software manufacture classifying the flash files as a virus. Like I said the server here is fully covered by ClamAV so anything stored on the server is checked. Microsoft being they have the largest focus of software users they tend to be the hardest hit with malware and viri software. @Dodgeih I suggest you ditch the anti-virus software your using and upgrade to something with a bit more value sad part is it will cost you for better protection that reports true...

Here you go.. At the bottom of the page here there is the one ground that bolts up by the starter on the engine block. This covers the ground for the fuel heater, CAN Bus, and lift pump.

Holy Crap dude... I paid just about $120 for my heater core. Take a bit over 4 hours to do a heater core change and HVAC case clean out. Holy crap again the prices have tanked out on heater cores... They are super cheap... No you DO NOT need a dealer part that just wasteful spending. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2002,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1440064,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+core,6864 Wasteful spending again. The steering box could of been rebuilt for less than $40 bucks and made tight again with a few adjustments. The off center adjustment is in the drag link you can loosen that clamp up and center the steering your self. Steering damper a lot of offroad guys just pull them off and not even use them. You would of been better off posting here before starting...