Mopar1973Man

Currently I'm running level 3 being I'm not wire tapped yet. I'm also running +75 HP injectors (7 x 0 0085). Also no longer running the stock turbo (54/60/12) I'm running HX35/40 (60/60/12). Soon I'll tap the pump and go back to level 7. I'm currently producing a look alike tune that mimics Edge Comp. I'm close.

Just crawled out of the shower... I'm keeping mine for gray hair that is popping out.

Like myself I've got all Linux Computers. So I run Virtualbox with Windows installed. Nice part is since the Virtualbox is only used for these things I've got no need for virus software and it been working for quite a while with a problem My last post about shutter problems at low RPM's was a flash issue. So I'm going to rebuild my Virtualbox and Windows. Funny part is on the Linux side I can ls USB ports and the Quadzilla shows up without drivers. Just I don't have any software to do the flash update.

Using a Windows PC download the update. The install the Quadzilla Driver and plug in the USB cord to the Quadzilla and flash the update. There is min-USB plug on the Quadzilla and you flash the Quadzilla using the Windows PC software. Get ahold of @Me78569 he's the Quadzilla king here...

I think you have to select vehicle software 2.7 version, not the 2.5 version.

The alternator is dead. Then you're running strictly on the battery (clean DC power). If the problem goes away then the alternator is to blame again.

I would unhook the trigger lead on the relays (smaller wire) I know it will trip a code. For testing purpose, it will do. Another way is to pull the field lead from the alternator and go for a test drive.

It could be the output speed sensor... Gamble I've seen a few of these on the 2nd Gen but not sure on the 3rd gen...

The flash files need to be handled by Windows PC.

Personally I like your first design.

Hmmm... So the pilot bearing isn't centered. So you measured from the bearing edge to a bolt hole?

With all the travel time... I've got around to learning how to work Google. Google has a wonderful voice command system for Android Phones. You can call out "ok Google" to fire up the app even if the phone is locked. Then you can tell Google different commands and it will do it for you. Being my truck has a cellphone gooseneck my phone is facing me. I can call out "Ok Google call Nick Otto" it will dial his phone number and since my stereo has Aux jack I'm plugged into the stereo and can use the phone while driving. Text messages the same way. I can call out "Ok Google send a message to Rosalie I'll be there in 10 minutes" it will make a text message for MoparMom and send it to her. You can ask it questions and do searches as well. https://www.cnet.com/how-to/complete-list-of-ok-google-commands/ https://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/list-of-ok-google-voice-commands/ Great tool for the traveling person.

Ive got a FCA that has been used once less than an hour. It's brand new Bosch unit. As for live data tools look at OBDLink they got some good Bluetooth or WiFi dongles that work good. I've got one use it for diagnostics on all vehicles.

No. If the RAM or the PROM are damaged flashing won't fix damaged hardware. I would check the TPS signal with a live data tool.

That's something I learned during my time with working with Smarty Resource web site.

Double check that alternator. I've seen alternators fail in short amounts of time. It could be the heavy draw of the grid heaters causing the alternator noise level to rise too high causing the dead pedal.

Since I know the 16 sizes well...

Interesting...

Little something to consider about tire sizes. Just get out of your truck and start walking in the deep snow. What happens you sink to the bottom right. If you put on snowshoes you can walk on top of the snow. This points out the fact why you should run narrow tires in the winter because you gain more traction because of the contact patch being smaller giving more pounds per square inch of tire contact. Wider and larger the contact patch the worse off you end up in winter road conditions. Maybe that's why I run 2WD most of the winter and don't need tire chains or 4WD very much... The only time you would welcome big tires if you had to travel muddy field like the local cattle ranchers. They do have wide tires on their truck to prevent them from sinking down in the mud. What the difference between a stock 265's and a 235's... 1.1" narrower. 1mm taller. 25 pounds lighter. 2-3 MPG better. 265's on the left and 235's on the right. If you didn't know the 235's are the stock size for the 1/2 ton and one ton trucks... Just in my change from 256's to 235's I've extended my steering box live over 300k miles. I've only changed one set of ball joints and one track bar. Brakes last over 180k miles a set now. Shocks last well over 100k miles now and still going good. Even my 1996 Ram 1500 is 235's and no issues with the front suspension at all. Compared to 285's and above most have suspension issues and steering issues. That's one of the reasons I traded in my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon is because I destroyed the front axle with over sized tires.

Actually not a ground issue. Check the green wire from the alternator to the PCM this is a variable ground lead that controls the alternator field voltage. If the green wire makes contact to ground the alternator will run wild.

No matter what that transmission is coming out and being fully inspected for damage and clean all the debris out of it. Get enough junk in the oil holes for the bearing either will plug the oil holes up and ruin the bearings or enough small debris makes into the bearings and ruins the bearings either way that transmission is coming out to be cleaned up.

Something in the rear cover failed. The rear cover is aluminum.

Wow that's rather shocking...

More about weight and contact. Lighter the wheel and tire assembly means better MPG's. RPM's should be setup at 2k when at highway speed. Larger tires can reduce RPM's at a cost of rotational mass and more wear on front suspension and brakes. I went the opposite direct to the 235/85 R16 cut 23-25 pounds of rotational mass and gain a few MPG's becuase the RPM's are right around 1,900 at 65 MPH at 80 MPH I'm about 2,400 RPM but this is just wasteful. Optimal speed on my truck is 55 MPH which still pushes upwards of 20+ MPG. Just think about racing slicks you can get those and they barely weigh 23-27 pounds for a rear tire there is no rotational mass. All these wide tire tires exceed 100 pounds once you toss the wide wheels in. My old aluminum mags and a 235's I could weigh in at 62 pounds per tire and wheel. This means more power to the ground and less wasted in spinning heavy wheels. Best way to show this go to the park... Remember these as a kid. The smaller ones a couple a kids could get spinning rather good. Now the larger ones took even more kids to get spinning a good fast rate. Then when it can to stopping because of the kids hanging off then it took even more kids to stop the wheel if it was larger smaller ones stopped rather easy. Just consider your tire size the same way. I worked with a local guy that wanted 37" tire. He's now very happy because we had both axles re-gear properly to match the RPM's for his driving style. He also did all the supporting mods to the front suspension. It can be done but its not as easy as bolting on a set of new wheels with wide tires there is a lot to consider and be aware of...