Mopar1973Man

I can try and help...

Interesting theory... Now will the PSG and VP44 tone wheel be considered?

If I'm not mistaken the Quadzilla is powering itself through the ignition lead. Basically when turbo timer kicks in the Quadzilla couples the BATT lead and IGN lead together. As soon as the EGTs are below the set point then the Quadzilla disconnects the BATT lead and the power automatically fails on the IGN lead because the key is OFF. In the technical sense, the fuse should be on the ignition lead.

Actually the draw will be the same as fuse you tap in the cab which IIRC is 10 amp. The Quadzilla passes power through the Battery lead to the Ignition trigger during cool down.

H1 Mini's are considered a basic. D2S will fit as well but you have to shave the shroud to fit the housing. D2S have a bigger lens and wider path of light compared to the H1 mini's. Most of the guys here doing it themselves used the H1 mini's. When I was talking to Retro Shop about the differences he informed me about the lens differences and the light difference. Just depends on if you are traveling long at night or not. Like myself, I travel 300-400 miles a week in the dark highways of Idaho.

I've used a 3/4 to 1/2 NPT then stacked 1/2 to 1/8 brass NPT in that... No problem. You can usee anything that is NPT threads.

Love them... Nice and bright beam is placed on the pavement not in everyone's eyes like crap LED headlights or cheap retro fit HIDs. If I had the funds I'd do it again for the 96 but do just the H1 minis.

You got that backwards... You need to stop the production of AC ripple. You can produce AC ripple on the negative side as well as the positive side. So no matter what you do you still stuck fixing the source of the AC ripple. Because if a diode on the negative side fails it can potentially feed AC ripple down the negative side or into the block. AC ripple doesn't matter if it on the positive or negative side. It has ZERO references to the actual earth ground like house electrical does which will direct that energy to a safe place. On vehicles there is no such place. So the AC ripple continues till the problem is fixed. This is why on some truck the noise filter doesn't work because the fact the noise filter is installed on the positive line but what if the noise in on the negative side? Make you think...

I look at it from a simple solution. First of you have to think these truck ran for 10 plus years without any issues. Then all of sudden you have transmission shift issues. Then people start butching the electrical system attempting to fix this problem. Just remember that the truck ran fine for 10 plus year why do you need to do wiring mods or install noise filters? Why not fix the problem and leave the wiring alone that worked fine for so many years.

Might have to time it and get together with @Me78569 at least meet up with each other. I can say without a doubt this winter is going be weird. I've got no snow and weather has been warm reaching the 50s the last few days. Nowhere near like winter time. I'll have to say that you might be fine with running barefoot for now. I know other that direction into Wyoming it does get rather crazy for snow. I would say pack the chains along if you don't use them you can just return them.

If it truly leaking there we've got the fix for it too.

Same here rubber compound is harder wear much longer. Great traction even in snow and ice without studs. I know I got over 50k on those tires did very well. Majority highway miles but there was some dirt road runs but low percentage of dirt.

Ahh... Not all the same... http://www.obdlink.com/mxbt/#symple-tab-compare There is a change in standards... Some people look to use these tools for other vehicles they might own. Some of the cheaper ones will not work on the newer GM and Ford vehicles. https://www.elmelectronics.com/products/ics/obd/?v=7516fd43adaa So now showing both tables the OBDLink MX series can do a few more protocols that ELM can't. So they are not all the same. True the base design came from the ELM32x chips but other manufacturers have improved on the design considerably. So like here is the firmware updates for the OBDLink MX series. Depending on the ELM series you got and how cheap there might not be any updates to cover future vehicles. Again too cheap might limit abilities. https://www.scantool.net/downloads/updates/obdlink_mx/

I ran the Hankook ATm for quite long run and did excellent. With all my travels of going back and forth to Ontario, OR and then hauling the RV for place to stay on the busy weeks. I got good service from them. http://www.hankooktire.com/us/passenger-cars/hankook-dynapro-at-m-rf10.html

Be careful... Cutting your self too cheap might limit your abilities.

Is $49 bucks too steep for your blood? This is the same tool I'm running... https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-427201-OBDLink-Bluetooth-Professional/dp/B00H9S71LW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511832477&sr=8-2&keywords=obdlink+mx+bluetooth

Could you post up some pictures so I can get a better grasp of what you are talking about?

The best thing I can suggest is to get a OBDII tool that does live data and monitor all the data you can to see if there is a certain condition that is tripping this off. Sensors do fail within specs and behave weird which might cause issues but never throw a code because the data given is still valid. Some things you might be able to spot right off like temperatures coolant and IAT should match at start up then the coolant should be in the 190-195 realm. IAT is a weird animal be it should be about +40*F over outside temperature at full coolant temperature. MAP sensor is a bit troublesome to diagnose but the sensor is quite expensive. Tach signal should be smooth. APPS sensor is another weird one that might fail within specs and do weird things too. Typically you can spot these with DVM or live data tool. There will be a sudden drop or rise in signal voltage.

All the information you need to know...

Here you go right from the Dodge owners manual... Funny part is the transmission final gear is the factor that raises or lower the Max GCWR. Both 2500 and 3500 are rated for 16,000 to 21,500 pound GCWR depending on final gear and transmission. 3500 typically have a GVWR of 11,000 pounds. Then 2500 have GVWR rating of 8,800 pounds.

Thank some cool history for the D0001 truck.

I think it more common with high HP setup that mild and stock setup. Cracking I figure is caused from sudden temperature change in the cylinder like heavy throttle launch where a daily driver mildly modded truck rarely sees high cylinder temperature.

Don't be so confident that your alternator is still good. I've seen alternators fail in under 3 months. Yes it very possible that the ECM got wiped out by excessive AC noise again. I would still retest the alternator and see where you are at.

AC noise failure on the ECM. In other words, the alternator AC noise cooked the RAM or the PROM chips in the ECM. So now at boot time (key on), the ECM struggles to boot up so the truck is actually brain dead till that WAIT TO START light comes on. You need to verify your alternator is clean, grounds are good. Not the body ground but the passenger main ground for the computers. Then you need to see about having your ECM remanufactured. There is an article started for known good listing of shops.

Like mine is leaking somewhere on the vacuum pump side but has oil scattered all the way to the passenger side all down the oil pan to the bell housing. The only way you are going to sort this out is to wash down the areas clean and take it for short ride at lower speeds and check often for oil and it source of the leak.