Mopar1973Man

If there is enough AC noise it could foul the tach signal to the ECM and do weird things from dropping fuel or adding fuel because the ECM can't clearly see the RPM's any longer. The ECM is trying to listen to all the data given to it but there is one punk kid with his bass box cranked all the way up to MAX and the ECM is fighting to do it job but having troubles listening to all the sensors. This is what AC noise could be doing. Unkonwn till the OP does some testing.

Isn't there going to be anything covering the top section? Duh! Never mind I just read you last post...

Hua???

Pay the $1,200 and replace it. The sad part is the pure cost of becoming a Bosch Certified Rebuilder plus the cost of buying the Bosch 815 test stand. Then every pump takes about 3 hours to run its course on the test stand. Even if you had a way to send back a pump they are not going to test for free. It will be a pretty penny being you are taking away from there profits. White smoke, low power, no start, and there is a list of error codes.

That sucks... I've had my 1973 Dodge Charger start to weep coolant from the water pump figured I had a few more days. Nope not even ten miles that water pump threw the fan into the face of the radiator. Back then brass radiators could be solder up and made to work. Now with aluminum your stuck replacing it.

I'd talk to @jlbayes about this he might have a line on a source for good heads.

I'm going to pull a few names I remember with the setup. I'm pretty sure @War Eagle and I know @AH64ID have the 19.5 wheels. Hopefully they get the notice and pop in.

Best way to handle it one step at a time.

Fuel pressure gauge would tell more about that typically the stock system is too restrictive for even a stock truck. This why most of us have upgraded to an AirDog or FASS fuel system that replaces all the plumbing between the tank and the VP44. The only thing I would suggest is that you keep the stock filter and not remove it. The idea of double stacking filters is good also the WIF light will continue to work and fuel heater in the bitterly cold winters. Back to the topic title of the solo 1693 code... We need to pull codes and see where we are going before we buy a bunch of parts that do nothing for your immediate problem.

Basically, you got AirDog and FASS fuel systems. I would suggest the large 2 filter setup. Don't do any direct replacement pumps. As for the VP44 stick with the Stock VP44 you don't need to waste money on any hotrod or performance pumps. Fuel pressure (14-20 PSI), 2 cycle oil in the fuel (128:1 ratio), low AC noise power from alternator (<0.05 AC) volts, double filtered fuel (keep the stock filter and add FASS or Airdog 3 micron). In a nutshell my last VP44 lasted 243k miles.

With that being said I would first do an AC noise check of the alternator. If the AC noise is high you'll have to deal with that first. Part I'm confused on is "My sensors are buzzing all over the place reading high" but "no idea why not throwing any codes". Are you using OBDII tool to get codes or the key trick? Just from the video it acts like a failed ECM but that's guessing right now without more info...

My answer based on this problem. Being we have CEL but just a 1693 code by the key trick. We need the new codes as well. Guessing at fuel issues might get very expensive quickly.

I know the 2nd Gen are rated for 20,000 for the 3/4 ton and 21,000 for the 1 ton. These numbers are typically listed in the owners manual of the truck. I'll dig out my manual and get photos.

Should be... This is what I was trying to get you...

Ahhh... So your going to need to do some wire checking. I'm going to say the CCD bus is goofy. I'm trying to post on my phone. Over in the articles look up CCD Network and check the wiring diagram.

Possible injection timing issues? Being if the pop pressure is too low timing will be more advanced and the spray pattern will be poor.

All I can say its time to look at your amount of drag. You'll know when your drag is reduced because the engine load number will fall to travel the same speed.

This now my highway rig. So far covered 55k miles in just over a year of going back and forth to Ontario, OR from New Meadows, ID 3 times a week. Since the travel is for @MoparMom dialysis treatments I got to do it as economically as possible so it doesn't eat a hole in our budget. Like I posted my last few MPG numbers I'm still trying to keep high MPG's through winterized diesel fuel and poor weather conditions.

Most likely too high. Here is my truck full loaded and sitting on the scale with the RV as well. Take notice of the inflation pressures. That is a 3 pad scale. Funny part is at 55 MPH dragging nearly 8,000 pound that stands 11.5 tall and 32 foot long I get 12-14 MPG. You get slightly better empty running 75-80 MPH. This give you an idea of how much drag you fighting.

As from what I know there are machine shops that could fix that crack. How exactly they do it I'm not sure. I've heard from a few people that had cracked heads and had them repaired and put back into service.

Part of it areodynamics. Part of it total weight. Then part is rotational mass and rolling resistance. Aerodynamics is very very important above 55 MPH. Wind drag is exponential above 55 MPH so if you have an open bed or like your leveling kit then you adding to the problem. Most of ownership of my truck I've had either a canopy or now I've got a roll back tonneau cover. This aid in reducing wind drag above 55 MPH. This is why I try and stay away from the interstates above 65 MPH mine falls like a rock no matter what I do for tuning. Excessive cargo and weight has an impact too like I check vehicle weight often and do an inventory and ditch stuff that been hanging around. 4480 in the front, 2980 in the rear for a total of 7,460 pounds with 2 passengers and better than half tank of fuel. Like your custom front bumper most likely adding some weight to the front axle. Are you properly inflating your tires for the axles weight? Most people don't. Tire size wise you good but being a 1 ton with duals is hurting. That extra set of tires on the rear axle is robbing you of about 40-60 HP with the excessive rotational mass. Not knowing if you have aggressive tire pattern that will hurt the rolling resistance factor. Basically, you need to look at your truck like a 1/4 drag race vehicle. Is it light enough? Most use racing slicks smooth face tires have the least amount of rolling resistance also racing slick are typically a fraction of the weight typically in the 20-25 pound bracket. Most all drag racing has the nose of the vehicle down to cut the wind drag down. Axle / vehicle weight are reduced as much as possible. This typically goes against most everyone "Cool Factor" that they want for a truck.

I can tell you more interstate the worse it will get. Simple fact is Engine Load is equal to the Fueling number on the Quadzilla. The only difference is fueling number is from 0 to 4095 and engine load is 0 to 100. They are both equal to each other. So no matter what you need to reduce your engine load as much as possible. I typically float 19-25% engine load at 65 MPH. Also just for point of reference at 65 MPH (1,900 RPM) I'm hitting roughly 22-23* of timing. My last few tanks of fuel. My current tune. I'll be updating again soon.

I'm betting that they are a really poor pattern and blinding passing people. Most plug N' play LED lighting is typically poor because the bulb is not designed for the reflector. Typically all the LED retro fits I run across blind me and they get a shot of HID's back at them. Look something like this right? This is what a quality HID pattern is like...

Tough call. Somehow you need a known good APPS sensor and then you'll know if the problem is ECM or APPS.

Basically. the two relay in neutral look like this one. So when neither relay is powered it will have ground on both sides of the winch motor. So now if the switch is grounded on the green leg now that will trigger the first relay and the green lead to the winch now is POSITIVE while the blue lead is NEGATIVE. So if it reversed only the blue wire of the switch is grounded now the blue wire to the winch is POSITIVE and the green wire is negative. There can only be 3 states on the switch. Neutral - Both the green and blue wire of the winch are NEGATIVE or ground. GREEN GROUNDED - now the green wire to the winch is POSITIVE. BLUE GROUNDED - now the blue wire to the winch is POSITIVE.