Mopar1973Man

No relay. Wiring diagram is above. Like I said it most likely a bad fuse. Headlight fuses are in the PDC under the hood. The dimmer switch is before the headlight switch and the headlight switch is the last item heading for ground. Red is positive and black is ground. That simple. +12V -> Fuse -> Headlight Bulb <- Dimmer Switch <- Headlight switch <- Ground

Blown fuse.

Not normal. If the old filter was a K&N it may be normal. But any oil residue must be washed off the compressor wheel. Being its spinning very high RPM's a little goop in the compressor could offset the balance of the compressor wheel. Kind of like having mud in the inside of a wheel it will offset the balance. Possibly a cracked exhaust manifold? Loose valve lash? Educated guessing here...

You have CCD network issues and a dying injection pump. Your definitions are not correct. P1693 is just flag. Nothing more.

@Quadzilla Power, @Me78569 and @Quadzilla_Stephen I'll bring the boys to you.

That's a heck of a Woody.

So what does it do in Idaho?

Subzero temps no. Positive temps yes.

Only thing about LED lights is the snow piles up on the lens quick. No heat to keep them clean.

I've got the same problem but I typically hook up my mechanical gauge for test like these to get around the ZERO out problem. I'm running a ISSPro EV2 gauges.

You might take a peek over at the Quadzilla forum and peek in on the different topics. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/ I'm also part of the BETA tester for Quadzilla I will admit clearly the Quadzilla beats the Edge Juice easy! Tunning is better control, timing control, less wiring in the cab (just 1 wire for the Quad).

Fuel pressure seem good. Was it low at all during cranking like ZERO then snap up to pressure that would be a sign of air issues.

If it was me I would replace all those rubber joints with fresh vacuum hose. Problem will be solved.

Be better off on the Adrenaline easy to tune than the XZT. You can control your low boost fuel number precisely.

Two questions... 1. Error Codes any present? Use OBDII code reader. 2. Fuel Pressure? What were the numbers like?

Personally I would like to have a full on and off switch so A/C can either turned on in any position or forced OFF and any position. Some times you would like to drive through an area of heavy smoke or dust and want to keep your heat going so you'd flip over to MAX A/C now the outside air is turned off but the A/C compressor is running. Kind of like you like to run DEF or floor DEF without the compressor coming on. Like in the morning before the engine is warmed up so you get super cooled air.

NV4500 are very common fair priced. NV5600 are bit more expensive and bit more rare so the core prices are typically higher. Like from Six States in Boise the core on my NV4500 was nearly 3,000. So be aware rare part typically have high core prices.

Only way to really test a VP44 is to replace it. Cost nearly the same price to send a VP44 to be benched test being it takes about 3 hours on the Bosch 815 test stand to bench one pump out.

This is why my design came to be because it resolves all the issues. Freezup and blowing the mains problem which the drop down extension have been known to do. Resolves the crankcase smell in the cab. It resolves the spill problem for hard braking and 4WD operation.

While you are there pull your radiator out and power wash both side of it.

That's my spring time project for my truck my valve seal are leaking now and give me a nice blue smoke cloud on start up.

Works excellent. Keeps the oil in the crankcase where the extension method tends to still dip more than my version. I'm mostly highway now covering over 3,000 miles a month.

Heater controls is a vacuum pump or vacuum leak problem. I would check vacuum leaks first. Hard steering is most like the gear box needing to be rebuilt because seals are blown out or passages are plugged up. Most likely both being rarely do I find anyone that changes the power steering fluid at the recommended 30k miles intervals. Being you most like pass debris from the old pump there the system it most likely plugged ports up so you'll end up pulling the steering box out to rebuild it. I highly suggest you do not replace steering box but rebuild it. Most boxes can be rebuilt fairly cheap around 30 to 40 bucks and made tight again like OEM new box.

the CK-4 oil smell like Rotella (Rosmella) heavy oil vapor smell. You are fine then.

Watch your live data and see if there is any drop outs in voltage. If you had a Quadzilla I would say just watch the fuel signal if your reaching 4,095 then APPS is fine and making full throttle. The only other problem is weak spots where voltage drops quick.