Mopar1973Man

I'm going to bet the fan squirrel cage is full of debris. I would consider replacing the cables soon this will only get worse over time. There is another thread on the site where a guy is replacing a main cable and crimping eys on and using military terminals.

Skip the sport headlights and get a single bulb headlight case... https://www.amazon.com/SPPC-Crystal-Headlights-Chrome-Corner/dp/B00JBIACJG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509724416&sr=8-7&keywords=2001+dodge+ram+headlight

After watching that show, Mike Finnegan reminds me of @TFaoro truck...

4.3k bulbs will be a warmer orange color light. 5k bulbs will be more of a bluish colored light. Very minor differences. Here is 5k bulbs... My driving lights are like a 3k bulb...

Send in a support ticket we'll look into it... I've done the sport headlights with relay mod. I've four 100w aircraft landing lights with relay mod. After all said and done... HID headlights blow the doors off of any stock headlight mod out there right now. Trust me its worth the extra money and just change over to HID lighting and skip the whole britebox idea or relay mods. I drive 250 miles every other day from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR and back New Meadows, ID. I know what you mean about dark.

128:1 ratio (1 ounce to 1 gallon) is what normal diesel user would add. So I would most likely double that 64:1 ratio (2 ounces to 1 gallon). Remember 50:1 is what typical chainsaw will run and it protects all the moving part at high RPM's and mixed with straight gasoline. Consider that thought...

Then the set I bought fully assembled. Instead of the smaller H1 Mini's like @Me78569 done I went up a full size to D2S Morimoto's which has bigger lens more light but still with the standard 35w 5k bulbs and ballast. http://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO

Might tell the guy to stop with the ATF and add 2 cycle oil instead. ATF is way too high of ash content and can possibly plug injector nozzles.

True... So do I but, I know for fact the local ones here have had 2-3 times more VP44 failures than I have. Being I'm the person replacing the VP44's for the owners. I'm getting rather proficient at changing VP44's taking me roughly 1.5 hours. Kind of like saving @IBMobile on his camping trip through here... He's completely stock and failed around the 90k mark.

There could be a reason for the black particles. I've seen a few reports where biodiesel eats the fuel level float. I've seen reports of biodiesel just being a dirty fuel and not properly filtered before sale. Then you could have issues with algae from water content of biodiesel.

You can do a bright box or there is either a relay mod or wire mod. I've never done either because the extra load on the headlight circuit becomes excessive usually causes issues with switches.

I think that what it is. Being I've still got my factory cable in good condition I've never had to replace the cables. Sorry I don't know the size right off hand.

Windshield leak... I've got the same problem on my truck. The only way to fix it is to replace the windshield. Mine puddles up on the floor mat and only when it rains. I've rolled over on my back and hunted with a flashlight just after a storm and seen where it's coming in around the bottom edge of the glass. I'vee even got a few along the top of the glass that I can make leak with a garden hose with good force. My glass is already cracked I just need time to replace it. Insurance covers a good chunk.

Maybe... Depends on how long it has been high AC voltage against the ECM. Maybe, Maybe not. Simple way to test is to pull the field lead off the back and go for a test drive. If the dead pedal is gone then the ECM is fine. Not mine... This was another member on the site that shared his experiences. That was also around a 2V AC measure on that diode pack.. I'm in the process of getting diodes ordered for the store on the site. So very soon we'll have rebuild kits for people at a fraction of the cost of replacements.

Diodes are what filter the AC down to DC...

Cleaned your post up for ya... Something not right... Sounds like someone didn't do the rebuild...

Make sure to have it bench tested again before you pay and leave again.

Not mine... Mine are still factory terminals. I've never had to clean mine or remove them but to change batteries back at 2012... So it will be roughly 2022 when I remove my terminals from the battery again. Secret... Keep your terminals damp with engine oil they will never rot.

Be careful I've seen cracked fuses that look good but tested with an ohm meter are open circuits. So check them again wth a ohm meter of test light and verify power is on both pins of the fuse with lights on.

These are just 2 filters just the can of the filter is sitting beside the filter element. Stock filter and my AirDog 150.

I'll have to agree...

At what cost of the longevity of the VP44 and injectors. True it will work but typically comes at the cost of more VP44 failures and injector life spans shorten.

Yes, that was done correctly and yes that alternator is shot and doing serious damage to all the electronics on the truck I highly suggest you do not drive it also pull it off now have it bench tested to confirm also. Then when you replace to make sure to bench test the replacement alternator before you leave. Start with the alternator replacement first then test again for dead pedal...

Factory filters are still sold as a 10 micron filter. Even with all the tight tolerance in the injectors and injection pump I would have to disagree with @jlbayes .

Actually the heat sink has nothing to do with headlights. If you remove the panel light fuse that heat would be cold. So if you want to reduce that heat from the heat sink the proper way would replace all the interior bulbs with LED's and ditch all the old incandescent bulbs. Relays will do nothing for that heat sinks. It would provide a slightly more power to the headlight bulbs but most people can't tell the difference. Most of this loss isn't the switch per say but the long run of the ground into the cab and its small gauge wire used. So since I drop the sport head lights which are 60w x 4 bulbs or 240w of burning bulbs divded by 12 volts that is 20 amps of draw. The wire size contributes a bunch of loss to the run. So now jumping ship to 35w HID's x 2 = 70w of burning bulbs divded by 12 that's 5.8 amps of draw. Now there is near nothing for loss on the headlight circuit with the stock gauge. Honestly the relay kit of the HID's removes all the load off the headlight switch any ways but reducing electrical loads has a great impact on voltage loss.