Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... There is a thought but every thing is in a tube or channel so there is no exposed wires to the outside of the trailer. All completely protected design. I've got all my new plugs for the rear tail lights I just need the time to do the repair work. Been really busy around here between shop work and site work.

One day I'll get time to install mine. I've got a 95 Dodge in the shop now again. So it's on hold again and again...

That's a heavily modified racing engine. Stock engine would never hold up to that. Like said before get gauges. Protect your investment. If you want to verify your engine health just do a compression check and do a pop testing of the injectors while their out.

Really simple. State the facts and keep it minimized in responses. Nothing to it.

Just rather be truthful than hiding the facts.

After about 25*F mine won't even start without grid heaters.

Heck just being in the mountain of Idaho and completely stock truck with no mods you can melt something really easy pulling heavy loads. That was one of the first things I learned after installing gauges in my truck going over 7% grades at normal highway speed it very possible to exceed 1,400*F worth of pyrometer just hauling a heavy trailer.

Again you shouldn't. Because you not a vendor nor are you staff of M73M. Lets say the eyes are heavily watching me right now and I don't dare even say anything about High Idle over there. It would be what would get me banned for sure. I've already been warned once already.

Yes as standard users you can but none of my staff member should be public talking about the high idle switch really. It too risky if CF staff member realize or another vendor reports them they could be warned or banned for vending without paying CF fees. Since you not a vendor nor a staff member of M73M you are fine.

Count the beats. Typically I'll do 3 beats and stop. Check the measurement.

You will get banned... You stealing vendors sales from the site or vending without paying $400 a month fees... (Not a typo).

Contact in the relay do over time get pitted like starter contacts and eventually arc weld together or arc pit so bad that they no longer make a good connection. So investing few bucks into a fresh relay is "cheap" testing.

Just ordered a test cap for the rail and a fuel pressure test gauge (low pressure side). I've got my OBDLink for the high pressure side. So as soon those tools come I can continue testing.

Here is a vid on the calipers...

The one on the right looks like something out of MadMax...

Lets say losing 1 manifold bolt is enough to drop my truck from 35 PSI to barely 8 PSI and EGT's sky rocketing instantly. So if you have several small weeping leaks it could add up.

Because the timing is already over advanced in cold weather hence the excessive rattling. So if you retard the timing the rattling stopped and get a very quiet smooth running engine. Also timing just moves the torque curve forward in RPM. So too much advancement means the engine struggles to pull it self along in cold weather just after starting. So if you retard timing it brings the torque curve back down lower in RPM and allows the engine to build power much easier. Hence the gains...

Boost leaks Intake manifold gasket Grid heater gaskets MAP sensor o-ring IAT sensor o-ring Turbo elbow o-ring & clamp. Missing manifold bolt(s) Hole/cut in a boot Hole or crack in the intercooler Now you also got to look for drive pressure leaks too. Basically look for soot tracks along the exhaust manifold. Also look for cracks in the manifold. If you lose drive pressure you'll lose boost pressure. Also I typically pressurize the system and spray everything with soap solution and look for bubbles. Some times you can just hear the leak hissing away.

Today is the first snow seen from my windows. Night time low of 39*F and a day time high of 45*F. Winter is coming... YAH!

Cold start it typical to see some white smoke. Just means the cylinder temp is too low for complete combustion of the fuel. My questions are... Do you see this when completely warmed up? What is your temperature when fully warmed up? Is it above or below the 190*F mark?

That's why the the vehicle is grounded through the ground pin of the of the block heater cord. As long no positive side circuit came in contact with the hot side of the cord it would be pretty hard pressed to complete a 110 VAC circuit into the DC side. Kind of like my solar system here on the house there is a fine line between 110 VAC of the house and the 24VDC of the batteries and the only thing shared in the ground.

Back in 2006 when I bought my AirDog 150 the Drawstraw V was not even a option. Of course I took my time and installed it right and never had a single issue with the old school straw. I've been down to the empty mark a few times. I've drained my tank a few times and there is less than a quart of fuel left.

Yes a bed lift and installing a straw give the best results only if the tank is EMPTY. This way you see the tank at its smallest size. Then when you fill the tank the weight of the fuel will pull the tank bottom down and away from the straw. This is why I cut the straw tight to the bottom so as the fuel is running out the tank bottom rises to the tip of the straw getting more out. So this why I like dropping the tank and resting it on the edge of 2x4 lumber at the band points. You can work really easy and can clean up your drill shaving in the tank.

Like Me78569 said it just adjust the IAT sensor input to the ECM and the module just uses the same data as well to calculate fuel and timing needs.

I've got a 2005 Dodge Ram 3500. There is no error codes presently and rail pressure is a max of roughly 5,000 psi and at idle its start to surge dropping as low as 1,900 PSI on the rail. I know this is not enough rail pressure at all for normal operation. I've changed the FCA without any change in pressure or operation. Where to go next?