Mopar1973Man

During start up run the lift pump circuit at 50% duty cycle. This will reduce injection pump fuel pressure. It will also prevent over advancement of the pump which creates hard starting. You can verify this by unplugging the lift pump.

I'm going to take my economy tune as a base and go from 4.5 per timing band to 4.0 per timing band. This will allow for a bit more boost under load. The bit of retard will give more expanding gases to the turbo for more boost.

Yes. When engine load is ZERO then the VP44 stops injecting and just bypasses to the return line. This applies to all engine and transmission combos.

Only thing I would do is ditch the Blue Chip Pump and go back to a stock VP44. Modified pump could pose a problem being like Blue Chip pump do with building tunes. Stock VP44 is much much better for tuning over hot rod or Blue Chip pumps. Proper final ratio has to do with getting the power to the ground without heat. Good final ratio to the ground of 3.55 to 3.73 is required. If your running oversized tires on 3.55 gear I will bet your EGTs are high.

I'm running... 150 HP injectors popped at 320 bar Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner with my economy tune HX35W turbo 4 inch exhaust straight pipe 30 inch tires (245/75 R16) NV4500 transmission BHAF

Like putting 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears which makes a final ratio of 3.21 to the ground. Optimal to the ground is 3.55 to 3.73. So I'm running 245/75 R16 on 3.55 gears making 3.69:1 to the ground. This put me at 66 MPH at 2,000 RPM. This is a really good final ratio which has me topped out 28.04 MPG. This is partially due to lighter rotation mass being my wheels and tires are roughly 65 pounds per wheel. Rotation Mass affects acceleration and weight affects how much power is needed to keep rolling. Notice the elevation doesn't change and egts are low.

I'm in Idaho... server is in Michigan. Right now I'm more focused on the camping trip. In the evening I've been working the bugs out of the firewall. Funny how much you can do with Android phone being Android is Linux, so is my server, and my home PC. Something a iPhone can't do.

Welcome to the family...

Quadzilla is worth it. EGTs could also be bad final ratio. What axle do you have? What sized tires?

800 RPM is standard idle speed. If the APPS sensor is tripping the idle validation switch it should be 800 RPM with +/- 10 RPM.

@Quadzilla Power here is the overlap issue. Included phone info.

Yeah level up and down are too small on my phone and always getting the gauge selection box.

Good idea...

You could tag @Quadzilla Power and discuss those problems. Me personally the display layout is poor and over lapping. Doesn't layout properly on my Samsung S21

I'm not sure how that would work being the high bar MAP sensor will be miscalibrated for the voltages provided to the ECM.

Might be a firewall issue here. @JAG1 got snagged, the @W-T was another and I'm trying to catch when and what the trigger is that doing it.

What your seeing is the Dicor coating peeling up. The EPDM rubber is still good on top but the Dicor coating is peeling right off.

Using the Quadzilla for a boost gauge isn't a really good idea. Even mine is skewed but on the upper end more so than the starting edge. At 47 PSI on the ISSPro it was reporting 69 PSI in the logs. I can see why you want to get better on the lower end because it impact when your power comes on. Personally it good to use the gauge to check for MAP sensor performance be be aware I doubt you'll get it accurate over the entire span. Yeah I would look at getting a new MAP sensor. I not going to suggest Cummins OE sensor either. More I keep digging the more I find that Cummins actually doesn't produce. (Head Gaskets, Thermostats, etc.) but you pay higher price for junk parts.

Still working at getting packed up. Yeah got the A/C cover pulled and its shattered pretty good. Got the carpet shampooed, and started wiping down everything in the RV. I'm still on track to getting out in the morning I'm going to start calling about the A/C cover and bearings. Yeah don't look at the crappy Dicor topping that is peeling up. I'm not going to listen to RV specialist anymore about, "Oh it gotta be Dicor coating or you'll ruin the rubber" which is BS. I'll snow roof it this summer.

Test the injectors... If you wanna do a compression test while the injectors are out you can verify the cylinder health. Worth it to know what the health of the cylinder and piston. I just a member call me about his truck and the amount of blow by and losing the tappet gasket. After doing the compression test he was low on 5 and 6 (funny the too hottest cylinders). So he's into doing a full rebuild. Sad to say...

I would consider pulling those injectors and having them pop tested. +50HP injectors shouldn't really smoke at all, remember as pop pressure falls the flow rate will increase, timing is advanced, fuel spray has bigger droplets. I'm smoke free with +150HP injectors but popped at 320 bar, even currently I'm back down to near 310 bar just judging idle engine load. So new it idled at 13 to 14%, then now it idles at 6 to 7%. Yes it's possible to lose 10 bar worth of pop pressure in the first 20k to 30k miles, I've seen it happen to a few members. Doesn't matter who builds the injectors. Just remember the lower limit is 293 bar according to the Dodge FSM.

+50HP should be popped at 310 bar. If your doing +150HP I would pop 320 bar.

Now put some miles on it. Verify it doing good.

Well I've got water system primed. Now to do some cleaning and repairs. I got brakes fixed on Beast. I'm on track to going on this trip.

@First Diesel Middleton shout back to see if you made it to your destination?