ram350002

I wonder how long the replacement will last,

Finally decided on commercail grade e range 235/85-16. I was also concerned the g range tires would pound the 5'er the death. The jump up to a 16" wheel/tire gives me all kinds of options. Next step is to get it across the scales when it's loaded to calculate the correct air pressure. The ride quality can be adjusted pretty easy with these tires, but the side walls on the g's would have been too stiff to do anything about. As to the axles, they are 5K each and I won't exceed that. As stated above, I'd just be trading one problem for another. I just don't trust the current crop of trailer tires to run long distances at anything appraoching max rated load and don't want to experience the damage from a blow out.

Don't know if this will help anyone, but this link has some good info for anyone wanting to know more about solar and some of the short comings of some of the equipment out there. The guy who posted the info spent a lot of time/effort sorting through the what/how and has put together a pretty helpful read. It's about the most up front and objective discription of solar power I've come across so far. http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/the-rv-battery-charging-puzzle-2/

A lot of marine diesels use air start systems. A central air systems is plumbed to each engine and at least 1 air acumulator is isolated from the system as an emergency backup. In some applications batteires are only used on the emergency generators to limit the number of lead acid batteries. It pretty cool when you hear 6-8 engines firing up.

Like many others, I got tired of trailer tires barely rated for the load, and even cheaper quality trailer tires. I wanted to upgrade my existing 15" tires but was some what limited by the 6 x 5.5" rims. The goal was to upgrade to 16" wheels but I found the selection of 6 x 5.5" rims max'ed out @ 3200lbs then I came acrossed these: http://www.samsclub.com/sams/greenball-spoke-16x6-white/prod3110109.ip?navAction= They are rated for 3760lbs so you can mount G rated tires on them and NEVER have to worry about blowouts. Better still they only run $43.00 and NO shipping charge. Not much in the way of styling but they are functional. I plan on pairing them with some 235/85-16 tires. At this point I'm not sure if I wil;l go with the cheaper Load Range E or more expensive Load Range G but regardless, I will have a significant safety margin. It's about a $70 pre tire increase to jump up to these G rated tires: http://geostartrucktire.com/tires/steerhighway/geostar-g574 I would be going from 2540lbs per tire to 3750lbs per tire and a total increase of almost 5,000 lbs. A 50% increase over my current rating which will eliminate most any chance of a costly blowout on my 5er as long as they are properly maintained. Yes, I know my axles aren't rated for anything near this weight, but it's the tire shredding and taking out the side of my RV that I'm worried about. Hope this info helps others out. P.S. Received them 4 days after my online order, less then $250.00 for a set of 5.

Fastlane, I need lines 1, 3 & 4. Please PM me so we can work something out. Thx

My Con-OFE was the same way, after 20K it didn't get any better so I yanked it out and went with a 1947-OK-HD. Both got new flywheels. I'd like a clutch that will hold but not jerk like crazy and am hesitant to go with a dual disk on my 6 speed because of shifting/noise issues.

Could this be a key fob programming issue? I know that they can be programed to do various things with the door locks/lights/chirps etc. On my 02 SLT when I unlock the doors using the fob the dome light goes out as soon as I start the truck. The programming procedures are pretty easy to find on the web. Hope this helps.

You can also overfill the NV5600 by pumping the oil into the hole where the back-up light (reverse) switch threads into. It's high enough that it will take the extra qt and it's easier then pulling the shifter out if you are just adding 1-2 qts. If you are doing 8, the shifter may be easier. I have FAST Coolers and drain through the temp sender that way I don't have to worry about resealing the bolt threads. With the coolers I fill to 8.5 qts.

I want to see the "auto" version. Sounds like the bomb.

I would venture a guess that your edge cts shorted out, took the fuse/radio out then when you changed the fuse the short "smoked" the cts. Edge should warranty the replacement just like a new one unless there warranty specifically states one time replacements. Just my 2 cents.

I just installed a set of RV275's, For such a small claimed improvement it made a dramatic difference and also get 2-3 mpg out of the deal (haven't got enough time to calculate exactly how much). I only had 80K on the stock injectors but the rv275's made them seem old and tired. The difference between a box and injectors is you can turn the box off, but you can also not push on the accelerator pedal as much. Don't think you will get the mpg gain a small set of quality injectors will give you and the cost is reasonable @ $300.00. They pay for themselves in 20-25 tanks of fuel. Moparman has very good practical advice and I have certainly benefited from it.

I really appreciate all the input. I'll give it a couple days and see if it is in fact just fuel seeping out between the o-ring and the nut. Could very well be since it is a very small amount of fuel. Ran it around today for 20-30 minutes and it just created a damp spot about 2 inches in diameter on a folded paper rag.

(Torque till you see stars) I've read ALL the related threads and I've tried everything I can think of to get 3 fuel lines to seal at the connector tube joint. Connector tubes got new o-rings lubed with engine oil and pressed in by hand until "click" indicating fully seated past o-ring. Inspected the compression ends of the fuel lines and connector tubes and no signs of damage or over tightening. I lightly polished the fuel line ends with scotchbrite pad. Hand tightened all lines to ensure proper alignment and then bleed the system of air. After bleeding torqued to 28 ft/lb and have small weeping leak at 1, 3 & 4 (go figure, all the connections used for bleeding air from system). Since then I've, loosened the nuts and fuel line clamps, hand tightened and re-torqued & increased torqued to 30 ft lbs then 33 ft/lbs twice and nothing has stopped the weeping leaks. Is there anything else to do at this point before I just start cranking on them? I'm fairly certain (99.99%) the o-rings aren't damaged which only leaves the compression joint as the source of the leak. I let it set for 36 hours to see if there was going to be a hard starting issue and it fired right up. I hate to just start reefing on them because I know better but at this point the only other option is new fuel lines and connector tubes with o-rings. Sorry for the long post but want you to know I've tried all routine suggestions.

I have the 6 speed, always start in 2nd unless loaded/towing or real steep hill.

I installed a PacBrake PRXB that is air actuated, But I wanted the onboard air for my air bags. Definitely wouldn't tow heavy with out the piece of mind.

Who'd you get your 60's from? Are they clean or a little hazy? Thx

I'd pick up a used HX35W ($200-$300) to replace your HY35 and rebuild it yourself. Rebuild kit is $80-$100 and you can download a comprehensive Holset rebuild guide online. Total cost approx. $300.00 and 2-4 hours of your time. Only special tools required are snap ring pliers and they don't cost much. A HX35 will go nicely with 40-75hp injectors, EGT's should never be an issue, and should improve fuel economy 1-2mpg. A boost elbow for you waste gate set between 30-35psi and you are screamin'

I had a rebuilt caliper start sticking less then 100 miles after install. Spoke to a brake company and he/they blamed it on poor piston/caliper tolerances specific to dodge truck calipers but he was also trying to sell lap mated calipers for $100.00 a pop. You might want to exchange it for another unit and see if it's just the rebuild. I can see a rebuild unit piston hanging up and not allowing the seal to pull it back. Don't know of anything else that would cause only one caliper to stick. Hope this helps

The biggest expense is the press itself and the adapters/sleeves are a little cheaper comparatively speaking. Don't know if a kit would be cheaper then buying them individually. I would imagine what quality press you can get away with depends a lot on the amount of rust, areas that salt the roads lead to more difficult removals. I spent the extra money for a press from Quad 4x4 and had no issues with removal/install but they were VERY tight. After I torqued the press down and gave it a good wacked they broke less with bang and this was with little to no rust. Most of the loaner presses are cheap quality, or not "truck duty" and I have read of many of them bending or stripping out.I heard one of the reasons for the change in ball joints from 1999 to 2000 was wear related, but don't quote me on this one. Doesn't look like they learned much though because I've also heard the 2003-4 AAM trucks have premature failure issues on their ball joints, geometry issues supposedly. The change may also have been required for the change in brake design for the removable rotors.

All I was looking for was a different cap, Thx everyone for all the wonderful suggestions. The original question still stands, does anyone know a company that sells the cap I'm looking for. If you know of anyone I would appreciated it if you would provide that info. If no one knows of a company that can provide the product then I will keep looking. I started this thread with one question and only Ryan has provided input on the original question, Are there other ways to accomplish the same task, in almost every case the answer is yes. This is the way I choose to accomplish the task. Is this the same way you do it, based on all the input apparently not. Sorry, but I reserve the right to be different.

I always thought they made the seats more comfortable also. Not real noticeable until you remove them then it feels like you're sitting on a board.

The "bleed" on the pump is installed as a way for techs to monitor FP and is not ideally located to serve as an air bleed. Air always accumulates at the highest point in fluid systems and is where air bleeds if installed are located. 8 days after a filter change my fuel gauge is still fluctuating from trapped air. After I finally get all the air out, the gauge is rock steady.

A guy over on CF had a regulator fail and blow the top off his stock fuel filter housing. Should see the photos of the plastic cap, tore most of the threads off. Company was good about replacing the regulator, and no one has a good idea what lead to the regulator failure. Company Rep said it was the first failure of this type he had heard of. It is a switch to see a pump that can easily produce that much pressure when the electric pumps can't even seem to get out of their own way these days. I'm looking forward to a write up.

No offense taken, just trying to keep the focus on the topic. I asked a simple question and got lots of answers and questions to an unasked (but frequently asked) different question. Been turning wrenches for 4 decades and I'll be the first to admit I don't have all the answers. That's why I check this forum often, it's a huge wealth of info. I also understand that everyone is trying to help and it's difficult to gauge each members knowledge/experience. They don't give a score for that. Thx