Dieselfuture

I wouldn't worry about that, clean engine though

I don't have any grounds directly under the battery, mine are towards the front bottom and up higher also front, pretty much above the bottom ones.

You can pop them a bit higher, maybe 310-315 just my guess. I went with 320 and I'm betting now I'm around 300-305, my load is around 6-7 now was 12-13 few years back.

Any shop that knows what they're doing should be able to pop test and adjust pressure to whatever you tell them to. It's simply comes down to how much someone cares to help you. With everyone's having a smartphone a guy that does pop testing can easily lay them out on a piece of paper saying what Pop pressure each injector was and is now.

I've had good luck with both

Not sure if I'm in favor of this new technology, definitely not for an average Joe stuff. I kinda like the old relay stuff. Guess you can only cram so many relays in for all these options. My tdi Jetta is same way and these evil swines make you get special software and tools to work on them, but I do get 50mpg pretty easy in summer.

I think if you clean it really good with carb cleaner and blow it dry then get some of that rtv in the gap as far as you can, it should be good. It may last for years who knows. I had rtv in my head stud for 7 years to keep oil from coming out, finally changed the Head gasket few years back when it started dumping oil out.

Generally you want to do it 2 times, it's called drawdowns. Once before the well kicks on so the water had time to fill the void space called cone of depression, then second time right before the well shuts off to see the lowest that it can draw down. It's probably more important on big city wells like we have some are 1500 feet deep, but same principle can be used on house wells to keep an eye on water levels and pump condition. Lots of things can be done to get more water/yeld it of well, one is simple chlorination and recycling the water back in the well, called well shocking. The other more expensive is using acid to get the formation cleaned up.

In reality if the well doesn't run out of water and pump sucks air and overheats along with doing damage to impellers from cavitation then it should be fine. It gets cooled by the water. If you have paperwork for the pump check amp rating and measure amps, that will tell you more about it. If there's a drag on the pump from worn bearings amps will be higher. Also if water table drops then head drops and amps should be slightly higher than when there's plenty of water above it. Not sure if you have a separate tube that sometimes ran down with the pump so you can put compressed air in it and with a gauge for psi you can calculate how many feet the water is above the pump, 2.31 feet for each psi. So if you pump air in to the tube which is usually 1/4" and have a gauge read 30psi then you know there's 70 feet of water above the pump.

What he said ^^^ I used a shop vac when scraping the gasket off, that way everything was sucked up as soon as it was lose, it's a but of paint in the but to have a scraper in one hand and hose in the other bending over the engine bit it's a piece of mind.

There's a lot you can do, but at very least surface the head, pressure check, check guides for slop, I would recommend machining for newer top hat style valve seals to avoid possible seals blowing off the guides in the future and get destroyed by retainers. If the head if cracked you could possibly look at getting a 6.7 head on there. Studs would be a good idea. Check trunions too, what rockers privet on, they usually get galed up, you can get aftermarket ones or do like @dripley get used set from newer model that have oil grove in them, forgot what year 2012?

Wow I would also think that the plastic piece would wear out before the metal, that's crazy.

When we lived close to that town we couldn't afford anything there taxes were at least double from where we lived, now that we moved we pay like 4 times more just can't win. I really don't know anymore what I'm doing, just taking it one day at a time for now.

I got few oil changes on the shelf, I thought most oil companies say it's good for 5 years in unopened container though. Not sure if I buy in to that, maybe just a way for them to keep you from having too much. What will we do with all the oil if diesel is unavailable? Burn it in the tank? Only so much we can prep for... I think leaving on your own land growing your own food is where it's at if it gets that bad, which it certainly could looking at the world now. Most people around me including my wife think I'm crazy talking about it, time will tell. But if billy himself sold most of his high tech investments and got a bunch of farmland says a lot too. Idk

Can't see pictures,but good to know it made it **** better. I got one of those and haven't changed it yet, may do it now that you say it helps. I said shift not sure how it turned to shiit

For longer storage don't use any ethanol gas and add seafoam not stabil

I got to be honest I haven't used any 2cycle for a while since I've been running bio blend, seems to be everywhere around here. Truck seems to run good on it, time will tell.

Looking on rock auto they have oring kits too, thinking of getting an Edelman one as my housing is damp, I'm sure just a matter of time before big oring leaks.

My first thought is injectors also, that or low compression. I'd start with injectors, depending on your goals and go from there.

Sounds like an ignition switch Or bad wires under steering column, do you use tilt option much

I put in spicers a few years back but I got them from local Sadler shop that rebuilds axles and heavy transmission/transferase maybe they carry a better stock, so far no movement maybe it was old stock

Pump low boost 15-20 Boost schale 40 Low boost timing redact 5 Light throttle advance low 20s Light throttle load limit 20-25 Timing 14,18,22,28,30 Try it see what you think

I ordered one a while back but it never showed. Does anyone have a link or a picture to one? I may try it again, I don't learn the first time

I'm pretty sure you can have both water and oil leak in the front of the head gasket. When I changed mine it was only leaking oil from the front middle bolt. Most water leaks are right by the thermostat housing. You can probably go for a while without changing it.