KATOOM

Its been a few months..... Moparman have you finished your new headlights? I'm very interested to know how the beam works for you because I want to replace my factory Sport headlights due to the constant fight with yellowing, but I'm leery what to get because I've heard many times that aftermarket housings can offer a poor beam...even though they look the same as OEM.

So basically I'm presuming that given the limited data I can find or hear regarding, there is very little understanding of CK-4, and/or no experience with how it will treat older motors. As I started this thread, I don't have anything against new specifications as long as it doesn't prove to be detrimental to my older truck engine.

I'll take that as a compliment.....

Over the years I've found that many people are misinformed about engine oil and what its doing and why it looks the way it looks. dripley, I agree..... If I changed my oil based on color then I'd be changing it far too often since it can be pretty dark within a few thousand miles. This isnt because its "cooked" or sludgy either but rather because oil collects and suspends contaminants (soot/particles) which are created during combustion and/or oxidation. Totally normal for detergent oil. And used oil thats still amber colored is NOT always a sign that things are working correctly. And to make the situation more confusing, a turbo engine will contaminate the oil through combustion faster due to the lack of cylinder pressure during idle and mild around town driving. The oil in this truck was turning darker really fast during the first 75k miles or so. Then after that it tends to remain more amber colored but still is black by 5000 miles. I starter towing heavier and more often with it during those later miles too..... Dang it, I'm hijacking my own thread.

We're seemingly hijacking this thread.....but I'm becoming more interested in what you're alluding to. Is most of your frustration from Pacific Fuel Injection?.....or other things? Sounds like you want to vent some more.

Thanks, Interesting story..... But I thought your comment was directed at Chip from Bluechipdiesel.

Please elaborate..... Who, when, what happened...? Well.....yes thats true in the sense that its no longer a thin plastic disc but rather metal/metal over plastic. So I guess it should be called a "separator".

Thus the reason why I didnt go with Chip's more expensive Special X either.

The classification was created last December 2016 but its supposed introduction date was December 2017. At least thats what I was reading.....

Excuse my haphazard post if this has already by discussed, but I felt that it would be something us guys with older trucks would care about. That being the introduction of CK-4 oil replacing CJ-4. Apparently its an issue for Ford whereby they claim accelerated wear in their engines with this new oil. Anyone have any experience or knowledge of what this new CK-4 classification is all about.....or why it was introduced? I dont care other than I dont want my "older" engine to wear out for sake of environmentalism.

I couldnt say.....but you do have a point.

Chip explained to me years ago that the "Special X" was their own build assembled with the most precision tolerance new components, put together by whom Blue Chip contracted with. The higher precision of the assembly was supposed to help this VP be more efficient and offer a very slight increase in HP. But back then the Special X was around $400 more than his regular SO/HO pumps.

Interesting research.....

An honest answer is so rare..... How many people actually drive the same truck with different EB models/brands to ever have any real apples to apples comparisons. Most just have whatever EB their truck came with from the PO, or have the only EB they've ever had because no one is going to purchase more than one $1000+ part just because.

Thats why this site is superior..... Well not the only reason.

No it doesnt. Some forums wont show the signature when accessing through mobile devices.

I also remember hearing/reading something which states that the LoadLeash wont fit on the 5.9 merely due to lack of space. I would presume thats only addressing the Dodge Cummins application..... Also, excluding the fact that the LL ties into the ECM, is the 6.7 head the same as the 5.9?

Not sure what you mean..... The "Jake" brake is merely the nickname given to the old Jacobs system. People mistakenly use it when talking about all exhaust brakes or engine brakes. Kinda along the same way people refer to tissue paper as "Kleenex".

Its my understanding that the Pacbrake "LoadLeash" is not a stand alone device but rather works in conjunction with the VGT turbo. And no, its not available for the 5.9 engines. My 10+ year old Pacbrake exhaust brake works great though.....

It would be best understanding what year/model truck you have, how many miles on it, whats done to it, and any other modifications which may allow members to help better.

Good story. Reminds me of what it was like when I was a kid.....

What are those???

Post a picture of what it sits like. Someone will be able to confirm or compare its ride height.

Make sure to update the thread on how this new system works out for you. I'm on the fence about adding solar.....

I agree with Mike in that its equally important to have everything else up to snuff.....not just batteries. Interstate or whatever brand you opt for, my only avenue for choosing 65's was not so much the added 200 combined CCA but rather the reserve capacity. The RC is an important role in how much "true" capacity a battery has to offer and how much depletion that battery will undertake during events like repeated grid heater cycles. Plus I felt there must be a reason the 3rd gens used 65's. Its a well understood issue that if someone lives in a cold climate and uses their truck for repeated quick trips during the day, the grid heaters will make short work of the battery capacity as the grids will perform a pre-heat and running cycle every time you start the truck below 60* ambient. So allowing the charging system ample time to replenish the battery bank is best to offer the best battery reliability. Just food for thought.....