mulcher812

So was there something wrong with it? and yeah I already installed mine. Not sure if I like it yet...

If you have a scanner that can read the mass air flow sensor and the o2 sensors make sure they are moving evenly. I've had this problem on an 05 imprezza 2.5rs and found that it was a bad mass air flow sensor.

So there should be 4 wires on the relay. Ground Power from the battery Power to the pump Power from the wiper fuse

Wow it cast me $100 US just to have Chrysler plug that thing into a truck much less owner one...

If your going to do it. Do the BD and make sure it's the 29.3 race certified.

Yeah but it's a little difficult. You have to remove the turbo and tighten the rod on the waist gate. If you decide to do this you need to drill out the little dimple on the actuator before you turn the rod.

If it comes undone it should throw a CEL but if its just loose it could cause defueling or other problems.

Maybe he is expecting company??

I agree with TFaoro if you have high EGT's then you have a boost leak. If your EGT's are running low then there may not be a leak you may not have enough fuel to push it that high. I would also check your MAP sensor and make sure the edge is hooked in so you get the boost fooling. With out it you can have a defueling issue going on. On the HX35 don't push it past 35psi or you will be out of the mapping.

With my set up if I stand on it I can hold 35psi till I have to pull my foot out of it (EGT's ). On stock sticks with out an Edge Comp just on the Smarty I could only hit about 28-30psi and maintain. For your set up I thing your probably good.

Yeah deep as in 27k for the machine and equipment to do the repairs

The alternative is to find something to plug the intake of the turbo and use an air compressor to pressurize the system. This is how I have tested for several boost leaks. Just make sure the valves are closed and don't go over 60psi. Most of the leaks I have found show up around 35-40psi.

the filter is high but if it starts to siphon fuel it will just drain the level down about an inch an then you have a hard start.

I have done 2 BD Super B's and if you have the 4" exhaust its pretty easy. more of a pan with out the 4" cause that is what it wants to breathe...

If you are running the HX35 you are good to 35psi with out damaging anything. That usually clears up most of it for sure.

Do you know how much boost you are running? If it isn't set right then you could just not have enough air flow. This will act just like a boost leak and you will see the coal roll like no other...

Kerley fill out your sig or give us some more info on your truck. It hard for us to help when we don't know anything about your truck.

No the exhaust housing has to be machined to 63.5mm. The compressor wheel comes with the cartridge (center section of the turbo) and you need to buy the correct compressor housing from Bob.

Then reset your top speed to 250mph and give him hell...

Well I know DAP sells a banjo bolt upgrade kit. The filter housing has a drain on it I would check and make sure it isn't slightly open. The other thing is have you done anything to the truck lately? I think I would start by priming the pump then injectors and see what it does. If it's the Tee behind the lift pump this will drain to the tank and you may or may not smell or see the venting.

I have the same turbo you have and I'm in the middle of doing the HE351 upgrade. Now for myself I was able to find the turbo for $200 the down pipe for $70 and the hot air charge pipe from DAP $190. This turbo is capable of 450 - 500hp and 45lb of boost. There is a whole 70+ page thread on the CF forum about these turbos and how well they work. The other alternative is an HX35/40 hybrid. Bob at BAE.com can get you a cartridge and compressor housing for about $450. Then you take your turbo apart and have the exhaust housing opened up to handle the new exhaust turbine. This will be a direct re-install without any modifications or extra pieces. But have you tried kicking your truck out of overdrive on the hills? I know I have an auto and climbing a good grade (6%) I kick mine out of overdrive and do 60 up the hill and never brake 900* and that's with my Edge comp on 5x2 and Smarty on 4. Now with a 8500lb trailer behind me I'll see 1100-1200 same power levels but a speed is about 50-55.

Yeah that's about all the pump tap does it re-works the map and doesn't play by the rules of the stock tuning. Injectors do the same thing but only because they are mechanical. The Smarty will give you more grunt power off the bottom and help with towing. I have run the Smarty on level 9 for towing and the edge on 5x5 there is a definite difference in how the power gets to the ground between them.

Check the snap ring. I know one side is beveled and it should be toward the cartridge if it's upside down it may cause a leak there.

I run an Edge Comp on 5x3 and a Smarty on lvl4 both and I have 100hp injectors. It is a great combo for me and I still tow 10,000# a few times a month on these settings. Never have any EGT issues as long as i keep it out of overdrive. I have a set of gauges and a pillar that has trans temp, boost and EGT's in it as well as a mechanical fuel pressure gauge in the truck. I have run the edge by itself and the smarty both are very different systems the smarty does more on the bottom end and the edge does more on the top end. It really depends on where you want the power from. If you want more grunt power get a smarty if you want more top end power get an Comp.

Well it happened to me today as well. Edge set at 5x5 and Smarty on lvl4. Cruising down the highway at about 67 everyone slowed down and as I did also got down to about 55ish and traffic cleared up everyone speed up as I rolled on the throttle I blacked out 3 lanes of traffic with out even trying. So I dropped down to 5x4 then it happened again so I dropped it down to 5x3. So now I'm just as confused