dually

I think it will be a fun job. It will keep him out of trouble for a wile.

Jammers are junk. If you can find some 275's or 40 over rv injectors i think you would be happy. Mike has a set he should chime in, the way it sounds he is happy. When i ran them i did 18.5 mpg in a dually. That was all freeway miles with edge drag box on 5x5.

The tranny harness to the pcm , i have an auto so i dont know what you have. Everything under the hood.

Please feel free to add or correct this list.Put the cam in the freezer over nite.First with the key out, turn windshield wiper on slow speed. Turn the key on so the wipers start moving, turn the key off when the wipers are full up. This will help you get the pushrods from 5 and 6 out without hitting the wiper arms. Remove the plastic cowl and the 2 rubber grimits.Disconnect batterys if you want (i dont)Remove the valve cover. 10mmI like to get small plastic bags with zip ties mark all the bags 1,2,3,4,5,6 ,start in front remove the rockers, 14mm nut on the pushrods.10mm on the rockers.Some like to remove the side cover to see the dowl rods into the tappetsTap the wood dowls into the tappets. Tie the intake and exhaust together for each cylinder. Some like rubberbands,i use zip ties. You will have to remove them later on one at a time if you replace the tappets and you should with a new cam.Unplug the wire harness under the bumper.remove the bumper.18mm The ac condenser will swing out of the way.Remove the tranny cooler.Drain and remove the radiator.Unhook the intercooler boots and remove the intercooler.Remove everything in front on the front cover.Take a pc of cardboard make a dot on the cardboard to represent the bolt pattern of the front cover,take a small screwdriver and punch holes in each one. The bolts are not all the same they need to go back on the same place you removed them.Be care ful with this step here. remove the cam retainer bolts 2 of them DONT drop them in the front cover.Make sure all the dowl rods are up because the tappets sit on the cam, and tied.Real slow and steady keeping the cam shaft centered best you can,pull it out.DONT bang it on the soft cam bearings.Remove the gear. Put it in a press to remove. Save the keyway You should get a new one with the cam, i could be wrong it has been a long time. Clean it off with soap and water. Put in the oven for 45 min on 300* (My wife loved that part)Grab the cam set the keyway in get the gear it should drop on of it only goes on a little use a press to finish the job DONT hit it with a hammer. Slide the cam tray in the cam hole lift up on one of the dowl rods. Use the hook in the kit to bring it out.After they are all out, drop a string down the tappet hole, use the hook to get it out put the cork in the new tappet.Put lube on the tappet and from the top pull the string until it is home,now turn the cam tray 180* so it holds the tappet in place then pull on the string out, put another dowl rod in the new tappet and tie down with zip tie.

Check the water/fuel ,try to drain it. Are you in a pinch ? I have some rv injectors i can let you USE but i want them back when you are finished with them. They are in fine shape and were freshened up 2000 miles ago. I can talk you through how to swap them out if you dont know how. You can use your valve cover bolt to remove the injectors it works like a charm...let me know.

One thing i know you will have to cut 2 holes in the cowl and get rubber gromits. If you ever need to get the push rods out it will never happen without the holes in the cowl. You should cut them before the engine is in. You will need the rear end speed sensor so the rear end and the tranny can communicate.

We should all collectively do a write up on it. (Cam install) Mine went smooth. The tappets were time consuming. We could help one another. It is not vary hard. I have a dowl kit i could loan out. I dont have the cam tray i used a friends. Some people use a cut pcv tube, getting string and a cork is no problem. What do you guys think do you want to start a write up ?

You know, i do this all the time. I should block all 3rd gen threads form my computer.

In my estimation you should have no play. http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/stco.html The bd stabilizer is a copy of the original DSS stabibizer. The titan 3rd gen track bar is a true bolt on and strong.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104129&highlight=188%2F220 Post 16, and you are correct. Running 4500 ? Do you have a p pump? I installed a maxspool a few years ago and like it. I would like to dyno my maxspool and then the 181/210. Post 30 is kinda a bummer. I just removed my .020 hg, loss of low end grunt and it hates the cold.

You will need to cut pistons. That is not a drop in cam. You dont want the killer spank.

You need the s03 for a 2nd gen. Do you have another truck other than the one in the sig ?

How old is the pump ?

Yes

Years ago Bob reprogrammed the ecm. There are a few of them still around. Maybe your truck is one of them. You could send Bob your smarty and the ecm he will fix it up.

It is really no big deal. Just pull on the spring. Chances are when you get the bigger spring it will not up the psi until you pull it. I was worried at first, so i called fass had the (1020) iirc, spring sent and i still streched it. If you dont want to strech the spring put a washer in it, same difference. Dont put the washer in the hole put it in the fitting then set the spring in it, then put the spring in the hole of the fass.Dont let the black ball fall out.

Some like 8/18 it will run better. Mine are 7/17

You could get a 478 to put under your 62. Call E.D. them guys make good stuff. He may want to rework your 62 also.

Glad you got it. I went round and round with a pump shop about the key in mine. My key was fine the pump was junk.

What was the problem ?

I think most of the people figure a grand and 5 hrs with a chance of it not lasting. If i had the cash i would do it.

A few more and you can have new boots.

Chip said he tryed to move the vp computer away for more cooling and it didnt work for him. I am sure if someone worked at it there could be a way.

I talked with chip about this last year. He told me that if fuel is run in the vp after shut off it will keep the vp cooler. The problem comes after shut off. The engine heat dissipates into the vp and it is cooled by fuel.

I forgot all about the nose of the truck down thing. If i remember correctly that has something to do with fuel draining out. I hope you get it up and running.