dually

I feel like i respect everyone in this world. I like how she came back to barf out the next verse of her gospel after she felt she didnt empty herself the first time.. I like how she asked what do you do for a living. Class act lady. I am glad that didnt happen to me.

Factory bolts are fine up near 40lbs. However some run big boost with bolts but they torque them up in 5 lb increments twice. What i mean by that is, do all 26 at 5 then again. Then 10 twice and so on. That is with a new hg. Now i have studs. What i did is put a fresh hg on then i did all of them at 40,then 60, then 80, then 100,then 125, then 130. I also did all of them twice. The reason is, after all at 40 the first one is no longer at 40. Thats just what i do and it seems to work. As for retorque i loosen one and put arp lube on both sides of the washer and threads and do the 40,60,80,100,125,130.

When that happened to me it was the apps.

I will look this morning. If i have it it's yours. --- Update to the previous post... I found the part.Mopar part # 1-05012991aa. Check it please. It thats what you need pm me your address.

I could be wrong but this is my take. On the 99's you have a tone ring on the crank for the crank sensor. The 02 just has a cam sensor. Maybe your ecm could be reflashed for the 02?

I was changing parts a wile ago. I just may have one. It is used but works. If i have it do you want it ? It is free.

You have a good point about people on other sites when you ask a question. I hate that. We all had to start somehow. So are you going to try to,( i think they call it lock stitch )the 53 block. I read that you drill small holes in the block to stop the crack then patch it somehow. Or you going to get another block ?

Welcome. Hey, ask away. When you do we all learn.

To me, thats the good stuff.

I think i fall into that category .

I used a 60 thousand shim. It has been that way for years. Every time i pull the valve cover the rocker cups are full of oil,so it is pumping good. However you have me concerened about the bypass. In the cummins manual it tells to check the spring pressure.Ok ,on edit i think i figured this puppy out. So my oil is not being filtered after 65psi. I now wonder if i can change it to 75. Question about the marine engine filter housing. I have seen pictures of the marine filter housing it seems not to have a bypass valve at all. Is that true ?

Today at 75* outside on a hot engine at 60 mph i have 68 lbs oil pressure, the manual gauge is on top of the filter. I too can see 100+ on the manual gauge when cold. I dont understand this pre set 65lb thing. Does someone have a picture of it ? Is it the pressure relief spring in the filter housing ? Because i was told to shim out that spring for more pressure.

The nearest shop here offers the total fluid change but it is over 100.00. When i do the 2nd change the fluid is good looking. I use what the tranny builder recommends, valvoline max life, The stuff stinks like burnt fluid when you open the cap on a new bottle. I always get a kick out of it when a buddy comes over and get's a wiff of my tranny stick. They respond by saying "dude change the fluid" then i get a new bottle and give them a wiff.

I can hit 100+ . This is how. 50* outside,warm up for 5 min, 1500rpm in first gear. I shimmed my pressure spring about .060. --- Update to the previous post... mostly same as me except your cold temp.

For what it is worth my tranny guy said once a year. If you think about it most of us just drop the pan and do a filter change. For the most part thats fine, thats what i do. However the converter still has fluid in it. This may sound like overkill but this is what i do, Pull the tranny drain plug,drop the pan,change the filter and refill. Drive a day. pull the pan plug, drain and refill...Call it good.

Built trannys are fine in everyday use. They are just built better and stronger plane and simple. If you change the torque converter stall speed to help light a bigger turbo like an s400 or something you may have trouble in a dd. If you leave the converter at a stock stall speed i see no problem.

If you want you can have them machine the head for cr style valve seals.They have a hat style and the spring holds them down so if you ever get crazy with the boost they wont pust up on you. Are you going to have them cut o rings into the head ? --- Update to the previous post... On a side note when they mag the head you will have cracks and thats ok. I had a head looked at and it had 4 or so cracks and i was happy. My old head had many,many cracks but didnt leak.

This just needs to be said !! When you call the dealer and they give you a price say, "Is that the best you can do on that" Then if you can call another dealer. I get so many parts from my dealer i get a special price. Nothing sells for list price any more.Some parts guy's like to move parts. I even tryed this at a ford dealer that i never had been to before and it works. Dont be shy friends.

Thats good news. I tryed to explane myself with the pump rebuild the best i could. It is really not to bad. I am glad your wife could help. Mine helps out once in a wile as well.

Did you fix it?

I did the box last year. I went to the dealer for the parts because they give me a deal on all my stuff. I used jack stands to get the front end (tires off the ground) Remove the nut Keep track of how it comes apart and the direction the seals come out. Remove the nut set aside. you need a snap ring removal tool. They look like this. Get the ring out. Now put the washer back on and the nut only about 2 turns. Get a pan under the truck steering box. Start the truck and really move the wheel side to side I mean hard. Have someone looking under. All the guts will pop out. Shut off truck. Now you have to remove the nut and the guts. Look at how it comes off. Put new parts in. Fill with Power steering fluid not tranny fluid (some do bad idea) Now with the engine off but the key on turn the wheel side to side. It will get the air out, Re fill Start the truck do the same refill as needed. Edit: i cant seem to remove the last line if this post above the picture . Then get the ring out. --- Update to the previous post... When you first remove the nut there is a washer under it then the snap ring. Get the snap ring out then put the big washer back on then the nut just 2 turns. The fluid will push the seals out when you start the truck and turn the wheel. This will force all the parts onto the nut,you dont have to dig the seals out. There is no ballbearings that will fall out, at least on my 01 there were none. The hardest part is finding the snap ring size. My tool came with several different ones. Funny thing, a finishing nail worked for me, i just ground both sides of the nail.

Some time ago i was thinking about doing a new radio. I went to one of them shops the boom boom place that the kids like. He told me he could make the wheel controlls work. I never followed through with it. He tryed to sell me this massive thing that fit under my rear seat it had 2 12" speakers. I passed.

I have an aftermarket manual gauge the probe is on top of the head. The factory gauge is within 4 or 5* of the after market. How these guys are telling you is spot on.

My tranny is funny like that also. I can drop the pan,do a filter change start it up ,fill it to the line drive and when it gets hot i only have 1/2 of the line covered.