Cowboy

Did you have to add this to get it to work? if (ThrottlePosition > 15) loop(); //if throttle position is more than %1.5 then exit EBmanage I'd have to see your code, but I didn't think it should be necessary. Would you be able to attach your code to your post, for me to take a looky see? Also, I don't want to mislead you, I am by no means good at programming. Most my stuff is other peoples stuff spliced together. If I say one thing, and Ed says another. Screw me and listen to Ed lol.

You're adjusting the viens based on a 0-49 psi boost level, but have your pot mapped from 0-100 psi. Would that cause the problem you're having? Also, add this in the EBManage right below the first "if" but on top of the other "if else" Another EDIT. I'm happy to help, I'll likely be going down this road shortly as well.

Hmm, I thought the difference was the 24 valves. Interesting! Both mine and my brothers are 215hp 12 valves, so they should be about the same. Mines got a resonator, his is straight piped. Dang, running out of pics.

It does look much cleaner without it, I've got a gasser cab so it didn't come with any sort of sound stuff in the engine bay, didn't realize it though until it was set on the 4x4 frame. And because the engine was already in, it was a little late to monkey with it. So I'll likely be pulling the engine here at some point, and put my own sound stuff in there. After driving mine for a bit, I was working on my brothers 97 which is straight piped. I took it for a test drive to make sure everything was good. When I started it up, the engine sounded like it was further away... So it does make a difference on mine. Out of over 1000 pictures of the stupid thing, you'd think I'd have a better one, but here.

The reason for that is the turbo RPM sensor doesn't give out a variable voltage. It is a Variable Reluctance sensor so it puts out a voltage spike for every revolution. So he's likely got a interrupt attached to that pin (which on the uno, you can only attach an interupt to digital pins 2 & 3), and so he counts how many pulses per second and does the math for RPM. Edit, I just checked out the CF thread, he doesn't say how it "wasn't working" but I do see one issue. volatile byte ShaftRevolutions = 0; should be volatile unsigned int ShaftRevolutions = 0; or volatile unsigned long ShaftRevolutions = 0; And then his RPM calculating would be a little more stable if he tried something like RPM = ( 60000 / (CurrentTime / ShaftRevolutions) ); // Convert frequency to RPM, for one interrupt per full revolution If my head is on straight, the math there should be about right. Also, he's trying to Serial.print ShaftRevolutions after setting it to 0.

I went through the code in the first post trying to find any bugs or potential issues. While also trying to streamline it a little bit without making it to hard to understand. To keep from cluttering this thread up, I attached it as a text document. It's just the way I would set it up, don't feel obligated to use anything from it. VGT Code.txt

Val++ is the same as Val += 1 which is the same as Val = Val + 1. Val-- is the same as Val -= 1 which is the same as Val = Val - 1. When programming the arduino, I normally keep this page open lol. http://arduino.cc/en/reference/homePage Also, the lowLimit and highLimit stuff, was for the veins, like if you can only send 0 to 255 through the can buss. then you want to constrain it between those values. As in, you don't want to set desiredVainPosition to -1 or 256.

I like the idea of not slamming the EB on. And then regulating it to not get to much back pressure. Something simple along these line should do it. loop(){ if(EBActive) EBManage(); } void EBManage(){ if (DrivePressure <= 40) desiredVainPosition -= 5; else if (Drivepressure <= 60) desiredVainPosition--; else if (Drivepressure >= 60) desiredVainPosition++; desiredVainPosition = constrain(desiredVainPosition, lowLimit, highLimit); }

If I'm looking at it right, this should give the same output. if ( SwitchPosition == HIGH && EBSwitchPosition == HIGH) DesiredPosition = BoostVeinPosCalc( BoostPressure); //set vein position based on boostmap else if ( ThrottlePosition < 300 && SwitchPosition != HIGH && EBSwitchPosition == HIGH) DesiredPosition = PotentiometerValue; //vein position is pot value else if (EBSwitchPosition != HIGH && ThrottlePosition < 50 ) DesiredPosition = EBpos; //If below %5 then engage Exhaust brake "ebpos = 140" from above else DesiredPosition = BoostVeinPosCalc( BoostPressure); //set vein position based on boostmap // Set the Turbo Position SendTurboPosition( DesiredPosition ); // Delay for Processor delay(2); I'm in the market for a he351ve as well, I'm really cheap though, so you'll probably have yours done before I find one lol. Also, how were you planning on reading the exhaust gas temperature?

I can't say how well it works, as I've never done it any other way. But I use purple power and a pressure washer and that works fine. Never had any issues with the water. Just try to keep the water jet away from seals, sensors, and plugs. One trick I found on really greasy items. Take a whatyamicallit and put it inline with the hose going to the pressure washer. Then fill it will your favorite grease tackling solution and have at it.

Thanks CSM, but your truck is the one that's clean... Dang! Both of yours are great looking trucks for sure! especially after your current ones shoe change. I bet she motors now too! On mine, the engine never moved, neither did the front axle.... Tyler, Do you notice any more noise now that the insolation is gone? Either way, looks super clean now! couple more pics to validate post;

Random... I'm good at random...

Volts is like pressure (psi), Amps is like Current (gpm). When the pressure in the batteries are low, the PCM tells the alt by means of increasing the pressure in the windings (just like water, more pressure = more current). The windings then become stronger magnets, and when they pass the stator, induce a larger voltage. The faster the rotor spins, the larger the voltage that it induces into the stator. Just like any wire, when current passes through the windings, there is a voltage (pressure) drop. That voltage drop is linear to the Current going through the wire/winding. So, the voltage at the battery may be at 14.5 volts, but if there is a lot of current load, you may need 20 volts peak in the alternator to overcome the voltage drop over the windings and wires to, in the end, still be at the batteries 14.5 volts. Where does the voltage go? It gets turned into heat (hence alternators get hot). If you know the amount of current going through the wire, and the voltage drop over the wire, you can calculate it (volts x amps = watts = 3.41 BTU/ hr).

rockauto has a gasket set VICTOR REINZ Part # GS33582 not sure on quality $12.23 also have a rebuild kit ROTOMASTER Part # H1350310N $36.79 I'm curious what makes a turbo rebuild hard? I've never put one together, but I took one apart

That's the best part! All I have left to do is buy the T-shirt.

Yeah, they may only cost $100, and be good for 300k, but they don't flow that great, only able to support 400 hp or so... Until you modify them. hehehe I just rebuilt a 01 power steering pump to throw on my 96 yesterday as well, got plenty of pictures, so hoping to do a write-up too.

Someday. Some joyous day that will be put down in Johnson family history. A day where the tail will be passed on from generation to generation. This wonderful day I speak of will be the one where..... I can unsee what has just been seen, and unlearn what has just been learnt.

Howdy Guys, I'm super sorry I wasn't in the Chat Room last night. Got busy with other things and it totally slipped my mind. Though I hope to see you tonight!

ahhh OK, they must be referring to the 2002 1500's then I guess. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/19-005-03.htm http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/19-007-01.htm

I currently have this same issue, though the top of my fuel module is very... 'Custom' so I doubt it's the same issue. If you've got a buddy, I take two ropes/straps, hook to the passengers side frame, run them under the tank, and then over the drivers side frame. Loosen up the tank hold down straps, and tell the buddy to lower her down. Otherwise I just balance the thing on my knees while laying under it. For finding a leak, you might be able to get away with taking out all the drivers side bed bolts, and loosening all the passengers side bolts about a half dozen turns, unhook the filler neck, and any electrical on that side, then just tilt the bed up till you can see.

Don't mean to get off topic, but Mike, wouldn't your 02 take ATF +4, instead of power steering fluid?

Great video Mike! That's the one I looked at when rebuilding mine. Hardest part was getting the piston back in which wasn't that hard at all. Also, when hooking the brake line back up to the caliper, it IS possible to put the banjo on backwards.... Yeah. Anyhow, I got Dorman Part# DORMAN D352885 and have had no issues with them, around $10 shipped for both front sets.

Haha, That's great! During the summer, the baler broke down on us so I had to fix and swap a different baler pickup on. In doing so I found some lemonade that had been sitting in the back seat of my truck for at least a week... I didn't realize that and took a swig. Dang, that was MY jug of lemonade!!! Till someone took it away until I got done with the baler....

Name: Testing 1, 2, 3 (2005) Date Added: 17 January 2015 - 07:16 PM Owner: Cowboy Short Description: 2005 Ram 3500 Quad Cab, Long Box, SRW, SLT, 4x4 Built 10/04; In Service 11/04 Bought Nov 2007 with 10,307 miles As of 07/02/14 has 100,000 miles and 3004 hours Drivetrain Cummins 600 NV5600 NV271transfer case Engine Mods Built by Big Twin Diesel 12/13 Smarty S06 PoD UDC, tuned by me Garrett Stage 2 GT3782R Balanced Rotating Assembly Hamilton Cam's 178/208/110 Hamilton 103# Valve Springs Hamilton 24V HD Pushrods Cummins 24V 1.3" tappets QSB 480 Pistons BBi Stage 1 MY03 Injectors ATS 2-piece Exhaust Manifold ARP Series 2000 Head Studs Fluidampr Southbend Con-OFE Southbend Hydraulics Jacobs Exhaust Brake Turbo Performance Products Exhaust Manifold/Turbo Blankets Airaid Modular Intake Tube GDP Flo-Pro Intake Horn GDP Air Boss Intake Plenum GDP Grid Heater Delete (MAY-SEP) GDP Big-Line Kit DT Pro Fab Steering Box Brace Kitty MIA Donaldson 40” M085171 MegaCab tailpipe w/ Resonator Home Depot CAI/WAI Gauges ISSPRO EV2's Gauges w/ warning lights -Boost (>38 psi) -EGT (>1250°) -Fuel Pressure (<3 psi) -Exhaust Brake/Drive Pressure (>65 psi) -Oil Pressure (<15 psi) Ultra Gauge EM Standard Page -Load -Rail Pressure -TPS -ECT -IAT (pre-turbo) -IAT (intake manifold) Filters and Fluids Engine -Mopar 4" Pleat OEM Air Filter -Valvoline Premium Blue 15w-40 (for motor break in) -Donaldson ELF7349 Full-Flow -Amsoil EaBP110 Bypass Filter mounted on a BMK-11 Trans -Amsoil MTF 5w-30 Xcase -Amsoil ATF Diffs -Amsoil SVG 75w-90 Power Steering/Brake Hydraulics -Amsoil ATF Coolant -Final Charge Extended Life 50:50 -Donaldson ECF4085 Coolant Filter Fuel Filtration -Baldwin BF1212 -Mopar Severe Duty Filtration Kit, with heater and WIF sensor wiring (not enabled in ECM yet) -Baldwin PF7977 OE Style 5um filter -Donaldson P551313 3um Fuel Filter, Mounted to the GDP Horn Suspension Top Gun Customz 1” Front Level Firestone Ride-Rite Rear Airbags Rear Hellwig Anti-Sway Bar Dynatrac Pro Steer Ball Joints Yukon Spin Free Hubs, with Yukon Lockouts Bilstein 5100's MAXX Links Sway Bar links Wheels/Tires 245/70R19.5 M608z LRG on Black Vision Type 81 Heavy Haulers with Counteract Balance Beads 255/80R17 LRE BFG KM2’s on OEM Forged Alum wheels (hunting tire) Do-Dads SiriusXM OynX Satellite Radio ViAir 450C compressor Cobra 75WX-ST CB Weather Guard Tool box Mopar Running Boards Mopar Vent Visors Fender Flares Garmin Nuvi 1200 Garmin eTrex Vista C Mopar Winter Front Max Brake Hydraulic over Electric Brake Controller Titan Class V Receiver Brite Box with Fog Light Control and Fogzilla Sears Platinum P-2 Batteries Mag Hytec Front/Rear Diff Covers Fast Coolers OEM Clear Cab Lights Duraflaps Geno's Console Cup Holder Current Dyno 415/850 Smarty Jr UDC, PoD99 (8/4/12) Usage Stats 40453.png Best MPG: 21.54 Avg MPH: 33.4 View Vehicle

My FSM says .25* total toe-in. Which for your 285/70/17's that are 32.7" tall. That comes out to .143" Toe-in.