CTcummins24V

For a brand new unit and flash I think it was $1000 even. But, that was after they found a used unit and it didn't work, so they gave me the ABS module at cost. At least a grand, maybe up to $1400.

JC Whitney! Just ordered a super b on sale and then an additional $100 off!

That ain't right. I thought BD was better than that. It's a tough game, buy local and pay an arm and a leg but have great service, or buy online and save money but have hassle and terrible customer service.

I saw on CF where they never tack welded the ring to plate. Always inspect and make sure you have the right part. Good catch.

Check genos garage

Nut welded and painted. 80w 90 Peak LS and friction modifier. Test drive tomorrow.

My concern is structural integrity if I tap the housing. I think I'll just weld a bung on the cover

Ya, but I'm not spending $200 on a cover. I was originally thinking welding a nut at the bottom of the cover, but there a lip at the bottom of the housing that traps a decent amount of fluid.

Anyone ever drill and tap the differential housing for a drain plug? I'm thinking of tapping the bottom to actually drain all the fluid. Disadvantages?

Before my desktop crashed...age of empires ii. Stress relief

No, the new sensors would intermittently cut out too. When hooked up to the expensive snap on tool, the ABS module would cycle. The ABS module was bad.

Honestly, I would just have a tranny shop do it anyways. Drive it till she dies then full rebuild, if it's the original tranny with 208k on the clock

Sorry Mike

One of my cooper at3s had a crack in the sidewall after a year. The tire shop prorated my tires and gave me 2 new ones pretty cheap after the rep looked them over.

Now you'll have to get 200 hp injectors to go along with all that air

lubricants usage. FRONT AXLE ² The lubricant should have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifications. ² Lubricant is SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant. REAR AXLE ² The lubricant should have MIL-L-2105C and API GL 5 quality specifications. ² Lubricant is a thermally stable SAE 80W-90 gear lubricant. ² Lubricant for axles intended for heavy-duty or trailer tow use is SAE 75W-140 SYNTHETIC gear lubricant. NOTE: Trac-lokY and Vari-lokY equipped

Ill report back. Hoping to weld a bung instead of paying $200 for an aftermarket diff cover with a drain plug. I think I put 75w140 because thats what the cummins manual said. Lesson learned. I seem to remember using amsoil 75w90 on my 03' hemi with no issues.

I need to switch my gear oil from 75w-140 to 75w-90 and Peak has some cheap synthetic gear oil. Made in USA, cheaper than Valvoline and Mobile1. The reason for the switch is my rear end chatters on turns when cold and once warmed up, it's just fine. I'm thinking a thinner gear oil could help this situation. Limited slip rear, yes I used Mopar friction modifier.

I just ordered a 180 from nations. Arrives tomorrow, install this weekend. I'll let you all know how it performs.

Yes, I ran my batteries dead the last time I swapped injectors. Do you still have the carter pump for priming? Crack a couple of the injection lines at the head.

wholemopar online could be cheaper

Correct

XDP has 10% off right now!

Awesome! Congratulations! ....real smart Frank- anyone?

If you're running synthetic and aren't leaking oil, no need to change. I'd run amsoil if my all my seals didn't leak so bad. In all honesty, the Cummins will like just about any motor oil, rotella, valvoline, amsoil. I ran rotella t6 for a couple hundred miles and I think it quieted my motor down a smidge, but the oil pan gasket and front crank seal were leaking like a sieve so I switched back to valvoline premium blue. Don't need to overthink it too hard.