Killer223

your getting the two confused. A built valve body with higher line pressure and other updates will most certainly help the trans last longer. Yes it can be done with the trans installed in the truck. i think it's 9 bolts holding the VB in place. then fallow the directions. what the VB does is the timing and speed of the shift. giving the allusion of firm shifts, not a more fluid shift. it shifts faster into gear. where the stock one would be nice and easy. The line pressure is more a clutch holding feature not a shift firmness one. Lower stall converters are tough to deal with on a daily driver. my newly "built" trans has a triple with a stall speed rated at 1800 for my power. the stock was 2100, i got stuck in a driveway the other day. put in reverse and it just sat there. the turbo never lit. so i had to put my programmer on 4 to get truck moving.

drums retract more then disk and create less drag, but heat up faster, and i think don';t get the stopping power of a disk. as for normal use of a truck, i don't think we could see the difference unless towing heavy ALOT!, drums are just fine.

thanks for the info. but i'll only use this like 3-4 times a year towing my 5'er.

interesting, do these turbos have an arm that move externally? one that a cable actuator might be able to manipulate? so no software and i could control it at will? i'm still thinking more simpler. after watching a few videos i really don't think it's what i want. just an old school exhaust brake.

details?

So i'm in the market for an exhaust brake. as i'm a total noob at these, can you explain what the good points and bad points are of the different types. or just recommend a good one that won't fail. maybe some links to some good reading. remember i have an auto, now built with billet parts.

the highest recommended alignment guy here in town said to use Moog and that the dynatracs are not as good as people say. so i know i won't be using him. and the only other option is BigOtires. And why would anyone get an alignment form a shop in the business of selling tires.? can't bring my self to do so. So that said i might tackle this my self.

http://swepcolube.com/products/swepco-711-sae-50wt-synthetic-transmission-fluid worth looking into.

230K and it's time for new ones. i'm looking at dynatrac, are they really worth the coin? or will rebestose be as good.? or factory AAM ones? I don't mind spending the money if they are worth it. Thoughts.

i use a vise, and two sockets, one on each side one big enough to accept the cap and one the same size as the cap. place in vise and squeeze them together. works great. as for greaseable vs non, i have yet to see a difference. I guess if your in water often then the greaseable would be good to push the water out. but it's a debatable moot point.

a good thief will get it., but a dead man switch somewhere that kept the ECM form turning on would be what i would look into.

local spring shop? here in Flagstaff we have a place called American spring. He can and does build a custom leaf pack for any thing really. might look see if you have something similar locally.

here you go Mike. it's an easy transform feature. i'm an old Photoshop user. so now in Gimp just go to Image > Transform > flip Horizontally

yes the ATP's are a discount exclusive tire. and different tread then the AT3's both will be great choices. i like to keep the money in the USA. so that's another reason i went with them. The other ones i really liked were the Goodyear wrangler. https://www.goodyear.com/en-US/tires/wrangler-silentarmor?cta=BBCardTireName Those were great tires for me as well.

That's awesome!!!! Thank you.

I have the at3 on my toyota and the atp's on my cummins. I love my cooper tires. I used to be a BFG fan, but not anymore. you won't be disappointed.

I'm not sure you have researched enough then. I like how they use superfluous words to obfuscate "qualified" not certified. AMSOIL maintains formulation details as proprietary and does not divulge specifics regarding the type of synthetic base stocks used in its synthetic lubricants. AMSOIL developed the world’s first API-qualified synthetic motor oil in 1972 and has remained the leader in the synthetic lubricant industry by continually researching new technologies and demanding only the highest-quality raw materials. As the company moves forward with new technologies it is increasingly more important that this information remains proprietary. AMSOIL views synthetic base oils the same as it views additives, with each having its own set of unique properties. AMSOIL does not insist on a particular type of base stock, but insists on particular performance parameters. AMSOIL chooses whichever synthetic base stock or combination of base stocks delivers the desired result and tailors its lubricants to be application-specific (gasoline, diesel, racing, transmission, gear, extended drain, extreme temperatures, etc.). At the end of the day, the type of base stock used to formulate the oil is inconsequential; the product’s performance is what matters. As I understand it the only one with group IV,V base stock is the signature series. All else are group III. XL and OE I believe are included in this group III. The HDEO is a blend.

Reading and comprehending, There's a difference. Re-read and try again....because I typed it right out there for ya. Sorry you missed it. as for your comment that is not entirely correct either. i didn't say you could get the same base stock and additive as amsoil in a valvoline bottle. you have NO way of knowing weather the valvoline or rotella or supertech use the same base stock as amsoil. as for the blending of the additives. no each company is different. What was stated however was that amsoil buy the base stock from companies such as Ashland. So lets try and practice Reading and comprehending. Yeah high performance. maybe the cummins guys that have upped the HP to over a 1000, but for the average everyday 250-600Hp users, there is NO real benefit, unless as stated before; you are extending drain intervals. i can show you 1000's upon 1000's a semi trucks running dino oil, towing in the mountains and hot desert and even the frigid north of Alaska using dino oil. my statements are not misinformation, To summarize, Yes synthetics will help you if it's well below 0 and you start and drive your truck often at those temps, yes it flows better in cold climates. and it's better if you are going to leave it in for over 15K miles. else its no better or worse then the dino oil in the appropriate weight for the climate you live in.

Let the flaming begin. Scams oil(amsoil) doesn't make anything. (they never have) There is nothing that makes their oil better than the next. Amsoil BUYS there base stock from company's like Ashland. you know, the folks who own/make Valvoline. They have no refining capabilities. They buy base stock and additives from the same place everyone else does, then blend them together and package it up. Price doesn't equate to quality nor does being warped up in the American flag make it better than any other oil. There advertising is a lot of smoke and mirrors. I run dino oil. ps There is no prof your engine will last longer using synthetic over dino oil.

if you do fill it, fill it with the outside holes. never the center one.

i NEVER and i mean NEVER fill a filter in the center hole. heck i don't even pre fill them. as for the Cam2 http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/cam21540.htm https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsResultsDetail?accountId=-1&companyId=10097&resultsUrl=%2FDirectory%2FEolcsResults%3FaccountId%3D-1

i've found sediment in the bottom of just about every oil i've used. you have a filter for a reason. i really wouldn't bother me.

i saw no change in my lab report in winter from 5/40 to the 15/40. so i stuck with the 15/40 dino. Cam2 is a good synthetic 15/40 it's sold here at CalRanch. as for the best 15/40 any that meat the correct spec, CJ-4+ then you'll be fine.

i was and still am to an extent brand loyal, i love Valvoline products. i ran the 5/40 for years every winter and the 15/40 every summer. but after watching my blackstone lab reports tell me nothing really changes between oils i stopped with the synthetics. i think if i was to get over my OCD and let the oil stay in for more then 8K miles then the synthetics would be worth it. else at the 5-8K miles range. dino oil is just fine. I'd say if you plan on extending OCI out to over 10K miles then yes get the synthetic. else there is really no need unless in COLD climate all the time. so i switched to Travellers 15/40, at 39$ a 5 gallon pale when on sale. And i order the dbl7349 filters from amazon. i'll drain at or around 7K miles. my lab results come back as suitable for around 10K miles and "check back" but i just can't force myself to keep the oil in that long. engines like CLEAN oil. soot/carbon is hard like diamond, my brain says change it. it's cheep enough. i couldn't see any benefit in the synthetic to justify the expense. for how often i change the oil. Instead of miles we should all go by hours per oil change. i think the modern oils are rated for like 500 hour intervals. i think the DBL7349 was rated to 15 micron, and was one of a few rated at full flow capable in cold weather. My wife has a 2012 civic, we use walmart super tech 5/20 synthetic for $17 a 5 qt jug. and a bosch filter for 8. with 105K miles no issues what so ever. if you are fallowing the manual and changing around the 8500 mile mark you'll be just fine. food for thought. in really cold climates i'd be buying Mobile one.

i did the hole best filter thing for a while. then i got over myself when i did reg filters with "cheap" oil travellers from tractor supply at 39$ for a 5 gallon pale. The lab results didn't change much at all. clean oil will help the engine last the longest. i drain oil anywhere from 5-8K miles. i used the Lf9028 for a few years, now i use the DBL7349. if i was to get an after market oil filter it'd be centrifuge type. way better then almost any media filter one can get.