Wild and Free

Schells Brewery in New Ulm Minnesota claims to be the oldest brewery in the nation as well. I too debate all the USA brewed micro brews and such being labeled as "Imports".:banghead: EDIT: after looking at both Yuenling and Schell's sites looks like Yuenling is about 31 years older thus claiming the oldest brewery title. I have never heard of Yuenling myself so can not comment on it. My everyday drinking beer is Coors original Banquet beer but my wife and I both like the dark bocks and such but neither of us like the bitterness of pale ales or IPA's.

BD sells a pressure lock which increases line pressure, I had one on my 02 for many years and It held 560 hp 1000 tq on a single disc BD converter rated for 450 hp 750 tq.

The reason for sinking into the sand in the first place is spinning your wheels and without the ladder or traction bars the axles tend to develop wheel hop from sinking just a bit and pushing the sand as the leaf springs wrap or twist they cause the axle to hop when it snaps back thus causing unwanted wheel spin. If you can prevent the leaf springs and axle from wraping up you get 100% of the traction to the ground via wheels turning versus spinning and snapping keeping you on top and not digging through or into the sand. Does this kind of make sense? I can't find any better way of describing it. It has the same results in deep snow as well. I had limited slip as well which can contribute to more wheel hop than an open diff.

Full length, about 3-4 feet long run from frame in front of rear axle to the bottom of the axle to stop axle leaf spring wrap up. Mine were ladder bars, traction bars are a straight rod with heim joints on both ends same concept different design. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3503&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1327271960http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3504&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1327271987

After years playing in the sand along the Missouri river here in ND I found that instead of airing tires down, that traction or ladder bars were the ticket. After being in 4WD all the time in the super soft sand and wheel hopping every where after the ladder bar install on my 02 I was able to drive around on the sand in 2wd where I normally would have been wheel hopping in 4wd. It surprised the heck out of me the difference it made. I rarely had to put it into 4wd afte that on the beach and I never aired the tires down again after that either.It was purely an accident that I found this out, I put the ladder bars on for my racing and pulling but the off roading in sand and plowing through snow and eliminating the wheel hop during these activities was the best gain of all from the bars.

It is just a dust seal or slinger for the crank seal itself, just a little extra protection. it slips onto the crank between the seal and the dampner, it will spin with the crank, the open side or grooved side goes toward the seal.

You will find that chart will change from brand to brand. Not all are created equal. Every manufacturer has a little bit different standard, they may be close though.

On my 2500 rigs I run the fronts at 55 psi all the time no matter what and the rear I run at 55 psi for daily driving and general use but I adjust it up from there depending on the load and trailer I have on back.Never had a problem and have met or beat the mileage rating of the tires I run and that is with a large amount of gravel which the tire manufactures claim 1 mile of gravel is equal to 10 pavement miles.On a dually I would have to experiment with the rears to find the sweet spot though.

I had 17" 2011 rims on my 02 and they worked perfectly.

Nope! They came with the worlds finest genuine Naugahyde leather.

I think it is a Dodge Magnum or Cordoba that the tail lights and rear end are showing from under the tree.

Its not opinion when all of the major tranny shops recomend and sell the lines to monitor the temp at the converter outlet point. The reason for the aftermarket product companies telling you to put it in the pan or the servo port is because the typical everyday Joe can figure it out and can manage this simple task and they sell more parts because people think its simple enough. If most find out that it would require a line swap it would deter a lot of people wanting to add a gauge so just tell half truths and the people will buy buy buy!!!! 240* in the pan consistantly is a death wish for your tranny. I ran 2 tranny gauges at one time experimenting and I had one in the pan and servo port at the same time and they were always the same temp. I then put one in the pan and one in the converter outlet line and it was consistantly 30-40* hotter at the converter outlet port than in the pan. And as for the chart gasser posted just to add to it one has to remember that once it gets to the 300 and over range things like seals fail fast and then there is the safety issue of the oils flash point at which it becomes very flamable and when it is hot and a seal fails and sprays on a hot exhaust ect it is a real quick flame job.

Was it straight down or was there any wind with it?Our hail storms pretty much destroy everything in their path as it comes along with high winds.Imagine that hail coming at you sideways at 50 mph.

As far as I know the 3rd gens never came with a factory sway bar on the rear.I have read and adjusted and looked everything over as per the install instructions and all is well with it. It was only on my friends rig for less than a year as he pulls a huge travel trailer as well and he didn't get any gain from it which is why he took it off and sold it to me, like I said I figured it would work better on a short bed versus his long bed. Mine is probably 4-5 years old.I will check and see which one he went with that he said was much better at controlling things.

I've had the standard Hellwig on my 05 for several years and I have to say I noticed minimal gain with no load and almost no noticable difference with a trailer on back over stock on mine. I bought it used from a friend of mine who bought it brand new for his 03 and he took it off for a different brand as he too didn't get any noticable gain from it. I thought that it would have worked better on my short box than his long box but I was wrong but out only 100 bucks for it.We both have that tail wagging the dog feeling from the rear end all the time and I still have it with the Hellwig.I can't remember which brand he went to but he says it is much better than this one. I have been looking at ditching mine for air bags instead.

Genos garage has them. http://www.genosgarage.com/Brite-Box/products/9/

Its an automatic. No matter what gear you put it in the flexplate and converter still spins freely with the engine, its a fluid coupler drive system. Its not like a manual tranny which is mechanically coupled to the engine.

Either take the inspection cover off for the flex plate or take the barring tool plug out the front passenger side of the bell housing and stick a bar in the ring gear teeth to hold it. Would be easier to have an extra person to hold the flywheel to crack the bolts loose.

I am about 70 miles east of Dickinson and get there a few times a year. They are busy but nothing like up north in minot and Williston, but that is changing fast especially with the oil development heading south of Dickinson and east now. I have had no reason to get to Williston but have been in Minot a few times and that place is an Ant hill and last summers massive flood up there helped nothing.OH yeah congrats on the new rig! Hope it works out for you.:thumb1:Where do you call home?

Doesn't sound like the oil activity will ever end anytime soon here this time.Glad I live just on the edge of oil country but its coming my way. We are seeing the effects of it in the Bismarck Mandan and surrounding areas too as all the housing is gone here too from oil industry workers buying it all up.

If I had fog lamps it would have been better but I never did add any other lights to my 02. It was a slow ride home on country dirt roads for 20 miles at night. I am not saying it will happen on yours but I tried a couple of different sets of brighter bulbs and they all burned out or actually exploded inside the head light housing. None lasted more than a couple of weeks. But the original bulbs held up.

I did an experiment on my 02 and found that the temp in the servo port was the same as in the pan. I would consider you get the cooler line with the sensor port in it and monitor it there for better accuracy. With your description you are getting it fairly hotter than 200*. I would run with the OD turned off with what you describe and see what that does until you move the sensor. The slow going with large loads and stop and go is what heats them up fast as it is in converter drive most of the time and that generates a lot of heat. Are you running synthetic oil in the tranny. Here is a link to the line with a port in it and a link to a threqad describing it. http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/prt,42,624352 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1135-Installing-Tranny-temp-gauge?highlight=sensor

When I went with brighter dual filament bulbs on my 02 running a bright box it melted the bulbs within a few weeks and I wound up going back to a stock bulb as the heat generated by having both filaments lit in hotter bulbs was a bigger safety hazard than dim bulbs. I had to drive home in the dark one night due to this, burned out both headlights on the same day last fall.

We need more details. Where is the temp sensor mounted? Is this temp seen going down the open road and if so what speed and what kind of terain or is it putting around town stop light to stop light what are the ambient temps, gear ratio / tire size I see in your signature ect?

Just go with an SO pump, There are no "Beefed" up parts in a hot rod pump. The SO delivers more fuel than an HO pump the HO pump had different timing and less fuel delivery at a higher pressure.The HR pumps just have a combination of genuine Bosch SO and HO parts in the same pump, The gain you will get from an HR pump is minimal compared to other mods that can be made plus you will get a lope or erratic idle most times with an HR pump depending on what other mods you have.The SO is the best bang for the buck and will work on original HO rigs as well.