Wild and Free

What size tires and rims are you running? Bigger than stock rims and tires will add to the demise of any ball joints.Road salts in your area, lack of grease, That is uncommonly low miles for failure on a 2nd gen? I had a ranch hand on my 02 and stiffer coils and drove 50% washboard country roads daily and still had the original bj's in it when I sold it at 145K.

That would be because they are OEM. Spicer is a division of Dana corp. Spicer is good. Your front axle is a Dana 60.

I see they have 24 inch on center cross members which from my experience is too far apart. Try and stick with a trailer with 16-18 inch on center or less crossmembers otherwise you will develop holes in the decking if you haul heavy stuff. 24 inches allows too much flex in the wood planks. The suspension is another big issue also torsion is best.

Here in North Dakota we had the same issue last year. record amounts of moisture and several water related derailments as well as many flooded towns.

You should be able to splice it If it is working just pull the sensor out of the hub bearing and slip a bit of heat shrink on it and seal it up, the sensor is just held on with a single allen head bolt.

To do a good flush you would want to remove the rear "return" line then you would get all the oil out of the cooler circuit flushed out too.

Same here I only use the CC to build up flyer miles for vacation travel, never carry a balance.I have never taken a single loan out to term either.I paid my 30 year house loan off in 9 years, I worked a ton of OT for about 5 years and put it all into paying it off.That was the best feeling ever.But now I am on a fixed income "Salary" since I decided to get into management, no more hourly OT for this guy whenever I wanted to work it.

After you get the fuel pumped out and wipe all the residue and scum out I would just wipe it down with hot water with bleach to kill any other critters in the tank and then put clean fuel in with anti microbal of your finding. I would just blow the fuel lines out with air if you have some if not that isn't enough to cause much more than one more filter change after running a full tank of anti algae solution through it and you should be fine. The old fuel could just be taken to any used oil drop off do not remix it as you will just reintroduce the critters back into the system again. Or you could use it to start your bon fire. I would start checking the last few places you filled fuel and tell them about your problem and that one of them most likely is causing a lot of other people the same issue as you are having. They all have the means to pull fuel samples and have it tested for microbes.

And then there is something even better that I absolutely love.When you start putting that same amount you were paying for several years into savings " You are living without it already so you won't miss it" and then go in and pay cash for the next vehicle! Nothing like seeing the looks on faces when they hear you have cash to pay outright for a vehicle or any other capital purchase.:thumb1:I guess it is unheard of anymore.My grandpa built up a 7k acre farm on one single principle.If you can't afford it you don't need it, and I am finding more truth in that the older I get.This is why the country and world is in the trouble it is in now, people do not know the difference between needs and wants.

You can change the filter 12 times or you can drop the tank and clean it out. I myself would clean the tank. The constant worrying about when the filter plugs and where you will be left sitting isn't worth the hassle in my book.

Thanks for adding some facts to the discussion bh. ISX the microbs or algae scrape off and feels like oily slime and plugs the filters up fast. as the info db posted above. It takes time to get it worked out of a system. The blackness you describe in you filter is totally normal as the fuel has additives and dirt and other things in it that will turn a filter dark over time. but the barnicles are thick slime and like to congregate.

Algae usually originates in bulk tanks that have moisture in them from condensation not necessarily from your own tank. It looks like oil because its waste is essentially a black slime imagine it as a type of slimey mold or pond algae it is microscopic but it just coats the filter like what you see in the pictures.You could run the tank empty and then fill up at a known good station and add an anti algae formula of some sort there are many brands get what you can get locally, most truck shops or truck stops should carry it.Any type of diesel is prone to algae but it is becoming more prevelant with the new Bio diesel blends.Us long term diesel techs like to refer to this as diesel Barnacles :lmao:You can do a search on diesel fuel algae and find tons of info on it.

I need to jump in here, I just looked at this thread for the first time. You need to get that fuel out of the tank and clean everything out good.The black stuff in the fuel filter and screen is Fuel Algae which you should have caught on to in one picture you actually posted.You got a bad load of fuel somewhere and or got a load of water with some fuel which promotes the algae growth.You need to run a couple bottles of bio kleen or similar product through it to kill it.You will just keep the process going unless you get the system cleaned out. There is one other thing that can cause that black residue in the filter but that is found on HEUI "Hydraulic electronic unit injector" engines where the fuel is under extreme pressure and heat and returns to the tank for cooling I can't remember the term for this right now but it is a break down in the fuel from heat similar to having soot in your oil.

My 05 does about 16 overall daily driving but 2 years ago my wife and I took a vacation and went to phoenix and over to the colorado river up to the north rim of the grand canyon and over to lake powell and through the rockies up through denver and back to ND for about 4500 miles in 10 days and the 05 did an overall trip average of 19.8 mpg driving the speed limits everywhere and running Schaeffers soy shield plus in the fuel. Had the smarty JR on level 2 the whole trip, I think we could have broke 20 overall had the JR been on level 3 as it seems to do better mileage on 3.

I have never had any faith on the overhead reading on any of my 2nd or my 05 and especially the diesels. They have never been anything but a range reading and not necessarily a close range from my experience of the last 3 2nd gens and my 3rd gen.But on another note the one in my 2010 Hemi is almost dead on as It has been within a few tenths most times I fill but it actually reads less than actual by a few tenths most times but overall really accurate.

Are they both liquid cooled? If not that would be a good indicator if the goldwing is water cooled as I think it is and the rancher is air cooled the air cooled engines tend to get hotter and break down the oils faster.

If you wouldn't be able to see it from the doors back I would swear the front half looks like a an old chevy celebrity.

Pretty common and nothing to worry about, a bit of fine steel wool or emery cloth will clean things up good enough.

The only ones that will hold up over time and especially with large tires on 3rd gens are Carli suspension ball joints but they will leave nothing but lint balls in your pocket. I went with carlis after having changed about 10 sets of other aftermarket and factory joints on mine as well as friends rigs once off warranty some only made it 10k miles both OEM and MOOGs after replacement. I think they were $700+ for all 4 joints but well worth not having to do them every year.

Isn't that how the Duke boys would do it if Cooter wasn't there to help out?

1st- Dave Goerend transmission 2nd-SunCoast are my 2 picks.

I waste my money and watch it go down the oil drain every 10K along with a fuel filter every 10k. I run Amsoil and a bypass. I had previously run up to 30 k on my 02 without a single oil drain and sampled every 5k and did a full flow filter change every 5k and both full flow and bypass every 10 k and the oil samples looked perfect at 30k but I decided to change it anyhow. But at that point the engine oil had all been changed a couple times already taking into account the oil you loose and replenish at the filter changes.But the 05 I just do 10k intervals on all "Because I have that kind of cash to waste".:whistle:I am going to do 10K intervals on my 2010 Hemi as well with the amsoil.My wifes VW jetta I do the recommended 5K with amsoil only because it has the egr system and the oil gets extremely sooty.

I have a hoist so I have it a bit easier but I just got it off the ground so the axle droops and as stated above the upper tower bolts are easy to get at from under the hood no need to remove any fenders ect just need to remove the shocks. I just used a coil spring compressor and did not unhook a single thing. Worked like a charm.

I had found on all 3 of my second gens that the lower shock mount bolts would come loose on occasion and cause this. If it was an auto tranny this was really common on all 3 also was the tranny shift linkage arm would get dry and cause this very thing but a little lube in the sockets would cure it. Other than the above statements did you check the front axle stabilizer end links ? --- Update to the previous post... Yep, Bushings are replaceable on most all things thanks to the aftermarket parts world.

75w90 will be just fine unless you are pulling heavy in hot ambient temps a lot.