Wild and Free

A simple way to blead most jacks is to leave it in the lower or released position with the valve open and then pump it for a while. This will usually cycle the air out of the valve. Works on a lot of jacks and pumps but not gauranteeing it would work on all.

Take the one out of the new line. It is just a hard rubber ball and will pop out if you get behind it with a small screw driver or o-ring pick.

Either that or the wiring going to it on the bottom side of the column. Next time it does it take the wheel and tilt it all the way up and down a few times to see if that does anything. Mine did the opposite it just quit and went dead in a parking lot and it didn't take me long to figure out what happened after tilting the wheel and everything came back to life.

The studs on my kool vues from AM had plenty long studs, there was about 1/2" of stud past the nuts after installed.

I thought the Powerstroke was a thing of the past in Fords since they split with navistar and started building their own diesel called the Lightning IIRC.:think:Or is this going to be one of those deals where everyone is going to keep calling it a powerstroke just like all skid steer loaders are called Bobcats even though it is a single brand name like ford or dodge.

I wish folks would research things before doing things. This thread will explain. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1135-Installing-Tranny-temp-gauge?highlight=sensor The oil in the pan is the coldest oil in the system as it has just returned from the cooler circuit. If you are seeing 200+* in the pan you are close to having a deep fried tranny. I found the pan temps to be 50-70* cooler than the converter outlet port on average when I had a gauge in both spots at once while testing.

lol.............I just realized this is in the 2nd gen forum.:doh:sorry for the hijack.

Yeah I don't live in town and it shows. I drive 30 miles of gravel roads a day to and from work which doesn't help. The lift was about the best 1900 bucks I have ever spent. Its a real back saver for me as I have back issues and working off a creeper kills my low back within minutes.

Here are a few, Not the greatest as this is our old camera.

Got the new mirrors installed and the fit and finish are great just like OEM. Install took about a half an hour. The only thing I see that could be better is there is a bit of play in the breakaway detent of the mirrors. They have about an 1/8 inch of forward and back play in the detent socket which may cause some vibration issues but I will drive it to work today and see how they actually are on my 20 mile washboarded gravel road to work.If Anyone needs/wants a set of OEM sport power heated mirrors from my 05 shoot me a pm.Bill

What are you going to use it for? There are other brands of locking compounds but loctite brand is the best quality. The biggest mistake folks make is they think if a little is good a lot is better which is what causes most issues. Another trick to loosen up a fastener that will not budge due to excessive retaining compound it to give it a few hard sharp wraps with a hammer which will crack the compound and or heat the faster and area with a torch or micro torch as this will reliquify it and make it easier to loosen.

I had a 95 1500 4x4 reg cab I ordered and bought new and had for 110k miles. It had a 360, auto with 3.92 gear ratio and it did 16-17 on the road and around 14 in town its whole life. I ran it hard too. I always get the best mileage with all my rigs in the mountains versus the rolling hills of the northern plains just for reference. I can always average 2+ mpg better on mountain roads gas or diesel. I find all the downhill coasting far overrides the little extra it takes to pull the grades.I think that gear ratios have a lot more to do with mileage than most think and it is not always how one would think.I know with GM pickups with the 6 liters will always do a lot better mileage with 4.10 gears than the rigs with the 3.73 gears. There is always a sweet spot for all engines and those happen to like the higher rpms for the better mileage.

3 things will cause high pressures like that, either a plugged front end like I described or a partially plugged orifice tube or receiver drier. How did the compressor fail? If anything went through the system from a failed compressor it will end up at the orifice tubeand drier and cause high pressures as well. What were the low side pressures and what were the duct temps?Did you pull the system into a vacuum before charging the system after the compressor swap?

What are the actual pressures? How will it help the passenger side?The fan is still working just not at full capacity until it is needed, so back to my original question is the AC working fine or not? And do you just sit and idle a lot? Any speed over 25 mph and the fan isn't doing much anymore all your airflow at that point it being pushed through and not pulled by the fan. I know tons of guys who run absolutely no fan at all and do not see AC issues until stop light to stop light on hot day in town.

I just read through this thread and am confused as to how you use your rig. The only gain you will get with the electric fan is while sitting stopped in 100+ degree heat. My 05 also has the best ac I have ever had in a vehicle even in 90+ high humidity heat sitting at idle it will freeze me out and I am a heat hater and I have to turn it way down.Did you put the electric fan on just because the mechanic said the pressures were high or is the ac performance low?Has the condensor radiator and aftercooler been cleaned out lately? if they are dirty lt will not get enough airflow across the fins to cool it down regaurdless of fan power pushing or pulling and lack of airflow through the condensor causes high pressure. But without knowing what the pressures actually were ambient temps and duct temps were or are It is hard to help much.This thread started talking about an AC Compressor swap and then jumps directly to fan discussion with no other reference to AC performance.

Thanks for the link Tom. I had been looking for a set of power heated tow mirrors for the 05 but gave up the look a while back as 300-400 was out of my price range but since the 05 isn't new anymore your link has Kool Vue power heated tow mirrors for 210 shipped for the pair. Got a set on order.Funny how the price is set up for the newer 4th gen rigs, they are almost double the price as was the case a few years ago for the 3rd gens versus 2nd gens.:ahhh:Does anyone know if the 3rd gens need the reinforcement brace inside the door for the tow mirrors like the 2nd gens do?

It could be but its hard to sse by the pic. Just drain the coolant screw it out and put some new thread sealer on it and put it back on.

Could just cut an inch off the end and reinstall it. The area where the clamp is is already fully compressed and deteriorated and by cutting an inch off gets you to fresh hose and will get the leak to stop. Other than that you just need to replace the hose and or go to a regular worm gear hose clamp.

Is there a time and date set on the Maury show to find out who the father is?

Grew up farming and ranching for the first 21 years, went to school for agribusiness and farm and ranch management and then on to diesel tech school and never returned to farming. Pulled wrenches as a diesel tech for the next 18 years years at a Case IH Ag dealership, and then on to a Construction equipment dealership that was primarily a Komatsu dealer but was also Terex, JCB, Cedar Rapids agregate equipment Gehl and several other brands., Then on to a Truck shop which specialized in complete driveline work and complete full service work on anything on wheels that would fit through the doors. Then On to 2 different coal mines as a diesel tech where I recently last year moved into management as a shop foreman.But like Mike I have worn many other hats as well. Was Firefighter I trained and was also first resonder trained but have since let both lapse. I too cut lots of firewood every year, Approximately 6-8 cords a season.I am an Amsoil dealer but have not pushed it too much just casual sales.I still dabble in cattle at my mother inlaws farm.Have been dabbling in politics more in recent years and am wanting to try and run for a state position.

You already have the ability to turn off OD so it doesn't pertain to your 2006. This thread only pertains to the 2005 year. The software doesn't allow for reprogramming to be able to turn OD off like your 2006 and newer ones do from factory. The 2003-2004 could be programmed to do it but the 05 was a different animal and couldn't be programmed to lockout OD. This thread also got off topic as they were talking about installing a torque converter lockup switch as well as the OD lockout switch.

In true ATS fashion 150 bucks for 5 bucks worth of wires and a switch.BD has the unit I was thinking of which ties into the system so as to be able to control it with the factory tow haul switch like the 06 and newer do. Push button once for tow haul and 2 more times to cancel OD.

I always thought there was a company that made a controller to be able to turn the over drive function off on 2005 models?I found DTT makes a shift enhancer for shift quality issues and sun coast makes a lock up clutch controller but can not find any O/D off controllers.I want the ability to turn over drive off myself but do not want to go the hack and splice method. I could have sworn I read of a way a few years ago.

If you want a resonator to quiet down the exhaust go with the longest one. I had the The short one and it will quiet down the in cab drone but not affect the exhaust sound but I have heard the long resonators from FTE will quiet things down a little bit and still eliminate drone. Mount the resonator as far forward as possible best results are right to the down pipe for drone elimination.I think a muffler would be best for your situation though.

Is it a slide in camper? If so that could do it. I would have to question some of the "Reliability" items you have listed.