Wild and Free

Did you pull the trigger on this one Hez? Down sizing at its best........... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Custom-Dually-5th-Wheel-/222074634482 http://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/enthusiasts/find-of-the-week-1981-toyota-dualie-pickup-with-matching-fifth-wheel-camper/ar-BBrAig5?li=BBnb4R5&ocid=edgsp

This one hits home with me as my wife and I have talked about this very subject and song story line many times over recent years. One of the biggest reasons for liking the get away capacity of owning a boat an being on the water like we do so often, nothing so peaceful as that for getting away from the "Noise". Not a "Great song" per say..............yet as it was just released last week but I like it just the same. This is also a song I love. Fits the story line for me.

Too manly? NEVER ha ha. This is about the most common size dump trailer around, only difference is mine happens to be a gooseneck which actually pulls a ton easier and better than all the bumper pulls behind all the 1/2 tons out there in my area, nice thing is the load is pretty much centered over the trailer axles rather than having a lot of tongue weight like some trailers. Every thing I own has to earn its keep, have always been that way. This load actually pulled a lot easier than towing my pontoon behind it which it sees almost every week during the summer time hopefully coming soon, talking 80's next weekend.

Tried to add this to my original thread but is locked as an archive now so on to part 2 as the title says lol. Last weekend got the first gooseneck load behind the 2010 Hemi, had my B2150 Kubota tractor and box scraper loaded up inside the new to me 14' PJ dump trailer. Just for reference I have air bags and a B&W turn over gooseneck hitch in the 2010 1500 Hemi. Hemi handled the load better than I thought it would considering I bucked 30+- mph winds during the trip both ways.

You will be fine the Loctite is about the best product and the stuff is cured I assure you.

Just another thing to throw out there on relays. I say this because I chased similar issues on a couple different rigs over the years where someone wired in accessories like Mike shows in his diagrams. all was ok but circuits would lose power intermittently and then come back on. Chased everything down several times but it was so intermittent was hard to find until I looked at the relay itself and found out it was a momentary relay and not a latching relay. MAKE SURE YOU GET LATCHING RELAYS!

Haggar hit it on the head with the Loctite as I was trying to. I did not say Loctite primer was necessary I was just merely explaining why the excess product would never ever set up, primer can be used as a cleaner yes but the 24 hour cure time is for the product in the area void of air between the crank and sleeve alone with no primer use, with primer it is a few seconds to just a few minutes depending on product for cure time is how it works. Sorry had to go back through and reread the thread , missed the post about getting and using the matched kit. For the speedy sleeve in the pic above the installation ring "The lip portion to the inside" which is what the install tool cup is for and pushes against is to be torn off the actual sleeve after install, There is a perforated area that it will separate at.

I hear ya loud and clear on that point. Very extremely rare I have someone do work on my own rigs either but sometimes timing is just not there and I need it done no matter what. lucky it has only happened a few times in about 20 years. It does work out nice having 3 regular drivers 2 being pickups and then in the summer my convertible Murano too so that takes some of the sting out of it.

Price is not out of line considering what shop labor rates are anymore and they probably had an alignment on the estimate as well. Just talked to the guy who bought my trailer and he said he was quoted over 1K to do ball joints on his old square body style7.3 PS ford.

That's because most Loctite products are "Anaerobic" which means they will only cure in the absence of air, which is why the exposed product will never harden. One needs to use Loctite primer for an almost instant cure of most of their anaerobic products. The bottles are actually designed to allow air to flow through them, if not it would be solid in the bottle much like the product usually is under the cap. One needs to research the products and how to properly use them before just assuming how they are to work. You did however choose the retaining compound with the largest "Gap fill" spec of .015". to help with the nicks and gouges on the crank. Not to be a buzz kill and hopefully as many issues as you had that the seal lasts for a while but from my experience if the seal is not straight and plus the fact you installed a seal that is made to spec for the crank dimension alone and not with a sleeve under it rather than a matched seal sleeve kit it will not last as long and will wear into the sleeve fairly fast and start to leak.

Don't forget to get new u-bolts for the 80, they are a bit wider due to the bigger diameter of the axle tubes which is why you need the upper plate that sits on top of the spring pack and lower saddle that goes under the axle tube. Also don't forget the drive shaft needs to be shortened an inch or get the shaft from the d80 rig as well. Other than that the brake lines and e-brake hooks up the exact same.

That's because the Dana 80 single rear wheel with disc brakes are about as common as the 98 quad cab 12 valve, had a short run. I paid 1100 for mine about 10 years ago that came out of a totaled pickup.

I was just referencing CSM's post about buying a newer pickup lol.

Looks like an antique car show in the making............................

IIRC the 2nd gens ran a 70U with 32 spline axle shafts.

The 11.5" AAM is just flat out better and beefier than the D80 overall and much easier to work on and repair hands down.

Yes sir. Just make sure it is a 2500 D80 and not a 3500 dually D80, bit different width of axle tubes.

Need to shorten the driveshaft 1 inch or buy one for a Dana 80 rig and the u-bolts need to be changed as the axle tube diameter is bigger on the D80 and along with that comes with the matching u-bolt saddle & plates upper and lower to match the bigger diameter of the tubes. Not bad at all, I did the swap on my 02.

Weight limits on jo blow vehicles? Here in the upper plains if one can get the load rolling its legal lol...............as some of my towing pics showed I have towed the mark @ around 35Klbs a few times with the ol 05. Sold the gooseneckflatbed a couple weeks ago so the heavy load days are behind me now. I did load up the Hemi ths weekend with my Kubota tractor in the new to me dump trailer for a weekend of barn and corral cleaning at the in-laws farm, the hemi handled it well considering the 40mph winds all weekend.

Now is the time of the year to put it up for sale. Maybe check with some dealers and / or your own bank for value and possible consignment.

At least it happened where and how it did, was most likely already broke and this was the icing, could have snapped with a loaded trailer going down the open road then you would have had a lot worse time of it.

Are you upside down on the loan? If not just sell it outright and be done with it and put the payment money into the house and property..............................................and most importantly some sort of savings.

I always install from front, never seen a seal install tool like that, never used anything but a small hammer to finesse it in flush with the front of the housing.

Just sell it period and stick what you can into equity of the new house and then when "Someday" comes you can then look into options if one can afford it., priorities do change as life goes on.