Wild and Free

The shims for the carrier are in between the bearing and the case of the carrier so if you were expecting to see them fall out with the carrier you will not, requires the carrier side bearings to be pulled to get to the shims, to shim a carrier one need dummy bearings which are oversized on the inside race to slip on the carrier housing by hand not requiring them to be pressed on and pulled each time to install and remove about a dozen times to get the correct shim thickness setup. That is a huge advantage of the AAM versus a Dana axle, shimming danas can be a royal pain to set up versus the simple threaded adjuster ring on the AAM setup.

Wow they basically work for free @ $70/hour shop labor rates. Have not seen rates that low unless its at small mom and pops small town shops around here for quite a few years. Unless its an owner operator only with no employees. If they do have employees they are eating beans and weenies @ that rate. http://www.lazarsmith.com/services.html

Either no trailer brakes or not knowing how to reach down and hit the manual operation button the pull her straight again.

The new nanofibre and synthetic fibre filters have changed that train of thought big time the last few years. Just like oil itself too much old school train of thought without the knowledge of what has evolved.

Shouldn't be too hard to replace a seal if the bearings and gear set are ok. Need to replace the water pump while it is apart as well. I have never gone into a lower unit but have dropped several off to replace water pumps mine included.

Had several of those happen here in the state with 60+ MPH winds all day long and 40+ sustained wind speeds for up to 15 minutes several times according to the weather stations at work. We have on spot about 30 miles north of Bismarck that is known for crosswinds through an S curce through a large coulee on US hiway 83 4 laner that claim numerous trailers / campers ect every year.

My wife and I boon dock off the pontoon a lot, throw our supplies on and head for the less traveled areas of our water world to do one thing..........get away from people.

I know, I was just pickin as I like to do.

It's not a CR all the vp44 and 12v need is a spaghetti strainer and cheese cloth to filter the fuel on them from what I hear, they don't have injector issues.................................................

My bill should show up any day now, am expecting it to be under a buck a gallon this year for the first time in a decade from what I have heard of late. I do a deferred billing summer fill program through a local CO-OP, They fill in late spring early summer and don't bill until late July early August and lock in the lowest price they buy at bulk for the season and then if you pay the bill within a week or receipt they give another 5% discount.

Drive pressure is the air pressure in the exhaust manifold pre turbo which is basically letting you know how much of a restriction the turbo has versus boost pressure which is post turbo on intake side. Ideally it would be 1 :1 ratio or a bit less drive pressure than boost, but once fuel and other mods are added which push turbos harder than normal drive pressure becomes higher and this in return causes higher egts due to restrictions in turbo exhaust housing designs.

Organic farmer, dafaq...................................................You trying to distill fine spirits or just cool a little hot air? Could of just ran the copper all the way into the cab the way it looks.

Mike you would need a longer thermo couple probe than the normal short ones supplied with the gauges to run that system, just an observation. There are several different lenth probes made but the trick is to find one that works with the gauge installed to make sure they are compatible.

I wouldn't know, I never picked up the tobacco habit chew or smoke, but I do enjoy my liquid libations.

Believe me its not just you, I chew my wife out all the time for running everything down to the peg. Don't know how but she has never ran out of fuel ............................YET, that I know of.

I think ND and federal taxes together are around 42-43 cents a gallon IIRC without looking it up.

I rarely pay attention anymore, just pump and pay. but did take a gander today, diesel 2.69 / 87 unleaded 2.79 / 91 premium 3.29 Enjoy it while you can, once winter heating oil demand jumps as well as harvest time prices will jump back up real quick again.

Yep only mine is about 3 times bigger to handle "Real" filters, not just those baby ones lol. Kinda like a glorified pipe cutter.

I never went on a diet, I think along the lines of dieting being a temporary thing, once one loses weight through a diet and then puts the weight back on it is a different form of fat and harder to lose again. I just changed my life style and just flat cut out certain foods all together "Grains and milk ". I do not count calories I eat what I want when I want but since I have my body going down the road nature intended now that is how we are supposed to eat just graze all day, the 3 squares a day is why we are a nation of obese people, not how nature intended for us to eat and live. My wife and I know several folks whom dr's were going to do joint replacements but after going through lifestyle changes like us they were totally healed and no longer needed any joint work.

If one were to send in that used oil for a sample it would be spiked through the roof with silica dirt and super high in wear metals and other things. Some ones garage heater or the next hot batch pavement plant for that is the best. To properly check an oil filter for contamination one needs to cut out a section of pleats usually about 6-8 pleats wide and about 3-4 inches tall and place it in a rag and then put it in a vice and squeeze the oil out into a clean rag and then look at the rag and then open up the pleats and see what is left, it would surprise you at what appears that you can not see when it has not been rung out yet so to speak. I will do a write up on this next time I do an oil change, I have an oil filter cutter tool as well.

You don't I was just throwing out other items like the fuse taps that some may not be aware of for tapping into power supplies. The cat part # I posted is like a butt splice tee, premade with the pins and sockets on the ends already to plug into the DT connectors..

Here at work we have lots of pre made Deutsch connectors and tee wires made for Cat. Best ones are the DT series connectors and the Cat part # for a pre-made tee splice is 2073814 to be used with the DT series Deutsch connectors. I use these on my own personal equipment as well when I need to splice into a circuit or even tie two circuits together ect..http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_connectors/deutsch_dt_series_connectors/ If one decides to use deutsch connectors make sure and buy the gold plated pins and sockets, they last longer and have less arcing issues than the nickel pins and sockets if it is used on a heavily used switched circuit otherwise if constant power or sensors or any other application nickel works well enough. I also use lots of heat shrink and if using butt connectors only buy the heat shrink type as well. There is a super method of splicing wires too but it takes a bit of skill and patience and one needs to be fair at soldering, this overall is the best of the best method of splicing wires. It requires carefully peeling off about an inch of wire insulation and then parting the wire in half with an opening and then insert the wire to be spliced in also splitting it into 2 halves and braiding it half way each direction and then solder it and then heat shrink it. Bussman has real slick fuse taps we use tons of also. They come in several sizes and styles for different types of automotive fuses.

Like I said there are dozens of products made to TEE into harness wires that are water tight and just like factory connectors. I was simply pointing out that the el-cheapo scotch locks they send with should never be used and the companies supplying them with the performance modules ect should know better but they are easy to use and they think most couldn't use an actual product or have the know how or they themselves don't have the ability to do things the proper way with an actual professional finish.

Pierce, stab, hack, splice half dozen of one 6 of the other scenario here. The stealth cover is the same principal only you stabbed directly into the brain instead of the nerve lol. There are many safe ways to splice a wire and no scotch locks are not one of them folks, they should be outlawed period, but from a mechanics stand point troubleshooting and repairing issues they have created over the years has paid many bills and earned us a lot of paychecks for us mechanics over the years lol.

So you are running your Edge attitude as a timing only box and the VP44 is untapped then I assume since you don't want to tap OEM wires????????