Wild and Free

Bruce Jenner? This day and age..............................

It does hook up to the OBD2 port and According to the chart of PID's from their site the 04.5 - 05.5 do not offer that PID, jump to 06 and you have access to almost everything under the sun. I will wait on the physical gauges until I see for sure that it does or doesn't display. http://www.madselectronics.com/pids2005.html Here is a year to year list of what each model years PID is supported. http://www.madselectronics.com/SmartyTouchPIDS.html

Knowing the 48re was way better and stronger than the 47re I decided to let her buck until it started to show some kind of sign of weakness but so far so good and it has been worked hard to say the least.

My 02 TC would slip and chatter during a hard accel when it was stock @ about 20K miles on it just trying to merge into traffic, once I added nothing but an Edge EZ it was really bad and that was running empty so I knew it would not last and was why I did a BD converter and VB before it failed and took out the rest.

That is a very dangerous statement and is totally dependant on the filter media and style and type of filter...................WAAAAAY too many variables there to make a blanket statement like that, this is where people get into trouble.

Key word is "Did" until the current 5.7 Hemi in my 2010 1500, burned up the 4th / od clutch pack which is pretty common according to the tranny shop for those of us who actually use our rigs and work them and tow with them. First auto I have had to rebuild since owning mid 80's GM rigs with 700R4 trannies which were junk in the stock form back then, wiped out many of them and replaced every one with a TH400, I have not failed an auto tranny in 20+ years.

My 05 has 118K and has been run with a smarty JR on the 100hp setting for years pulling many over the top loads as can be seen here, a few loads close to the 40K overall rolling point. My 02 went 150+K with 560 hp and 980 tq for many years of power pulling and a few races nothing but a replacement TC and VB and I did snap an output shaft but that is an in vehicle repair that doesn't require tranny removal so I don't consider that major.

Mike think of it this way, the big particle will embed in the bearing and or get caught in the filter the finer the particles like soot have the most and fastest wear properties, imagine 800 grit sand paper working over your bearings all day versus a single large particle. We see cam failures in brand new Cat engines on a regular basis from high soot levels which is what very good bypass filters will help out with, even better than bypass filters are spinner centrifuges.

Not an amsoil thing at all, its a way of thinking thing, old school way of wasting money or modern way of conserving. You preach conservation and wanting to save money every place but then turn a blind eye here. I really don't give a crap what one uses they just offer high quality stuff in a kit at one place is the only reason I posted that. People are and will always be stuck on the old wasteful ways of thinking period. They think because the price of X is half of Z they are saving money without making the other changes that need to go along with it.

Mike I ran 35K miles on my 02 with never touching the oil drain plug so your thinking is extremely skewed, the only reason I drained the oil was to flush after and injector swap, the UOA analysis was still excellent at 35k miles with nothing but a full flow filter change every 5k and both filters changed every 10 k miles and just top off the oil lost from filter change. Your way is more expensive long term. I could have changed the full flow every 10K and the bypass every 20K and still been ok from what I was seeing. $17 bucks every 7500-10K for a UOA and 1-2 quarts of oil is doubling the price of an oil change HMMMM math don't add up there either. Plus you are looking at Amsoils suggested retail pricing. Not even close to what I pay. On a 2nd gen you can get by cheaper as they run cleaner, I would never chance it on the cr or newer engines with the higher heat and emissions.

The main reason I went with it was to expand my options and the fact I have never put gauges on the rig since owning it, wanted to go digital display but wasn't really seeing what I was looking for until this sweet thing appeared and knew instantly it was the one. Only thing is for 05 it doesn't have tranny temp for a PID it displays so that would be the only physical gauge along with a fuel supply pressure gauge I would need to add separately and I think when I do these they will be in a dual pod on top of the steering column..

Well since pickins are slim for vendors here DAP got the order for the new Smarty Touch and Pyro kit. should see it next week I hope.

Ha Ha I can see Mike going to the fair grounds and burglarizing all the porta potties now. Gives new meaning to "TP" creeping.................

I sent you a pm Mike. Let me know. I ran / still run an amsoil bypass system on my 02 and on my 05, I built my own mounts for each, on the 02 I made a mount that replaced the battery hold down on the passenger side and that worked good but I eventually made a different one that mounted on top of the left front corner of the head in a void there and it worked for the 05 in the same spot as well. I use the short EABp 90 filters and they have done great for me. I change oil every 10K miles on the 05 and do both filters at the same time but I could go further but since I hardly get that many miles on it in a year anymore I just stick to that even if it goes over a year. I also use the billet oil caps for the return and they are awesome as well. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/single-remote-bypass-kit/?code=BMK21-EA

I can't believe I beat dorkweed on this one. So you basically need a roll designed for this? Then you may need this...................

Anyone know the difference in SSR and TNT R? They both require an unlock code but I see ramblings of TNT R but no description of it anywhere on their site only SSR info.

Never seen any higher than normal iron but on both my 02 and 05 the copper was/ has always been very slightly elevated which from talking to lab techs in our local Cat dealers oil lab is not uncommon with certain oils and nothing to worry about.

Sold my Smarty Jr. this morning, its headed for an 04.5 in PA, now I get to finally order my first major upgrade in several years. Going to order the smarty touch system for my 05 next week. Anyone have any input as to the best vendor to get one from, I know there are no "Deals" with them all vendors are locked into selling for the same price from what I see but want to get input as to which vendor folks think I should support and why, obviously since the buyer found my Smarty for sale in my signature link to the add on here of all places I will give a MM1973man vendor the business to support the family.

WAAAAYYY TOOOO QUIET AROUND THE FORUM TODAY, NO POSTS SINCE 11 am THIS MORNING 8.5 hours with nothing I can't stand it. Lets try to wake the place up with some professional worm grunting. Why can I picture Yabba Doo doing something like this?

I agree totally with this statement, so many people put no value on their time when it comes to personal things but I do when it comes to things like this as it could have been time spent enjoying other things in life rather than stewing over it.

I think my original 02 pump bit it in the mid 20K miles range under warranty shortly after I bought it, started out by surging faintly with the cruise set and then no start when hot one day, let it cool and it got me to the dealer with dead pedal syndrome. Ran that one until the HP bug got me and swapped it for a HRVP44 from II. sold the stocker and I put about 100K on the II pump and it was going strong when I sold it at 155K miles.

Even if they do hook up a puter then you get a swag. "Scientific wild a$$ guess".

I say 4:10, easy to find and good all around with bigger tires. 4:56 would be ok with your current tire size but if you backed down you would not be happy, you could drag race from light to light with 40K in tow.

I have said it many time and will again, Flat rate shops absolutely hate to troubleshoot things complicated, hard to make money by beating the flat rate time tables with these types of issues, just throw parts at it until the issue or the customer goes away hopefully and charge for parts and flat rate time for said component swap.

The only reason I was running the 5w20 is that is what is recommended for the MDS system on the 5.7 hemi to supposedly function properly in cold temps since the oil flow to the tappets is solenoid controlled so I gave it a try, the 5.7 hemi without the mds system uses 5w30 or 10w30 in the 2500's, so I switched it over to the 5w30 as that is what I use in my 2011 3.5l V-6 Nissan Murano so only having one oil on the shelf for 2vehicles works better anyhow. Have not noticed any difference in the MDS system operation after the switch in cold temps.