Wild and Free

Does it mean that I'm a bad person if I'm laughing out loud at this while I'm commenting on how mean this is?

Pretty much looked like me about 2 summers ago at the lake or on the river after a few too many beverages. Not anymore, 82 lbs. lighter and fit as a fiddle!

For 2K you can build one similar and better and save the hassle of moving one, doesn't look to high quality of a build in the first place.

Seems they are all camera shy..........

The order I would suggest is as follows. 1. save up some cash 2. go to dealers or shop the net for a newer diesel or even gas pickup as they have more power than the old diesels did, my 2010 5.7 hemi would run circles around my 02 cummins when it was stock.. 3. pick out your favorite one. 4. make the deal and enjoy it.

I still think 4x4 compact tractor is best for overall property use all year long, mower, tiller, loader, front and mid PTO on a lot of them and an endless amount of different attachments for loader and or 3pt. Look into the BX series Kubota tractors, those things are awesome little dynamos, small package with more punch and potential than any other on the market.

You guys out west may want to keep your eyes open and cameras running, there was another video sighting a couple days ago in Utah. http://www.coasttocoastam.com/pages/utah-bigfoot-footage

Not knowing the space you have to work with or the amount or type of snow its hard to give advice, do you have pics of the driveway area of the property to get a better idea of your situation? Personally from my experience of having an old Ford 651 tractor with loader and a small garden tractor with front mount belt driven blower and a Honda ATV with plow and now an older hydrostatic drive B2150 24hp 4x4 Kubota with loader and 3pt snow blower I would never go back to anything else ever again, so many other uses for this compact Kubota tractor and better than a skid steer as well, doesn't tear up the lawn when turning either like a skid steer does. If you watch one can pick up good used 4x4 compact tractors for the same price as an ATV.

I grew up driving a 1940's Chevy 1 1/4 ton truck and some 1960 's and 70's IH 1 1/2 ton and bigger grain trucks and semis and various other trucks as a kid on the farm so believe me when I say I know what loose steering is, heck my first vehicle was a 1966 GMC 2wd half ton and all had 1/4 + turn of the steering wheel before doing any noticeable steering "and that was with the old steering wheels that were huge as compared to modern rides." Anyone who wants to complain about steering needs to revisit history and learn how to drive an old rig and become fluent with them, I can set you up with a old IH M narrow front end tractor in a gopher mound & badger hole infested hay field to really show you what bad steering is all about. Its a miracle I am not disabled by the steering wheels of some of the old stuff I learned to drive that had no power steering. Back on topic, I have had to do steering work on every ride I have ever owed and driven over the years no matter the brand name on the grill except for my wife's 03 Jetta with 280K miles on it. That thing seems 2B bullet proof even seeing thousands of miles of gravel roads a year too.

I have always heard the term weasel pecker and thought of it as a somewhat derogative term but I guess I was wrong, they actually exist.............THEY ARE REAL!!!!!! According to the news....................it eventually fell off................the weasel that is lol. http://www.foxnews.com/science/2015/03/03/photographer-catches-weasel-hitching-ride-on-woodpecker-back/

Rules out driveline then, tick from engine compartment and shakes your hand at idle while not moving at its worst. Check your fan hub clutch bearing assembly to make sure it isn't failing and the fan to make sure all the blades are on it to rule out a fan out of balance. It doesn't seem to be an engine miss does it? Does it start fine hot and cold, with no unusual smoke at startup? What part of the country are you in, is fuel supply Winter fuel or not?

And it still vibrates after the injector R&R then? If so does it do it while moving only or even sitting still in neutral and park or in gear but stopped? Sorry for the 100 question quiz but just looking for all the details to start nailing it down to a certain area.

And this is after the redone injector install ? Any codes present? Any excessive blowby vapors? Did you check the valve adjustment while the valve cover was off doing the injectors?

Until he gives us more details this doesn't make sense as he said it does it at idle too in his original post.

Can you give more details on the vibration, in gear or in park /neutral, cab rattles or can feel slight vibration in floor or steer wheel or mirrors vibrate bad to where you can't see from them, ect. The vibration just started out of the blue or progressed to be worse? Any unusual noises along with vibration. You didn't mention if the vibration is still there after the injector R&R or not, I presume it still does since you posted about it.

Can you fill in your signature with a description of your ride and any mods if any, it would help us to help you a lot with more with some info to go on.

I find this subject like the FASS or Air dog thing. Remember when they both claimed the same thing as this product by removing air?????????????????? I hear absolutely no discussion of the effects of the intended design nor do I hear of efficiency gains from installing 90gpm or 150gpm++ pumps only hear of pump and pressure issues and absolutely no discussion about the original intent, why is this?

This is like pump discussions, there are many turbo wheel and housing designs and flow is as important here as boost. On my 02 with an II silver 62 I was set at 42 psi max boost which is the map of the turbo and ran 560 hp, this is a case where air flow was more than boost in turbo design, but I admit the silver 62 is a better mid to high rpm range turbo than low rpm turbo.

I was pretty close hp wise but fell short on the torque a bit, did you do the runs in 4th or 5th?. Good numbers. What is all done and added to the 3rd gen? As far as the smarty they have made so many updates they probably got it tuned in from the early days.

Just had a link to this e-mailed to me from another Dodge forum. Just wondering what everyone else's take is on this system, good, bad or just more hype like 99% of the rest of the ones with high claims but no results other than to drain our pocket books. http://ecofuelmaximizer.com/

Similar old saying is Hp is how fast you can hit the wall, Torque is how far you can push the wall.

I like to use heavy blade gasket scrapers, they are wider and will not damage or distort things like a screw driver or chisel when working it in gently with a small hammer. Also make sure the bolt holes are cleaned out very good as well, I see way too many holes stripped out of housings cracked when folks run the bolts into holes with RTV half filling them up causing a hydraulic lock which easily strips threads or cracks housings.

One can't "Like" your posts? Thanks I knew one had to hhold one button or a combo of buttons, been over a couple years since owning it.