Wild and Free

Don't be confusing people here now.........................cylinder temps can be significantly different than overall exh temps. There are many things that can affect cylinder temps which unless you are running a large engine with a pyro probe directly in the exhaust port next to the valve like Cat has or other big engines we are limited to checking egt of all cylinders as a combined unit within the manifold which is ok but not overly accurate in the grand scheme of things versus seeing individual cylinder temps right at the cylinder.

The ecm sends 5V out to sensors transducers ect and it looks for variances or fluctuations in the return signal which should always be less than 5 v if things are working properly, when testing things make sure of signal wires and return voltages if checking at components, this can throw off a lot of people when troubleshooting thinking they have an issue by not seeing 5v on the ecm return wire.

That sucks................hopefully he reimburses you for the work that will need to be done along with the towing costs and your friends fuel and time.

Key word is "Dust" seal, there are many applications where lip seals are used as a dust seal and the spring side faces to the outside of a compartment versus in as would be the normal case if it was to be used as an oil seal. It has been many years since I have done a vacuum pump reseal so without seeing pics of it I can't say what is right or wrong in the pics. In fact there are many cases where lip seals are installed lip side out of compartments that get greased so the grease can ooze past the seal lip and the seal keeps moisture and dust out but while being greased prevents them from being pushed out as the seal won't hold pressure and will allow the grease to purge past the lip.

3 wire usually means it has a signal wire then "5V generally" and Hi voltage equals an open wire or bad transducer not varying the return current signal, the ecm is seeing a full 5 volt return which it shouldn't if the transducer or wire were good there would be a slight voltage drop. If it was low voltage it would be a shorted wire to ground not returning any signal as it would be flowing to ground.

2 wire or three, pressure or temp?

Seems to be a lot of debate over an issue in which we don't even know yet other than a "Knock". You left out one important piece of info and nobody has asked yet............What level and setting was the Edge on?

Until we get rid of the 2 party system who all act like there is a difference between them in front of cameras but all do the same thing behind closed doors and start electing "Statesmen" again who want to promote our "Republic" form of government rather than the "Democratic" form that it has been transformed into over the last few decades we will never gain the upper hand. My post wasn't aimed at you MOM, just seems to be some double standards on posting political talk out in the open forums or what is construed as or not.

Can't believe this hasn't brought out the political speech hammer of someone here and been moved to the political section yet for hurtin someones feelins..................................just saying

Then move to Siberia.....................as Moparmoms post would lead you to rather than complainin about America......................... or As dorkweed would say.................Just sayin.......................... or as our dictator would say to the less educated when he drops his "G"'s from his vocabulary. "Stop hatin" You can wet your britches and stay cool for some time after the initial warmth is gone...................

So if I have a regular cab long box which is the same wheel base as an extended cab short box then what should we all do???????????? Sorry just had to throw it in the mix folks........................But this is where all started years ago before extended , quad, crew or mega cabs became the norm.......remember??????

I had similar EXPERIENCES WHEN I STARTED THERE TOO, BUT IF ONE SPENDS TIME READING THERE IS NO FORUM ON HE WEB I HAVE FOUND WITH BETTER IN DEPTH AND DETAILED WRITE UPS ABOUT EVERYTHING ONE COULD IMAGINE ABOUT vw'S . Just need to read and research rather than post at first, I have posted several times and gotten excellent info once searching and reading threads was exhausted which takes a while with the extensive amount of info there is there. Sorry about fat fingering the caps.

Not sure if the PD engines have the same issue as the earlier ones like my 03 but the egr and the pcv system work together to carbon the intake manifold solid with soot and oil gunk that turns into a black carbon residue that is hard as heck. At about 150K my wife said it would surge and lose power on hills but run normal under low power needs or normal cruising, did some looking and pulled the intake manifold and couldn't believe it could run at all as it was about 90% plugged and into the intake ports on the head, took me a couple of hours to clean it out, she is closing in on 300K and am waiting for it to happen again anytime.

Just being creative.........................what did he have added for that conglomeration of spaghetti?

lol..........that's what you get for taking vacation , wife and I travel a fair bit and it never fails one always pays the price afterwards in stuff that got put on a back burner biting you or all the other stuff that pops up out of the blue.

Water pumps on a d-max are just as bad, major project to swap.

Same here been in the low to mid 80's tops and hanging in the 70's mainly which is ok with me but going to be in the low to mid 80's for the foreseeable future forecast here starting tomorrow. Been that way for the last 3 summers already and don't see decent boating weather until late June as well. Have not seen wind storms like we have had the last 2-3 years either, seems the wind blows harder every year. Just had several miles of power lines snapped off a few miles from my house a couple weeks ago from straight line winds in the 80-100+ mph range, normally only see power poles downed after ice storms and wind following. Saw a news article a few weeks ago and ND was the only state in the lower 48 that didn't increase average temps over the last few years we actually cooled a couple degrees on average.

You will not need another cooler unless you do nothing but stop and go city all day or do a lot of trailer backing ect.

The one on the side of the block is a heat exchanger it helps warm the tranny oil in the winter and helps keep it cooler in instances where the tranny oil is higher than the engine coolant temp thus the name of heat exchanger the one up front is a cooler. and yes if you want the one on the side of the block could be eliminated if need be. But it is all in series so there are not two sets of lines per say just a few in a line, flow goes out tranny to exchanger from there to cooler and back directly to tranny from cooler. The adapter torques should be the same no matter what tranny is hanging off the back.

D60 was used in all front axle applications of 2500 & 3500 4x4, d70 was rear of 2500 autos only and d80 was in manual tranny 2500's and all 3500 rigs. This pertains to 2nd gen only.

Of course they said you don't need a temp gauge in a manual tranny, they want to sell parts and service and by you knowing when to back down they lose out on both! If they truly believe that then I would find a shop with someone who is a bit smarter than these guys.

There isn't any camber adjustment unless you put adjustable upper ball joints in. I said caster and it is adjustable by the front cam on the lower control arms, positive caster is when the lower ball joint is ahead of the centerline of the spindle visualizing a verticle line from upper to lower ball joint, this is what is wanted to help wandering issues.

Drill a hole in the side pto cover and mount it right there about mid point of the oil level. depending on the sender you may need to weld or braze a fitting into the cover to screw the sender into. They do make pan fittings that have a seal washer on both sides and the sender screws into the fitting.

What has been done to the steering system to date? I have done the brace on 2 second gens and one 3rd and to be honest unless you have large tires or a snow plow or heavy bumper it is not a big advantage to doing anything with tightening up the steering on a second gen. The one must do and best steering improvement is to put a Borgeson steering gear and shaft on goes from 4.5 turn lock to lock to about 3.3 turns, much tighter, more responsive and easier to drive, second is to max out the cams on the lower control arms to get max caster, helps it track straighter and you can not et too much caster on our rigs that is why you can max out the adjuster cams.

Standard of any component, want to stay under 230+- a few, anything over 240+ is what breaks down the oil and things go down hill fast at that point. It also depends a lot on if it is synthetic or standard oils used and what weight of oil as well. Synthetics can handle closer to 300 for short periods and dino oils will degrade at a lower temp and sooner. You get into oil flash points where it becomes extremely flammable at between 350-500 depending on oils and viscosities, this is well beyond any oils capabilities of protection, it was long gone dead before getting to this point.