mopartechnician

When i do my air dog, im going to do a beans diesel sump. So much easier than messing with a draw straw. If you dont want to do that it will depend on how much fuel is in the tank

Just to rule this out. Open the filler cap and smell to see if there is gas in your tank. I have seen many times people putting gas in without knowing.I would suspect you have a fueling problem. Maybe the lift pump going bad? I'm not very good with 12 valves.

Ya thats where I am sitting now. I am going to email them today and see what I can get. I know a lot of people use them and heard stories about stanadyne using the company to make a formula for standyne. Guess i wilk just run 2-stroke oil until I can hear results

Anybody running this fuel additive? I ran it in my 06 when I had it and my dad has been running it in his 06 for about 2 years. Seems like pretty good stuff. I need to order more but just seeing what your guys opinions on it are. $180 shipped isnt too bad, espcially at 300/1 in the winter. http://www.amalgamatedinc.com/

Ya i was going to put he 04.5 uses differnet nozzles that the 03-04 but I ended up wording it wrong. So i see where you get the confusion

The ho and non ho are different injector nozzles. The ho has I think one more hole. I had a customer that told me he had a 04.5 ho motor, so I installed the injectors and this thing smoked like there was no turbo. Anyways, come to find out he has a early 04 motor and he thought he had a ho because it was a manual. So now I always look at the engine label. When I first heard about this, I was thinking bad injectors. That is how I used to find bad injectors was to put the truck under the load and listen for knocking like an old 12 valve, then with the star scan I would cut out each injector until the knock went away. I have never heard of the pump on the cp3 going bad, but I am always learning stuff everyday. I wonder why the pump is putting air into the rail and how its getting into the fuel system?

http://www.genosgarage.com/BORGESON-REMAN-STEERING-BOX-03-08-4WD/productinfo/BORG-800116/ These are suppose to be the best

I have never seen the injector codes throw an ecm code but you never know. And the valve cover gasket isnt going to fix your injector ohming out so high

I have rust on the bottom of my doors and a hole above my rear wheel well about the size of a racket ball. I am going to sand everything down, spray a rust killer/primer where I sand. I still have to figure out what I am going to do with the hole, but I am either going to chip out the rust and fill it with something or have the body shop cut it out and put a patch panel in. After this is all done, I am going to get the rocker panels and around the wheel wells sprayed with bed liner to hopefully prevent the metal from ever having contact with oxygen/water ever again.

Ok the first thing to do is never go in there and give them attitude. That will ____ them off right away and won't help you at all. Is the truck under warranty?If you got a tank of bad fuel, how would that be dodge's fault? As far as what codes you have, your number 5 injector is bad or the wiring of the valve cover is bad. It will be easy to find if you ohm out the injector and ohm out the wiring unhooked. The injector should not be over 1 ohm. Any one over will cause problems. A bad tank of fuel will never cause the electrical problems your having with the injector. I actually just worked on a truck last week with a #3 injector that ohmed out at 1.7 ohms. The ecm code is, well the ecm is screwed. I have never heard of a valve cover gasket taking out the ecm. What test are you talking about that that proves dodge knows about the bad wiring? And as far as circuit protection, I know the tipm uses whats called high side drivers to knock out power if there is ever a short, but I'm not sure the ecm does this also.

Like I said before, I would run with the fuel cap loose to prevent the vacuum. I wouldn't worry about mileage, I would be more worried about damage to the vp44

Was the t-case ever taken out? The reason I ask is because every t-case that I have done that had never been out before had really tight nuts. But ones that had been out before usually were easier to loosen.

Actually if you loose vacuum the vents default to defrost just incase this happens and its snowing/freezing. I would take you hvac controller off and if you have a vacuum pump, try adjusting the doors with the pump. You might have a frozen door

I would try to find a nv4500 or nv5600 before the g56. I'm not a big fan of the 56's because they have a lot of problems and can't hold up to the power. Also I'm sure they 56 is different length and you would have to find a t-case that would fit it, then different drive shafts. I'm sure you could do it but why not find a trans that you know actually fits in the truck

I had this happen to my 02 after I installed my raptor. Don't know why but every once in a while it would start hard if I would drive it awhile, shut the truck off and then start it back up. Finally figured it out that there was vacuum in the tank. So I just started leaving the cap loose and never had the problem again. Its going to be hard on the vp44 when the fuel is having a hard time getting out of the tank. I don't know if the roll over valves are suppose to bleed off any pressure/vacuum or not. You could hook a hose to the fitting on the module that just has a rubber plug, then run the hose up as high as possible and coil it to prevent any water from getting in.

I would look at the connector tube O-rings. They usually act up when the engine is cold but not when warm. But I have seen them do weird things before.

I've rebuilt them and aren't really hard to do. The hardest part is the camshaft tappets but if you can rotate the block upside down then you don't have to worry about them falling out. We obviously used mopar parts when I worked at the dealer, but talk to your local machine shop and they will order everything you need and find out if they can machine whatever you need.

Ya I have seen too many read wrong or stop working and then all you got is a fancy screen with buttons to change power levels.

No, you will still need gauges, that's the only downfall to a smarty. Its just a programmer so you put in the program, unhook and throw it under the seat. I suggest getting gauges no matter what chip/programmer people get.

Ya I don't see any reason that the shafts wouldn't go back in. I have pulled many axle shafts out of 70/80 and have never had problems going back together. I would suggest pulling the cover because it will probably show you whats caught up, I would suspect a spider gear hanging up or rotated.

Its totally up to you but I am not impressed with the bullydog products. They had their day but now they are way behind on the times. If you decide on something I would go with a smarty since you will have gauges. As far as gauges, egt/boost/trans temp. Autometer makes some factory match ones but I am not impressed with the quality. I used to use dipricols but they went out of business. Another gauge that I have installed is glowshift, they are in my opinion the same quality as autometer but they don't cost that much. Oh and by the way, plant your money tree now, because I always tell people, if you wanna play like a trucker, your gonna pay like a trucker.

Welcome to the site. On your model year, the things to look for are worn out front suspension, blow by (which was described nicely earlier) and the thing I would do to find a bad injector was to open the drivers door to the first stop and rev the engine to 1700 rpms and hold it there. Then watch the door to see if the door rattles or vibrates. Also on the test drive if you can find a hill where you will be putting a load on the engine, drive it so the engine is around 1750 rpms and listen for a knock similar to a 12 valve cummins. As far as other stuff, I run my oil at least 7500 miles, I also use regular rotella (I don't believe in synthetics) also use a good fleetguard filter, don't use any cheap filter because they have been known to break up and blow up engines. Also look into either a airdog/fass with filters or an inline filter setup. Getting clean fuel to the injectors is crucial, the stock lift pumps hold up actually really well on a stock truck. And if you ever have the stock one go out, you don't have to worry about taking out the cp3 since there is a small pump in the cp3 to draw fuel to lubricate/cool it in that case. Do as little idling as possible. The best way to warm your truck up is to start it and wait for oil pressure, then drive it. If you have an auto, you might have the high idle feature enabled through the cruise control that will raise the rpms if you have to idle, to put a load on the engine. That's all I can think of off the top of my head. If you have anymore questions, don't be afraid to ask.

Just for your information you can have a fully built goerend trans with triple disk billet tq billet input valvebody deep pan and upgraded internals for like $5000. I installed one on a 03 and that thing shifts better than a car. Just letting you know one of your options. I love manuals but I have been seeing too many lately going bad with syncros and nuts backing off and tear up gears.

Honestly, I would rebuild the auto, the conversions can get expensive and if you ever have to rebuild the manuals they are really expensive. I know it can be done but you have way more ambition than I do.

Mine was doing the same thing. I added a can of r134 and its working way better when sitting. I think I'm just gonna take it in and have it charged the right way with a machine since I wasn't very good at a/c. I was spoiled and had the machines that automatically did all the recovery and charging.