volkswagon

Not trying to be a pain in the butt here but what good will that do? Unless your truck runs different than mine, but mine gets the best mpg's in D at somewhere around 2000 rpm.

Moparman you are awesome! I didn't believe this could be the problem but on a hunch I took the power wire off the alternator. Immediatlely the goofy little hop that had been going on occasionally quit so I took the old girl out for a spin. I really rooted on er quite a few times and no tach jumping or . I drove back in the shop and put the wire back on the alternator, instantly it gave it's little hop. I stepped on the throttle and the tach was jumping again. Boy am I going to sleep good tonight:hyper:

That's what it was! Thanks a bunch:thumb1:

May I ask why you want to put one of these on your truck?

Can anybody offer any advice?

Yup the M55's are great. Dad has them on his truck and I don't know the mileage but it's all gravel out here and they've lasted forever. And all the oil field trucks out here run them too. That says a lot to me.

I'll get that done. Thanks for all the help:thumb1: I'll post up-dates as they come along.

Answers in red. As I said this ohms stuff gets to me so out of desperation I ran a new wire from #18 at ecm to #8 at pump. No change so I guess the original wire must've still been ok.

You'll be happy with them! Make sure you get the dimmer to go with them. I didn't and they are considerably brighter than the stock gauges.

Always p0336. Just now I had a p1690 but haven't had time to look it up. Was in the shop tinkering with it again and now I got it to throw the codes with the Comp off. First time it's ever done that.

Not sure what you mean by the ecm? I have the ev2 gauges and all there is is the gauge, wire harness, and sending unit. The wires were long enough too so it was pretty easy installing. Do you have a link or something to show me that ecm thing? As far as I know it's all built into each gauge.

Ok I checked the grounds where the diagram says the ecm grounds to. Found some pretty ugly connections there so fixed that all up and still the problem persists. I even went to my friends place and tried his Comp on my truck to see if it was to blame in any way (because the problem only shows itself on levels 2-5) but it acted the same way. Any more ideas, aside from changing the ecm:clap:?

It stops as soon as I let off on the throttle. --- Update to the previous post... Where can I find a wiring diagram for this? I looked in the downloads but couldn't find what I needed. --- Update to the previous post... Ok I tested the voltage at the sensor. 4.73 volts when grounding through the connector but 4.97 volts when ground the volt meter right to the ground on the battery. Could I be getting a poor ground to/through the ECM? If so how and where does it get its ground? --- Update to the previous post... Is there nobody reading on here today? I could sure use some input if someone has some.

When I first hooked up my mystery switch it worked great. Now it locks the convertor for maybe half a minute then it unlocks and I have to turn the truck off before it will work normally again. Gives me p0723 code which I had before too when it worked normally. p.s. I took the switch and wiring out when the truck went to the tranny shop for the rebuild cuz I didn't want them down my throat for using it. This problem occured after I got the truck back and rewired it.

I'll try these things but the problem I'm seeing with it is that everything works normal till I really root on the throttle. Did some testing on the way home from work today and it does it on power levels 2-5 on the Comp. On power level 1 and stock it won't do it. As for the connector at the cks it looked like new when I was under there last night. I put a bunch of dielectric grease in the connection before installing too.

I've been getting code 0336, crankshaft position sensor, lately so I changed the sensor tonight. Still the same problem. Under heavy acceleration the tach bounces around and the comes on. When I'm towing a heavy load the tach will stay at zero long enough that the engine defuels some. To me it seems to be related to the extra vibration caused by the increased power. Any ideas what I should look for next?

Way to go:thumb1:

Thanks I'll check that out. --- Update to the previous post... Do you know anything about a Curt Captivater 2 controller? That's what Dad has in his truck. I've searched a bit on that one but haven't found anything yet.

That's the one. What's your thought on it, good, bad, or somewhere in between?

I have a Tekonsha controller and don't know how to set it. I forgot to check what model it is but it has a dial on each side and a little LED or something on top that goes from green to red depending on how hard you're braking. Can someone tell me how to set it or where I can find instructions? It was in the truck when I got it.

[quote= For a while, I thought that keeping the engine RPM low that I was getting the best MPG, on this I was WRONG. I found that keeping the RPM up around 1900-2100, that I was getting better MPG's by using the ECO setting on the overhead. Now, I realize that every truck is different, and they all get different MPG's, you just have to find the best RPM/gear that your engine/trans delivers. QUOTE] Interesting point as I was the same way, always running low rpm til I got my Scangauge. Now I run in the 1900-2100 range as well. I haven't had a chance to run much for testing with my IAT fooler but observing the Scangauge I'd say for me it doesn't do anything. I guess I just have one of those 'different trucks'.

$4.35 a gallon, $1.15/L here in Manitoba. $4.54/gallon, $1.20/L just across the border into Saskatchewan.

Have you tried to set it on ECO, and try and keep it above 20? What is this you're talking about?

Well today I hauled a load for a friend and had a stressful encounter with a DOT. After we got the issue settled I pulled in at the cardlock for fuel and in my befuddled mindset I put 16.5 gallons of GASOLINE:cookoo: The nozzle kicked out and I thought it bubbled kind of funny in the filler pipe so for some reason I smelled the end of the nozzle:cry: That's when I turned around and saw the big GASOLINE word on the bowzer. Luckily the hose from the airdog to the ip was long enough to reach into my empty slip tank in the bed of my truck. I just put a jumper wire in the pump relay plug and let er pump all that conction out and into my slip tank. The other good thing is now I know that my tank holds 35.2 gallons of fuel when the pump sucks air. Lets see what kind of bloopers you guys have made.