volkswagon

I've been having a problem with my pressure. It's running between 20 and 21 while cruising but then it'll start bouncing down to 17 or 18. I just can't figure why it'd do something like this. I have a shim in the spring to be getting 20 psi but doubt if it'd be causing a problem. Any ideas?

This is ok but it won't give you any indication of when your filter is plugging, if you're running the stock filter. If you have it between your filter and the vp44 it will show a reduction in pressure when your filter is getting plugged.

I'm no good with helping you with your last post but I can make an ECM suggestion. I just put in a rebuilt one from Go ECM. Works like a charm so far and it has a 1 year warranty. When I talked to them they only had 1 left after I bought one. They said they're getting really hard to find since there's so many failing.

Yup welcome here:thumb1:

Well my Luke's Link is now wore out. I was out in the pasture yesterday bumping around when the track bar simply fell off the ball. Talk about a squishy ride home with no stability to the front axle:rolleyes: So now I'm shopping track bar and I'm going with the 3rd gen upgrade. Are they all the same? There seems to be a number of options out there.

So what kind of $ did you have to spend on the project? I've entertained the idea myself but don't really know where to start looking or what is all needed.

Thanks for the tips! I used some of this http://www.powerupusa.net/info_rcl1000.htm because I had some handy. If they seize up again I'll use what you guys have recommended.

I discovered that the pins that the front calipers slide on were really stiff. I took them out and cleaned them and now I wonder what kind of lube to put on them, if any.

Now I see that it was only $2. Oh well my opinion stays the same:thumb1:

Well I had trouble with my electric sender until I installed a grease gun hose.

I don't know how to fix the cup holder because mine still works good. I sure don't think I'd spend $7 on that guy. It's only $7 but I bet it wouldn't do you any good. Just my

I did this too. It's pretty handy but there is one thing that I don't like. When I have it locked up it doesn't shift out of overdrive for some reason. Can anybody explain this?

I just took a peak over at CF and there's a new-in-box Jacob's brake over there. The guy is asking $600. Good, bad, or somewhere in between? It is Dodge part # 82204664. P.S. I'm also wondering if there's any way to control the transmission shift points so that I can manually downshift and get the RPM high enough to make the brake work? I guess it must work since guys have them but these are just questions that I have. That one just sold:banghead: But I'd still like an answer about the shifting if someone can help.

That is one serious hoe! Around here if we see a 450 we think that's pretty something. You obviously work in some sort of mine.

Do you guys not have DOT's down there?! If I tried hauling stuff like that I'd be pulled off the road before I started!

Is that like boost pressure or drive pressure?

It's a $1000 option. Ya they rate the fuel mileage better than the 5.0 but my bro in-law has a 2011 5.0 and he's getting better mileage than we got on the test drive with the v6. Having said that tho he did say that his mileage has gone up since the truck was new.

Thanks guys. Any input on whether there's one brand that's better than another? Of course every brand says theirs is best!

I am wondering if there is anybody here with an exhaust brake on a 2nd gen with automatic tranny? Do they work good together? There are transmission controls available that lock the torque convertor while braking but do they only lock up in overdrive and drive, or in gears below that? I've been trying to cut through the clutter on everything that's available but not having much luck. Hopefully someone here can help me out. Also what's the best brand to be looking at? Thanks!

I know how you feel. No sign of it coming down here either. Still paying $1.249/L, that's $4.72/gallon.

Got the wiring diagram attached to my previous post now.

Don't get me going:lol:

Glad to hear you're ok but too bad for the others! Ya we know about flooding too. Our church did a bunch of sandbagging a couple weeks ago when one of the local creeks came up to unprecidented levels. Now our local city is frantically raising dikes along the Assinaboine river which flows thru the city. Some mistake was made on flow calculations earlier and they didn't raise the dikes enough, supposedly they were going to be 2 feet too low:duh: Just glad I live on high ground.

I just got my high idle/mpg fooler modified to where I wanted it. The four controls on the right are for the mpg fooler using 2 momentary swithes to activate a DPDT relay which puts the 5k pot inline instead of the IAT sensor. (the black one activates it and the red one is to cancel it. It cancels when the ignition turns off) The bottom right is the 5k POT and the top right is an indicator light for when the fooler is active. The 2 toggles in the middle are for the high idle. I used one DP3T switch to replace the 2 that previously controlled the IAT fooling. Then the 2 on the left are my mystery switch with the top one being an indicator light for when it is activated. I know the labeling looks pretty tacky for now but I'm thinking about how to improve that. I can post up the wiring diagram if anybody is interested. Got the wiring diagram attached here now.

I did the borgeson box and wow what an improvement:stuned: I think you should move it up your list quite a bit:lol: