Me78569

I can't see how it would put more stress on the pump. End timing difference will be largest at idle and less as rpms increase.... I think Cold start shouldn't be an issue, our trucks crank at 17* when hot and significantly more when cold. it will be fnu to mess with.

so I started off at %130 to get that .5 gallon difference of the quad saying I used less fuel than I actually did, I went ahead and adjusted to %135 and found that I had not swung hte otherway and had a 1 gallon offset saying I used a gallon more than I actually did. so I went back and did %131 and we will see how close we are.

Alright, @dieselautopower setup a set of 7 x .012's for me with a little twist. I asked them to set them at 330 bar rather than the normal 305-310 bar. Keep in mind that the VP can generate ~1600 bar at full tilt. So the issue I am trying to see if we can solve is the idle / offidle smoke issues that are nearly inevitable with big boy injectors. My theory as to why this happens is that we vp44 guys have mechanical injectors. So we cannot dynamically raise pop pressure. When the VP is near idle what we find is that it is impossible to fully atomize fuel at 310 bar of pop pressure through the larger injector hole sizes. So my thought was why don't we jackup the injector pop pressure to try and help atomize fuel near idle. This increased pop pressure will make the injection event happen later so I may need to add a timing offset near idle to prevent lope etc. I am really not sure what will happen, but I am excited to figure it out. I plan on sticking these bad boys in sometime this week so we will see what happens. I need to start a gofundme account for a new billet input shaft and a triple disc converter because my poor single disc is not gonna like the new found power.

Wow you are shoving a ton of fuel at it. I would set your boost scaling to 40 psi, tps max to %80 or so. Then add WAY more timing up top. 1500:15 2000: 19 2500: 23 3000: 26 3500: 28 4000: 30 Max: 30

Thanks jimmy for the review!

you have no idea how many times that has happened to me. @Carbur8tr has a solution for you though.

Can you post up your tune?

Gallona used could be used to ahow how many gallons left.

Nope, speed is a pin input on the ecm harness. It is not read over ccd

Well i have been doing some beta testing on an instant mpg meter and a gallon used trip. Today was the first day i could calibrate my pumped gallons used vs the calculated gallons used. Happen to report my guess what only .5 gallon off. After calibration it us dead on. I need to run a few more tanks, but we should have these working based on injector size and the fueling command. Really cool stuff.

Get a obdlink tool. it's cheaper and do everything the scan gauge will.

Keeping in mind that this process if for guys with larger than stock injectors. With Stock injectors you can start your tune at %110 of so depending on how aggressive you want the tune.

You can move it around but the mileage settings etc are for 1 vehicle. Not all features work on a 2nd gen. The Data Bus of a 2nd gen is a scary and strange place for most of these types of devices. some things will work otheres wont, @Mopar1973Man can help you there What features of scan gauge do you want?

they market well, but there are other builders out there that do better injectors for a fraction of the cost. DAP, DFI are both builders that have cost effective injectors. Money no object then Weston or some other guy I can't think of right now.

Your canbus tuning starting point is VERY low. I start at %85 with my 7 x .009's at 7000' altitude. This is an indicator of your injectors being badly suited. I would expect you to be able to run smoke free at %90 starting point with 125 hp injectors. As for getting the turbo to light, more fuel. again the cone angle of the injectors is going to cause smoke issues the more you bring up fuel.

I helped him load up v2 this afternoon. @mossyoak71 I hate to say it but DDP injectors are a really bad injector to start with. @jlbayes can tell you what spec the nozzles are, but they are not right for truck application and they make tuning out smoke VERY tough. As a starting point I would try out my tunes. They likely won't pull enough fuel to clean up the injectors, but it is a start. Since you have good supporting mods you can run a fair bit of timing after 2k. sub 2k our trucks seem to like less than 20* total when on the throttle. Off the throttle some members such as @Mopar1973Man and @trreed say their trucks like 21-23* of timing at cruise state. all we really know is that each truck is a little different. What I have found for power is if you can tune your truck to just enough to go beyond haze into smoke then you will put down peak power. I am not talking thick smoke, but just beyond haze. I wouldn't say my truck is any more powerful with a starting % of 105 compared to ~94. Torque comes on harder at 105, but that is not a good indicator of power. the old butt dyno hasn't been calibrated recently so it is not trustworthy. If your butt dyno is calibrated I would find that odd.

Only thing i would change is that 65 mph mark. Find load at your cruising speed, 55 / 65 / 75, then add a few % like mike says.

...I hardly remember what I told you 5 minutes ago haha.

that sensor can cause the pcm to send a defuel command. Someone else had a similar issue recently.

have you looked at / replaced the VSS sensor on the trans?

so you tested being able to do 75 in 4th? it doesn't have a mph limiter in any other gear?

what room of the Murphy hotel are you saying it? pretty sure I am next door.

It's a sad trend. As soon as you teach a generation that they dont actually need to work for anything they stop having respect for what it takes to get that. It's not as easy as Bernie says..... we still have to work for what we have.

you are referring to the 950 rpm pass back and forth between ecm and quad?

I won't match that amount of info, but that info is not based on the actual fueling command