AH64ID

That sounds right. I used 33', and didn't think about it until after I posted. 6" of difference is a lot and easily noticeable.

If I did the math correctly 1° will give just under 7" of rise over 30'.

Any updates?

You want to get new injectors, not remans. OEM is good, BBi is best. There are lots of issues with reman's and it's not worth the little savings as good remans are not a lot cheaper and still have issues.

I use the prepaid UPS kit, I prefer the tracking option. I have never used Polaris, but I was never pleased with Blackstone and they charge extra for TBN.

I know you said it seems normal, but it sounds like a right front wheel bearing failure to me. It could also be a loose tie rod end and the tire is being pulled by the road surface, but sounds more like a dragging wheel bearing.

I use Oil Analyzers, it's a division of Amsoil and recommended by my local Cummins.

I agree, looks like 9" or so in the photos but they can be deceiving.

Yeah I am pretty sure the trailer was part of the drive axle weight.

Looks to me like the fwd trailer axle was on the scale with the truck. GCW seems legit ( or close), but the truck and trailer axle weights are off.

I use Oil Analyzers Inc. It's a division of Amsoil, but who my local Cummins uses as well.

I believe it was a 05 and early 06 issue. I know at a minimum my Oct '04 build MY05 and dad's Sep '06 build MY06 both had the flash. Cheapest way to get the flash is to find someone with a Smarty.

High pressure relief valve or cross tube torque.

It's been a few months since an update. I have a bit over 1,100 miles towing with the new motor and have made a couple small tweaks to the tune. All in all the tow tune is very plesant to drive, doesn't make any smoke and has plenty of power. I think I have it dialed in to where it won't go above 1250° at low rpms if I hit an unexpected hill at too low a speed (cruise at say 55 in 6th), which isn't the norm but it's nice to be good on the tune. I pulled one of my normal grades last weekend as heavy as I have ever been, 18,920, and it pulled it at about the same temp/load as when I pull the hill at 17,500 and still never broke 1,200° in 5th at 60mph. I then towed the TT a little lighter to put away for a bit this morning, and with a 15mph head wind at 1900 rpms (67) I was quite pleased. When I went to the larger tire my rpms at 65 dropped enough I wasn't sure how I would preform towing. I have about 150 miles towing at 65-68 and it works very well, but I hadn't taken any notes.. so here goes. Flat ground, ~17,000 GCW, 1900 rpms, 67 mph. Load ±33%, rail pressure ± 14,000, Pyro ±950°, boost ±8 psi, LP fuel 7 psi, coolant 190-192°. Ambient temp 59°, pre-turbo IAT 63°, intake manifold IAT 70°. Puts me around 5° of timing. I could pull those numbers all day long and be quite happy. I am guessing that it's around 12.5 mpg.

I drug the TT across town today without the WDH and the EZ-Flex made a HUGE change in the way the trailer tows without WDH. I would say there was a bigger change without the WDH than with, an it was a big change with. I have a few hundred more miles on it and it's still a surprising improvement. The wife even noticed from the passenger seat.

Michael, your like a Prius... good mileage in town and slower speed, but lower mileage up at speed. I wonder if the IAT mod hurts the higher rpm/load. I know the last time you posted 75mph stats it was very low mileage.. relatively. Do you do anything normally? I need to get out and do a 65 mph drive, but where and when :-) I did do an empty 75 run last week, and about 70 back from headwinds for over 100 miles. I think I was pulling 18.

Getting on the fuel!! The OP mentioned it was a shutdown issue, that tells me it happens as oil pressure drops.

If I could ever get a full tank of "normal" driving I would report my mileage... I just do do those anymore.

The fuel pump won't always run when the motor is hot, it just runs for a few seconds at most unless it's really cold. Then it will run for up to ~30 seconds. When it doesn't come on at all try bumping the starter, go to start for a split second but dont start it. Does that make it work?

Smarty modifies timing, so yes the peak pressure changes. Injectors only do what they are told, but the bigger the injector the shorter the ignition delay. Meaning that if you start to inject at the same time the bigger injector will start and finish combustion sooner. You can take timing too far advanced, or too far retarded to do any good. Too advanced can be very hard on pistons and head gaskets. I think nearly everyone sees a nice efficiency improvement over stock with a Smarty, unless you are always using the added power. My original Smarty Jr tuning (SW1 TM4 original Revo SW) gained 55/100 in middle of the rpm band on no more fuel than stock. Every motor model has had more emissions based tuning/parts than the previous model.. nothing you can do about that. The 03-04's are the least "smog" laden of the HPCR's, and IMHO all CR's are an improvement over the VP's from power to tuning, even mileage isn't much worse when you consider the weight difference. This is where Micheal will post his stats, but I have no doubt his mileage would take a big hit if he came to town and drove like most people. I also have no doubt I would be in the 20's every tank driving how and where he does, it's not apple-apples for most vehicle owners.

Since the OP said it was a change I presume it's not the normal sounds. Was the air filter type changes recently?

A wastegate is always closed at shutdown, so that's not it. The link Mike posted should help.

Yes there are, emissions and noise are the big reasons. I don't care as much about the emissions, but I do like my quiet motor.

I rattled more stock then on any Smarty tune I ran, now with the BBi's rattle... what rattle... You are on old Smarty software, TM2 is now more than TM4. It's hard to say, I know I couldn't run the tone ring mod and any smarty timing without issues.. I run less timing that stock in certain places. Rattle is a function of both timing and rail pressure, recall when your rail pressure sender failed?

I did the cam and saw a small gain in economy, but saw a big gain in drive-ability and low end grunt. I now have a different cam in it, and WOW it's as much better as the first cam was from stock. Still low cruise boost, but spools that turbo like it's for a 2.0L. Great low/mid power and it pulls hard thru 2900 rpms where I start to defuel.