AH64ID

Based purely on the ratings I'll take a Donaldosn over a a Fleetguard anyday. The Fleetguard is good, just not as good.

I did another 420 miles towing yesterday, and it was WINDY. I'll be lucky to have broken 10mpgs. I still never saw anywhere near a 300° difference, the biggest was about 240° and only for a few seconds. It seem's that 225° was about as big as it would get, but 200° was closer to the max.

I think they may decent filters, just not as good as the Donaldson.

Yeah that's the same stuff I have seen, I am just not sure it's as good as they indicate. I never saw a 300° difference under sustained load, but have a slightly looser turbine housing than many OEM turbos in recent history. I am guessing OEMs are more interested in ease of placement and random probe failure than anything else. My Jacobs exhaust brake came tapped and plugged, which is where my new post is installed.

Good deal! Be glad you went for it instead of post or a different spot. I did my first tow 2 days ago with a pre and post turbo pyro. Wow, I always knew pre was better on a modified engine but wow! The temp difference varied based on boost, load, and duration. The pre would heat up instantly with fuel and the post takes a while. Below 10 psi there was often only a 150° difference, but going from a low to high load could see 400° for half of a hill. I would say post is good in marine applications, but not so much in pickups or OTR rigs. It also surpised me how much hotter the post is at idle with the turbine wheel leeching heat slower than the exhaust manifold.

I know that I stop getting notifications quite often, it could be that... or life???

I think many people do/did.. With my bypass I need 14, so I buy a 2.5 and a 1.0 gallon jug from Amsoil.

I am pretty sure 2nd Gen's were 11.0 or 11.5 qts. I'll have to peek at the FSM. EDIT: 1996 FSM called for 10qts w/ Filter and the 2001 FSM called for 11.0 w/ Filter.

At what temp? Unless you have just been towing half-way is proper for 140-180° coolant temp. The cross hatch is 2qts long. You may prefer 12.5, but it's a 12qt system. Maybe it's what it's supposed to be and just different than the older truck? I know the CR's are less aggressive than the 12V's, and not sure on 24V's. Smoother doesn't always mean less power.

Elevation will increase smoke, not decrease it. CR's have a 12qt capacity. You can switch as much as you want between dyno and syn.

You made almost the exact same post 3 weeks ago, you don't work for Rickson do you?

I had a friend load his S06 onto his 03 and adjust the options, it does give him the wastegate option. Either that's new or I never noticed it before. Sorry for the misinformation. I would check fuel delivery first. Can you hear the LP running?

The next step is to find out why the Smarty thinks your 04 is an 04.5, I would PM BrianAtSmarty and get his thoughts. You may be easy with your right foot but the decreased tq management means less pedal for the same effect and less pedal means lower pressures in the 48RE. I would set the tq back to 1, or 2 at the most. What are the conditions of your filters? Have you checked for LP pressure?

It appears you are loading it correctly. Is it taking ~5 minutes when you load? It shouldn't be asking you about a WG unless you have an 04.5. If it's truly a 250 or 305hp 04.0 there is something wrong. I also don't recommend those settings on a stock auto trans, or you will get a new one VERY quickly with TQ on 3. TQ on 2 is even a crap shoot depending on your right foot. I would run SW3 TM2 TQ1 RP1 with a stock auto and drive nice. So lets verify the motor hp off the engine as well.

S06 works on 03-07, I think at first it didn't work on 03-04 but that was back in 2006. The S-04 was the first Smarty for the 3rd gen and it only works on 03-05. No smoke is a GOOD thing, and no smoke at WOT is NOT an indication of EGTs. The HE341 is a FAST spooling turbo, and the tunes are written to try and keep smoke down. Smarty smoke is almost always pre-boost smoke, unless your running too big of a software. I wonder if you are loading it correctly, it should be a HUGE difference. How are you loading and changing the software? When you first plug in it are there # signs on the startup screen? Have you updated it to the lastest software?

X2

That one isn't in your sig :-)

Looks like a 2006 dash to me.

Check this out. Buy it from Cummins. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/torque-converter-cooler-cummins-saved-me-big-t314731.html I am also finding it other places for under $600.

Holy crap that is not cheap!!!

I have heard of quite a few failing just like this one, not sure there is a better fix thou.

I'll play (looks like I can see why she weighs about 8400lbs) Drivers Door Spare Koozie Beer Bottle Opener Misc Keys Hand Sanitizer Leatherman Water Bottle, or 2.. depending on how much I drank on the last drive :-) Under Drivers Seat 10mm Glock MAG LITE Gloves Cubbies by Shifters .410 Shells 30 Herrett Rounds 300 H&H Rounds 20 ga shells Chapstick Ear Plugs Over Shifter Wifes Hair-tie's Ear Plugs (retainer kind) Pass Door Water Bottles MVUM (Motor Vehicle Use Maps) Wife's Stuff Under Pass Door Baby Wipes Kleenex TP Jockey Box Normal Truck Stuff Kleenex Spare toothbush/toothpaste/floss Napkins Plastic Silverware Spare Fuses Center Console Chargers Advil Gum Swiss Army Knife Under Back Seat Normally nothing crazy, too hard to access with kids seats installed Tool Box Diesel Additive ViAir Compressor Air Hoses and Fittings Recovery Gear (straps, clevis pins, etc) Spare Fuel/Oil Filters Spare Belt Misc 1/4" and 1/8' NPT Plugs Tie-Downs Spider Webs Various Ball Mounts Hi-Lift Jack Tire Chains (1 pr year round, 3 pr winter) Tool Box Can of Ether 4 MRE's Water Bottles Blankets Machete Tire Plug Kit

Those are Pricol's. Now I have EV2's all around. My pricol pyro was on the fritz so I sold the other 4 and bought all new EV2's in 2012. I know they aren't level in the pic, it was taken just after sliding them in before rotating them

Yes, just a small hole. The piece you cut a hole in is replaceable in about 2 minutes if you ever decide to sell the truck without gauges. I tow, on rare occasion, with my dad's 06. He has a 2 pillar mount, and the 3 on the dash is by far a better setup for monitoring the gauges and the road. I have also had the 3 over the mirror, and 2 on the column. Nothing is as easy to read as the dash mount. You can see here the piece that is visible is removed while I get the wiring ready. When I switched from Pricol to ISSPRO 2 years ago I move the pyro to the left dash pod and oil pressure to the a-pillar. It makes for a better cross scan.

Yep. I ran 2 on the pillar for a while and wanted my grab handle back so I switched to a single pillar gauge and the 3 on the dash. The OEM single pillar mount gave me back about 1" of visibility.