AH64ID

First I have heard of that tire brand. Made in China? Not many LRE options on a 15" wheel so that is nice. Do you know if your wheels/stems are rated for 80 psi? I only have 1/6 that is rated for 80, so I would have to buy almost all new rims to take advantage of the LRE. If I'm going to buy new rims I am switching to 16's and a LT tire to get away from the ST designation and 65mph limit.

Well I added a new feature to my pellet stove today... I can now start a fire with my iPad or the wife's iPhone!! The thermostat that came with the stove was a wireless remote that was not programmable and often wouldn't have the transmit strength to start the stove (generally at night) even with new batteries. It was due for a change. Recently I bought one of the Honeywell WiFi thermostats for the main furnace and really like the remote app, which means I want to be able to control the pellet stove from my iPad too!! Lowe's recently dropped the price on the 6000 Series WiFi thermostat, so I picked one up today.. along with 50' of 18/5 and a 24VAC transformer. With some help from the wife I routed the thermostat wire from the stove to the wall where the main thermostat is located. I then installed the 24VAC transformer near the 110V plug for the stove (on a switch so I can turn it off in the summer), and finally hooked up the thermostat. I now have a 7-day programmable thermostat that will read the same temp as the main furnace, and I can monitor/control it from anywhere with a cell or WiFi signal. I am pretty excited about it being programmable because I can program it to warm up the house before the propane furnace program, which should save a bit on propane and keep us warm. Since I had to go into the crawl space I looked at what it would take for a OAK in the crawlspace.. it will not be a difficult task and I will tackle it sometime.

That is a big 4 cyl! Sounds like a great truck.

The pumps can cavitate with too much suction pressure and make air bubbles.

Congrats!! What transmission do they put in those? What are the ratings? DPF? DEF? EGR? LMNOP? I-6 I presume?

On the same token, unless it's super cold, you only want to close most the crawl space vents so that it still circulates some air. Adding a fresh air kit will be a summer project, and I think the crawlspace is a great idea but either crawlspace or external will be equally easy to install.

My crawl space is also vented, but I was told not to pull from there. I am not sure why???

I want to do this to my pellet stove.

Even thou they are rated the same I wouldn't consider the LRD's. The tire store technically can't install them, thou they generally will because they carry the same rating. The D's will run hotter and be less stable for the same load, neither of which are good when hauling/towing. There is a reg, NTSB??, that keeps 17's at 3195lbs or I would think the LRE's would be higher.. some company do rate their 285's higher, but fewer than used to.

That's a weird issue for sure. My first guess is that the fuel level is somehow blocking the vent in the tank and it creating a vacuum which reduces flow.

Pretty cool!! How many miles/hours were on the oil before it sat? If the oil was new when it sat it was good to leave it, if it had more than a few minutes on it I would have changed it.. but that's just me. Oil starts to break down as soon as it gets some run time, and 18 months of sitting is worth changing IMHO. ATF is BAD, no if's and's or but's about it.. do NOT put modern ATF in fuel, its designed specifically not to burn. Cat does have some great fuel filters, but the tightest rating they have is 4um with a standard that calls for 3um. 2um is an old standard that is no longer used. The Donaldson crosses are often rated slightly better, but nonetheless Cat final filters are great. Cat f/w sep's also have a lower water separation rating than other filters, which is odd considering their great final filtration ratings.

No...

There are certainly advantages to both. I rather enjoy gathering and CSS wood, but without being home all day it's hard to keep a fire going and that means a cold house our more propane. Firewood is still cheaper, as long as you don't put a dollar amount on your time. Generally I see people with 9-5 jobs who don't put a dollar value on their time, and the folks who are self employed putting a dollar value on their time. Without buying a trailer, or a bigger chainsaw, I would be approx $0.25/100K BTU's to gather wood.... so yep it's certainly lower on out of pocket expenses. When the shop gets built it will have a wood stove in it, best of both worlds!!

I joined the local coop so hopefully it will help out. I am on their winter program, which is a fixed $2.19/gal but I am hoping that the 800 gallons I got 2 weeks ago will make it until August. It should, but it's a new house to me.

1.40ish is good, it never got that cheap here last summer. The low, non-initial fill, price was right around $2.00 from what I recall.

I have to admire you guys with wood stoves, up until recently I thought it was the way to go... but now I am sold on pellet stoves. They burn wood, but start and operate with a thermostat :-) Get up, turn up the thermostat, start coffee, shower, enjoy fire and head to work!! I stacked 2 tons of pellets in the garage and it has the BTU content of 2.2 chords of pine, and the volume of less than 1 chord. With the efficiency of ~85% it should do quite nicely.

Old thread, but it's propane season again. I just bought a home that is on propane. I put a 1000 gallon tank in, with the hopes I only have to fill in the summer when prices are lower. I just filled it for $1.99/gal two weeks ago. The home also has a pellet stove, so I am planning to use that for most of my heating needs. With pellets at $3.98/bag and Propane at $1.99/gal my 100K breakdown is pellets $1.19/100K BTU's propane $2.19/100K BTU's. Once I throw effeciancy's into the mix I am pellet stove $1.39/100K BTU's output propane $2.73/100K BTU's output I am also lucky in that my pellet stove is in a room with a vaulted ceiling and the main furnace return is in the peak of the ceiling. Last night I messed with a thermometer and came up with the following. Return Air Temp 82° Discharge Temp in Master Bedroom (longest total run) 68° Master Ambient Temp 62° So just the fan operating is going to slowly warm the home, or at least maintain temps in the bedrooms. The kids are sleeping so much better in 55-60° rooms, and still have a warm place to eat breakfast and get ready for school. I will see what happens when the temps dip lower than the 20's.

I only add it when the winterization of the fuel I am buying is in question. Nothing in my tank now, and probably not for the rest of winter. I generally only feel the need to add it in October and November, or if I expect to change climates to a much colder area (sub -15°) within one tank.

No, you add a set amount of weight and call it good. No spin balancing required.

Weight is weight, get a scale and fill a cup until you hit the required ounces. It should be the same weight as the charts show, I think I have about 5oz per tire on my 19.5's.

I don't know why it wouldn't work. Personally I would go with the copper coated ones. I doubt they ever fall and hit the wheel, as you slow gravity and decreasing centrifugal force should let them ride the outside of the tire to the bottom. They may be noisy at slow speed thou.

425 vs 625 depends compleatly on power goals. 425s work for most people.

I didn't think the ARPs stretched enough to warrant a "set". ARP told me that a hot retorque wasn't even required.

I have ran the Centramatics and counteract balance beads. The Centramatics are great because they last for more than one set of tire, or with summer and winter tires. The reason I don't use Centramatics anymore is because Les Schwab considers them a wheel spacer and they will not install wheel spacers. That is when I switched to counteract balance beads and they work great, I have zero balance issues with my 19.5's and many people have to have the rebalanced several times. I do run the Centramatics on my travel trailer but I cannot tell you the difference they have made because I don't ride in it, but it does "feel" better and stuff inside moves less. My dad has dyna beads in his Nitto's, but I have another friend who had bad luck with dyna beads. The tire shop told him that the ridges on the inside of his tires did not allow for proper rotation of the beads while driving. He runs the same Nitro as my dad, but in a smaller size.

W&F, Inwasnt ignoring you... I kissed the updates to this thread because my email and this forum don't see eye to eye. Incan go months without and update reminder, then they start working again for an unknown period of time. Anyhow... The 700R4 was the stock Trans on many of the 6.2 1/2 tons and from what I saw, not as much as you, it didn't like the torque. The 10 bolt rear ends also seemed to get the Alabama treatment to their teeth more often than they should have. It was a great platform, and yes did great on mileage but needed slightly stronger running gear, IMHO. Several trannies can be expected, but transfer cases? Do you see much of a difference only running 91 ethanol free? While I don't like the ethanol I have seen zero gains running it on anything by my carbed small engines. I logged several tanks and all I got was an increase in cost per mile. I'd like to see a mid size SUV with a diesel and 3 rows, maybe a diesel pilot. Since we just moved, this week and am house/land poor for a while, I am a ways off from getting the wife a different rig... Maybe a diesel pilot will come out between now and then. My truck has averaged 29.3 cpm this year (20.2-42.4), but I offset that with a DD car that averages 11.2 cpm so far this year... Just filled up for 2.40, so cpm will be dropping.