AH64ID

If you are sure about the model number then you have the 2 way fridge with the multi-unit display panel. Sounds to me like you have another LARGE DC draw, a loose connection, or bad batteries.

To run the fridge off of AC power with a DC-AC inverter takes 23A DC on my fridge, my truck only puts a peak of about 15A into the batteries. I am setup to do it, and still don't know the long term effect on the batteries over a 6-8 hour day. I did it because the inverter was already installed, so it was easy to add the option. I am not sure I would go out of my way to add 12V DC power to a 2-way fridge.

Main heater, as in heat element in the fridge? I misread your post if that is the case. I still doubt it's that high. I draw 23A of inverter power, which is less efficient. EDIT: I just found the specs, it's a 16A DC heater element. Also, the OP noted 9162, which is a 2 way fridge. The 9163 is the 3-way version. The ignition draws .50A, the heater draws .11-.17A, and the interior light draws .6A. The heater is not the issue, unless it is shorted. So here is a question. OP, was it in AUTO, LP, AC, or DC mode? If it was in AUTO and you ran out of propane, or it failed to light the fridge will switch to DC.

I know on my truck every 1K feet make a difference in smoke and EGT's. My truck runs very cool where I live at 2700', but it runs cooler at sea level for the same ambient temp. So if 100°F is good for 5K feet of change, what does 50°F increase do at 2K feet? My guess is that you are pushing a little oil out of the turbo seal, and under normal exhaust braking you won't notice it but on a braking session that long it's showing up. I highly doubt it's injectors they are supposed to be firing 0, zip, zilch fuel while exhaust braking with a warm engine.

Michael, have you measured your furnace draw at 40A? That seems really high, mine is less than 20% of that.

What voltage where your batteries at? They need a recharge at 12.2V, if you are at 10.5V you could have damaged your batteries. Batteries are dead at or below 11.6V, 10.5V is just bad. I would verify the battery state of charge and battery acid level, it could be low and give you a shorter life. I would also verify your charger is working properly. I am going to assume you have G24 batteries, for a max of 170 AH. 2A draw, as Michael pointed out, will give you about 85 hours until DEAD, or 42.5 hours until the recommended 50% recharge state. There are other amp draws, with our fridge on we have a residual draw of about 1.2A fridge not cooling and closer to 1.5A fridge cooling (non-pilot version). The furnace draws 6.5-7A, same as the water pump. If your batteries died that quickly I wonder if the fridge was truly in LP mode, sounds more like DC mode. In order to drain your batteries in 24 hours you would need an average amp draw of ~7A, that's a lot. The most I have ever seen is ~17A with furnace, lights, and water pump on. I do have LED's, so the amp draw for them is lower.

At least on my truck there is a noticeable difference in smoke from sea level to 5,000 feet, as there is also an increase in hot weather. Remember the old 3% hp loss per 1K feet elevation change based on oxygen content on NA motors?? Well there is going to be some effect on turbo motors at low boost, but minimal loss at high boost. So if the oxygen content from 0° to 100° is equivalent to 5,000 feet that's about 14.2% reduction in hp on a NA motor, or a low boost forced induction motor. Is your mpg fooler set on a fixed number? I notice more smoke, for a given smokey tune, as the IAT's increase more so than ambient.

Not too bad, funny that the open trailer is heavier empty than the 6x12 enclosed my folks just bought that is also a 7K GVW.

You should be fine, just make sure the trailer brakes work and the controller is properly setup before getting up to speed.

What do you figure she weighed? Those trailer tires don't look very happy :-) Exhaust brakes are the best! We where just over 19K combined coming home from camping on Memorial Day, and had some steep stuff coming out of the mountains, barely used the truck brakes. I discovered I can fit just over 1/3 of a chord under my atv rack in the bed of the truck... Thou with wood and ATVs the truck weighed 11,000 even with me in it and 1/3 tank of fuel, no one else.

Do you have 3.55's or 4.10's? When do VP's start to defuel?

The 2007 5.4 made 310hp, vs your 245. You had him on torque, as noticed at lower gears but I cannot say I am surprised he beat you. 26% more hp at 1/2 the weight. I thought burnouts on street tires produced less traction?

I use USAA for all 3 rigs and the camper. It's $139/mo. All 4 rigs have full coverage, $0 comprehensive, and $250 collision. 2005 Ram 3500 $285.38/6 months 2003 Toyota 4Rummer $228.32/6 months 2002 VW Jetta Wagon $164.30/ 6 months 2011 Creekside 26BKS TT $155.48 6/ months. My only complaint is that I cannot "store" the TT when it's not is use, otherwise I think the prices are pretty good.

Is salt a Riggins thing? I was pretty sure ITD didn't use salt, at least I have never seen it. All I have ever seen ITD use is liquid de-icer, they even talk about why they use de-icer vs salt on their website.

Holy RUST Batman!! Are you replacing parts on both sides?

Most of my info was posted for future searching of the thread. You will like the S06.

Looking good. I used both the potentiometer and attribute programmer to get my lights where I wanted them, thou I tried with the potentiometer first as the attribute programmer wasn't out at the time.

Nothing is "wrong", that's just the power level it is limited to for any decent towing with the stock turbo to 40-70hp over stock depending on weight and elevation. You will like the S06, and it's certainly not a worse choice... Just doesn't give you any benefit for the additional cost for towing. I ran the Jr for many years and was always pleased with it, now I run a S06 because I made a custom tune with UDC and wanted to adjust the rail pressure map. I don't run any more power than I had with the Jr, in fact a few hp less. I often find, across the board, that recommendations are made against the Jr by people that really have no knowledge of the Jr and what it does. Like I mentioned the bottom 3 SW's are the same on both, and that's about all the stock turbo can cool when hooked to a trailer... But many recommendations say S06 when it's not needed. Timing levels and torque levels on the S06 are designed around big mods, and heavy fueling. The Jr is setup for fine tuning smoke, economy, and towing.

Based on what you are describing the Jr will do everything you need. You appear to have a stock turbo, so you will be limited to SW2 on a Jr for towing. That's the same as SW3 on a S06. The only real reason I would recommend the S06 over a SJR for you is if you ever wanted to run UDC custom tuning, the S06 allows adjustment of the rail pressure map where the SJR does not. It's not that the S06 won't do well, but for what you are talking about using it for you will gain nothing.. in fact I think the TQ Management levels of the Jr are much better for those who do any towing. SJR vs S06 SW1 = SW1 SW2 = SW3 SW3 = SW5

My best tank was also in cold weather, sub freezing for most of it. The kicker was the 1000' drop over 300 miles and the 10-15mph tail wind. I didn't say you can't get good mileage in cold, you just get better in warm air under identical conditions otherwise.

Yeah that's a bit warm.

Sounds like a nice weekend. We hit the Hot Springs at Hot Springs campground back in Feb. Did you go for a dip?

Warmer air is two fold, but mainly the resistance is lower and the fluids are always warm. It goes back to winter temps kill winter mileage, not winter fuel. Many people refuse to believe it, but it's true. It simply takes less hp to drive at speed in summer than winter, the a/c does hurt but not as much as the warm air gains. My car mileage usually peaks in April, warm enough to be very efficient and minimal warm-up and not using the a/c often. Once it get really hot I lose about 1 mpg over April, but still 1-2 better than winter. I might look into the files and see if I can find out much timing is even changed by IAT on a CR.

Yup, 2005.5. The G56 appeared as the plastic intercooler disappeared, there where a few rare trucks with both.

I found that with my camper any amount of height away from level, up or down, increased the tongue weight. I would assume that to the true on pin weight as well.