AH64ID

Soot particles are sub-micron in size, and the best media filter is 2um absolute (centrifuges are different). Modern oil is designed for modern engines that put more soot into the oil that older engines, the oil keeps the soot from agglomerating and increasing in size. Since the soot doesn't agglomerate it doesn't get filtered very well and stays in the oil. With a good filter the soot wouldn't settle, it would be filtered out. There are 2 reasons that modern diesel oil is blacker than it ever used to be. Engine/emissions design and oil design.

It is definitely the oil doing it's job.. but I almost think modern oil does it's job too well. Keeping it suspended like it does makes it nearly impossible to filter. I'd rather the oil didn't do it's job quite as good as suspending soot and let the filter do it's job.

So the seat of the pants meter didn't let you know you were still making power? Did the dealership charge you for the troubleshooting for a non-existent problem? I have had a pyro fail, and it's obvious when it's working properly and when it's not.

I have Amsoil ATF in mine.

Yes they do, but not having them pressed in saves some $$ on the kit.

I have never understood dual stacks with a single turbine down-pipe... just sayin...I like the mitre cut ones as well, and if it weren't for the loss of bed space I'd run one.

I got the studs pressed into the hub today (took 10 ton's to fully seat them). I will probably seat the bearing races Wed night in preparation for the install starting Friday.

He must have thought you have an auto, as manuals do not have OEM temp senders.

It is possible it's an injector, but the ECM also varies crank timing based on IAT and if your MAP sensor is reading wrong (which it sounds like it is) then your crank timing will be off and it may not want to start.. as you are seeing. So if you are seeing that kind of error for IAT on the scan gauge I would replace the MAP sensor first.

I appreciate it, especially since you just did it recently.

Thanks. I have to do some looking this week. I just looked and realized that you can't just replace the tie-rod end on the passenger size, or the pitman arm joint....

Part of the reason I bought the parts locally and not online was that the local diesel ship (Thanks Big Twin Diesel) is letting me use the proper, AAM specific, ball joint press. Yes, and yes (well as soon as UPS shows up on Tuesday with the spanner socket) I am going to let the local driveline shop do this. Yep, Yep, Yep, Yep, and YEP... I don't have that lined out, but I have 4 days and the ability to phone several people if the need arises. Luckily the roads don't get salted here, so that should be a big help.

I am probably going to put new tie-rod ends on next weekend. I don't have much/any play, but will be doing all the other work and might as well.. My OEM's have been good so far, 86K, so I am not sure what to go with besides OEM.

All my parts are here!!!I am going to paint the flange's black from the Yukon kit, and have a few tools/pieces in the mail, but everything should be a go for next weekend.As for mudflaps, I like the quality of my duraflaps.

Interesting, must have been an MY05 change. What brand are you running now?

The tie rod ends on my 05 and dad's 06 have zerks.

Good info!!Something people might not realize is that a diesel runs on a variable AF ratio, so it may be 100:1 at idle (or lower) and about 18:1 is ideal for WOT. Any lower than 18:1 and you start to haze and by 14:1 you would be VERY black and hot in most motors. I know everyone references boost, but it's not boost that makes the difference it's airflow. Boost is a measure of the restriction. It's possible to have lower boost and more airflow with cam/turbo/intake modifications. I have said it before, but I will say it again. I run +100 hp over stock, on less boost, more airflow, and lower EGT's. The EGT's are related mostly to timing, but when I did the turbo swap I dropped EGT's and about 6 psi of boost for the same power. Not point's of contention, just clarification. As always ISX, great info and thank you for taking the time to type it up.

So I saw the 2nd gen thread and wanted to play... What's the 3rd gen crowd doing for maintenance/mods this springs?Personally I am doing the following next weekend. Yukon Free Spin HubsDynatrac Ball JointsBilstein ShocksBilstein Steering StabilizerMaxx Links Sway Bar end linksDR Pro Fab Steering StabilizerNew front axle u-joints, AAM most likely. My shocks are starting to show signs of wear and my BJ's are still "within OEM spec" but I want to get this stuff done before I have to and it costs me down time from family fun. At 86K miles my OEM sealed bearings seem to be fine, but I am not taking any chances. I may also get a Max Brake trailer brake controller this spring, but I am going to try and solve my braking issue with the new TT with a brake adjustment first.

There are also 2 on the steering of a 4wd, no clue on the steering for a 2wd.

You said it was 30° out, but was the truck plugged in?The IAT reading on a scan gauge comes from the MAP sensor, not the IAT sensor near the air filter.

The new Fords are common rail, so no HPOP. I would drain it, add diesel and some lubricity additive (if it still has a DPF then I wouldn't use 2-stroke). And see what happens. I would prime it (assuming it's self priming like other HPCR's) a few times (bump start method) and go from there. I would also look for further advice from a Ford site... just not too many here are willing to be seen in one.

It's the sound you hear from the trans when your stopped and in N, clutch pedal out. Since you have an OFE I know you get it, it's normal on all trucks with HD clutches. Some guys get it worse than others, and some get it on the stock clutch. At the recommendation of one of the well known NV-5600 shops I add 2 more qts to my trans last summer, and it made the rollover noise worse, I think I am going to drain 1 of them back out. Here is the official Chrysler release on it. http://www.southbendclutch.com/images/chrysler%20notice.jpg - - - Updated - - - And don't forget it also absorbs the torsional spike from combustion, without one the crank would snap.

The 6.7's use a viscous damper. The 07.5-11's use the QSB 480 damper, which is the marine 5.9L rated at 480hp at 3400 rpms (plenty of dampening for me), the 11.5-12's use a different damper, and the rumor is the 13's will use yet another one. I don't beleive the 6.7 damper will fit any non-HPCR motor, only 03+ from what I understand. The 6.7 I am running was a little over 1/2 the FD, the HO damper is as much as the FD.

My 6.7 viscous damper made my engine much quieter and smoother.. I still hear gear rollover, but that's about it.

No, the 6.7 damper is not compatible.