AH64ID

About perfect! Good oil flow to all the components, but not pumping fuel into cold cylinders for too long.

30 psi with teeny lines is not the same flow as 30 psi with huge lines, as far as potential flow. If the pump places more restriction than the lines then its the same flow. The OEM LP on my truck starts to internally bypass at around 10 psi. By the time it gets to my pressure sender it's down to about 8 psi max. I can see the internal bypass spring working by the bouncing of the pressure ± 0.5 psi under light load. As my demand goes up, passing/towing, the pressure steadies as the bypass is below the cracking pressure. If I ease into full power, such as going from the flats to a 6% grade while towing, the pressure drop isn't huge; however, if I just slam it from cruise to WOT I can get a 2-3 psi drop over my towing WOT pressure. That tells me that the rate of demand for fuel has a large effect on pressure, but maybe not flow. 50 GPH thru a 1/2 hose will be lower pressure than thru a 3/8" hose, so I still don't see how people see increased pressure with a big line kit, unless the OEM lines are blocking flow. If the pressure goes up with the same pump and larger lines I would say the original lines were the restriction.

Could it be from the fact that the pumps are constant volume (generally), and the use isn't?

Here is the 2005. I would have uploaded a pic of the 04, but the FSM isn't as clear with photo's. Reading the description the battery tray one works the same as the 05+, just actuated by a cable.

You calculated fuel being burned, but there is a LOT of fuel being returned. That return fuel is needed for cooling and lubricating parts. Doesn't a VP44 need 14 psi for proper lubrication? So a bigger pump is needed to keep up with 14 psi and the flow. A 480hp QSB 5.9 burns just under 26 gal/hr at rated rpm, but it also returns that much. Something else to consider is that some of the FASS's and some of the AD's (not Raptor/HPFP/DDRP) have a return line from the pump. So they are moving a lot of fuel thru the suction line, and the suction line can be the restriction. Generally the fuel lines are oversized, but the oversized lines also allow for a smaller pressure drop with a rapid power change, like you see on a pickup (racing, passing, etc). Where a bigger motor generally doesn't have the rapid fuel flow changes based on the application.

The coolant is HOAT from the factory, which is Zerex G-05. G-05 is known to not play well with others, so I would stick with that. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1301-Coolant-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight= As for the warm-up time. The Cummins is a cold blooded SOB, and idling produces little to no heat. Cold idling is about the worst thing you can do for a diesel engine (other than excessive cylinder heat). Cummins warns against idling more than 10 minutes on a warm engine, and no more than 3-5 on a cold one. The best thing you can do is plug it in with a timer, start it, let it run for about 30 seconds or a little more and drive it slowly.

Since the 2nd gen setup took some manipulating of the intake pipes I would start there looking for a misplaced boot, etc. As for the exhaust leak, did the centering pin get put back in the hole when the exhaust was moved for the 2nd gen swap? Diesel exhaust leaks are generally silent, but at the exhaust pressures the stock turbo creates I would say a whistle is possible. I would also check the filter tubing, as that can make more whistle too.

I thought the under battery one was the same as the intake horn one, just a different location based on trans??All I know for sure is that the APPS is gone by 05, and all I have is a TPS located in the pedal itself.

I think a lot of the line requirements are based on the pump and the fittings. The pumps are rated at 0 psi, so they need all the help they can get. The quantity of fuel is plenty, but they seem to loose pressure faster than they should. Pressure is important for a VP, not so much for a CP3. I also think the suction line is undersized in many applications.

I have both

What psi is the low pressure light set for?Low pressure lights are a waste of $$, they don't really tell you anything other than above or below the set point.

If you are stock thru +200 then 3/8" is plenty. 250ish over stock then go 1/2", 350+ over stock go 3/4" to pump, then 1/2" to VP.

Yes to the 3 piece or the plastic IC?

Are you sure it's a 3-piece manifold? Those are 2nd gen style, which means it has custom piping and that could be the source of the leak. Have him check and see if his intercooler has plastic end caps.

It's a pretty popular design, but I think it's overrated and overpriced. The GDP unit is much cheaper and flows nearly the same air, at least close enough that the difference is not worth the cost. There have also been some reports of the CFM's exploding, it's in abusive situations but the GDP is metal and won't do that. I would look at the GDP.

Smarty UDC works just like EFI Live, just fewer tables. I would download the demo.

Last I heard it was on hold until they finished some other projects. Have you heard of Smarty UDC?

Maybe it's the intake location on the 3rd gen, but mine didn't really get much louder when it was removed. My Garrett doesn't even have an option for one, and it really only sings between 7-15 psi, but still not so loud it's annoying towing.

It will provide you with 3 things... whistle, whistle, and whistle.

They allow a greater volume of fuel thru before the pressure drop's below the pop pressure. Even thou the plunger has the same volume I doubt all the fuel is used in each injection event, the larger injectors allow more fuel. Then when you run out of plunger volume you have to modify the pump.As each discussion comes up about P-pump operation the CR's just seem that much easier :-)

Yup, it's great wood!!!

How are you liking them?Did you have to balance the wheels/tires too?

It's normal to be hypersensitive after changing something out.

I used to be a HUGE Optima fan, but really there haven't been too many good reports out of them in the last 5-6 years. It seems they probably cut some corners somewhere along the lines and decided to ride on a reputation and not quality.. anyhow I hope they fix it some time. The other thing is they don't really fit out trucks, why not make more than 2 sizes, they charge enough they can make more than a 1 size fits all!! They also only have 750 CCA's, like stock. I am currently running a pair of Sears Platinum's in my truck. They are re-badged Odyssey's made for Sears. They offer 930 CCA's vs the OEM 750, and believe me you feel it. The truck cranks at 0° like it use to at 30°. I use the Sears gold in my wife's 4Runner and it works fine, but it never really gets tested being a small gas engine, and garaged. I have some non sealed Costco RV batteries in the TT and they don't last nearly as long as the pair of 6V did, but they also have 75% of the capacity (6V's don't fit my current setup, so a retro fit is coming next year). They hold the voltage fine (checked yesterday sitting at 12.5 after a month of 0° or colder at night and they haven't had a good charge since October, just a 10w solar panel for a week about a month ago). So in the end most batteries are pretty good, and will work. I put better batteries in the truck since I am often a LONG way from civilization with the family and it's good piece of mind.

Where we hunt we have been cutting wood from the 2000 fire, and some of it is still BLACK!!