AH64ID

John, Did you run the HE351 as a single? I am curious how much your cruise boost changed.

5' boxes are some super short box 1/2 tons right? My understanding as been a slider is needed (recommended, warranted, etc) by and 2500/3500 short box, and not needed for a long box. I have understood that short box trucks in the 2500 and 3500 class are ±6.25' and long box are ±8'. I have never noticed a 5' box on anything but a super crew, crew max, etc 1/2 ton.

There is a BIG difference in the 480 and 472. I see people quite often oversize their primary because it sounds cool. But being realistic about your power goals and matching the turbo to the needs is far more efficient than buying the "cool" turbo and having a poor setup.

That is a beautiful drive!I keep my comprehensive deductible at $0, so I get free windshields, and I think up to 3 a year.

I agree with tighter spots and corners, but I am talking about hairpin single track switchbacks where you have to stay on the narrow road. The bumper pulls almost pull the trailer axles thru the inside of the corner, and if the trailer pivot point was 6' foreword the axles would fully cut it off.

Not sure who made the bags, but my firestones only require 5 psi in them at a minimum. The ride will be much better at 5psi empty than 20 psi. When I have 20 psi in my bags and they are empty my kidney's get angry after a few miles. I ran a 2" level for several years and really liked the look, but as we started using the truck with more tongue and bed weight I didn't like how much air they took to keep level when loaded so I dropped to a 1" and while the 2" was sharp looking the 1" is pretty functional for a TT with 1300lbs of tongue weight and firewood/4wheeler in the bed.

I would love to get a 5th wheel (really would prefer a goose, but not very many for RV's) but there are 2 big issues. The first is I like to take a few toys and a toy hauler with decent storage, build quality, and room for the whole family is :spend:. Second one of the few times a bumper pull has an advantage is on switchbacks. There are many switchbacks I hit that a trailer pivoting in the middle of the bed would not make, but dragging the trailer from the bumper plus an extended hitch lets it turn where it should. The latter reason is why my dad got a 16' stock bumper pull for our hunting horse/gear trailer. We weren't sure that a goose in the same size would make it on some of the roads we drive.

2% isn't bad by OEM standards, but I like mine closer. At 200K you only have 196K. While it's not enough to mean anything I personally don't like it. Yeah, it's nice to be able to adjust the SGII for mpg accuracy. That's similar to my VW. I think it's a design feature.

From what I have noticed they are not all that accurate, unless they are the ones marked as a speedo calibration area. My OEM tire setting with OEM tires was off by 4-5% (don't recall exactly), but since I have put the Smarty on its about .5-1% slow (how I like it so I am not racking up more miles than actually driven). Something else I have noticed on all 3 of my vehicles is the indicated speed is not calibrated to match the odometer. My VW Jetta is the worst where it reads about 2 mph fast at 55, but the odometer is about 1% slow. The Dodge and Toyota are differenent from speedo to odo as well. Basically the odometer is what should be calibrated, and not the speedo. I, like CSM, have found my Garmin to be quite accurate but when I am trying to adjust my speedometer I don't like doing it on anything but interstate travel out of the mountains. My speedo and GPS will match until I start hitting winding roads thru mountains areas (I think you know what those look like, I presume you have driven on 55 ). I have also found my hiking GPS to be sligthly more accurate and consistant than my vehicle GPS when they are both mounted side-by-side on the dash. Several years ago on a previous set of tires I had the speedo pretty well dialed in, after 1000 miles on the GPS the truck said 997. Two last things to consider. Tire pressure plays a big role. If I keep my tires at 80 psi with the truck empty the speedo is off, but it's accurate when loaded up to 5K plus on the rear axle. When I drop the empty pressure to 45-50 it's back to being accurate. The speedo may be 1% off at 30 and 1.5% off at 80. I know that is really splitting hairs, but hey what the heck. So, is a Smarty in your future to adjust the speedo?

The ambient temp sensor should just be used for the display. The ECM probably uses a different sensor for ambient, at least it does on a 3rd gen.

Converting a 5th wheel to a gooseneck is common, but not recommended by any of the RV manufacturers that I am aware of. The gooseneck is a more rugged design, and if you look at the applications the only reason an RV is a 5th wheel is the ease of hookup for RVers. The gooseneck outperforms in all modes except hookup.

Yes, that is a common cheap mod.

It's possible, but how much are you going to weaken the cast?

You should have a 34 gallon tank.

I have no issues getting 30-32 gallons in my 35 gallon tank without a vent mod. How low does your tank read when you put 26 gallons into it?

Is the connector large? But it does sound like the block heater.

Here is a write-up I did on it. Total capacity is 7.4 gallons, so if your flushing you need 3.7 gallons of G05. If your just draining and filling you only need about 2-2.5 gallons of G05. I can't think of any sender that would be by the motor mount. By right side I am assuming passenger side? http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/1301-Coolant-Flush-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight=

Dave Smith in Coeur D'lane, Id; Larry Miller in Boise, Id; and Peterson in Nampa, Id are the main three that ask for used 5.9's several times a year if you want to ditch it. If I could keep my drivetrain with a 4th gen body I would be sold! - - - Updated - - - Haha.. just opened my mail from yesterday and there was another one. This is the most bland looking one yet, and I am sure it's 80% marketing but I have never had this happen with any other vehicle I have owned.

Absolutely, it's amazing how much people prefer a 3rd gen with a 5.9 over a 6.7. I still get several letters a year from multiple dealerships wanting my 05 5.9. All good points; however, the soot problems may have been corrected with software but some of those trucks had soot issues from latent soot long after the software upgrades. When I was helping some friends shop for trucks a couple years back if the the 6.7 was a 07.5 or early 08 they all had been thru multiple turbo's and even recent ones long after the software upgrades. The 68RFE is a great addition (and actually has 2 extra gears), and the OEM exhaust brake is also a great tool for towing. Yes the VP44 has issues, but it's hard to blame Cummins when a large percentage of it's issues are based on a fuel standard that changed 5 years after the VP44 was phased out. For 500ppm fuel and 1998 technology the VP is a good pump. The '13 6.7 should be the best 6.7 yet, better mileage, torque, and if you get a 3500 you get the new suspension/frame/auto. Based on recent changes from the tuners a deleted '13 may not happen for a long time. Based on the 6.7's and 5.9's I have been around in my power range I will keep my 5.9, but the bone stock 6.7 is a great setup in a 4th gen and for the reasons you mentioned a stock 6.7 auto is much better than a stock 5.9 auto.

You didn't say it was making 22K psi at idle, yeah that is certainly an FCA fault.Glad to hear it's fixed.

The 2007.5's were the worst of the 6.7's, the original software didn't like daily driving and it caused issues on those trucks for years. The software has since been fixed, but there are enough instances of lasting faults/damage that a used 07.5 is probably not worth it. People that used it with a heavy load generally didn't have any issues.

That's a big cam!Yeah I love my Garrett, great turbo. Send me a PM.

2013 2500's are starting to go from rare to scarce, but the 3500's are still just rumored :-)Unlike the last 15 years there are BIG differences in a 2500 and 3500, so additional research is a good idea so you know what you are getting. Personally I wouldn't be scared of a 6.7 anymore, it's the 07.5's that had issues.

Glad to hear it's up and running!

If it's really being that big of a pain you can always pull into the garage straight and ignore the wheel position. Then take the TRE out of the pitman arm. Turn the wheel full left and full right, and then center it. Now adjust the sleeve to drop the TRE into the pitman arm, then you can fine tune it by driving.