AH64ID

You are correct, the Raptor kit does not come with a pre-filter. I always laugh at the folks with a pre-filter on the dual filtered kits, as the first filter is before the pump...

The OEM filtration improved in 04.5, but the bodies are the same. The tips are different, but that has to do with the pistons. The 6.7 bodies are the improved ones, and the current 5.9 bodies are stronger too.

Any updates?It sounds an awful lot like injectors, the added CCA's of the box are spinning the motor faster and creating more pressure from the CP3 and it fires. Rule out batteries first as they are cheaper thou..With 288K miles on your injectors they WILL fail a bench test, even if it's not the issue. Injectors with 100K miles in perfect working order generally wont pass a bench test, it's just what happens.

I don't know why, or if it will last, but Amazon has the Hellwig rear sway bar for 3rd gen's listed at $121, about 1/2 of what it normally sells for. As of this post there are 12 available. If you have ever considered one, then I would buy it!! This made a HUGE difference in my trucks handling empty and towing, and I should have done it sooner. I had no idea what a positive impact it would make. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001UFXT6Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Big Twin Diesel in Meridian is top notch!!208-888-7297

Interesting, I hadn't heard about the issues. When was pureflow sold?

If you need a DD then great, but if you can get away with a single disk I would. The DD's are NOISY!!!

How are the batteries and/or connections?

Do you have a steering brace?

I would move the pump to under the truck like it has been mentioned. Instead of a nearly useless prefilter strainer I would put a BF1212 before the pump, it will remove water/debris and work great.

That sucks!!Good call not going with a 62/70, you would have HATED that turbo beyond belief with how you drive. The fuel you have would certainly warrant a 58/65, or 62/65/12 but any bigger than that wouldn't work for you. Thou I am not sure spending money on a stock turbo is worth it??? But if it works, I guess it works....The exhaust brake does make it a little more difficult, since most go to a HX40 downpipe. I think the BD Special is out of the question, but the Garrett appears to work with the EB. But in the end, it's all what you can justify for the cost. I had never heard of GOS so I was peeking at their site. The turbo they have listed as a 62/70 is a 62/65 so I have no clue what 62/70 means????When I first looked they didn't have a OEM reman on the site, but it just popped up. About 1/2 price, so if your HX35 has been working then go for it. The fuel you have is too much for the HX35, unless you don't use it :-)They are considerably cheaper on their reman's than others I have seen, I hope that it's just a good deal and not a poor reman.

Interesting, I wonder if that's a 03-04 vs 04.5-07 thing???

From what I have been told it's in the low 90's, but the cam really has a big effect on that. Like with my truck, I increased airflow and decreased boost. What does that mean? Higher VE with the cam, and again higher with the turbo. Boost is just a measure of resistance, lower the resistance and increase VE and flow for the same boost.

What are you using to determine volumetric efficiency?

Good call on ditching the Wix, they are rated at 8um absolute which means they don't meet the min spec published by Dodge of 7um. Wix's comments when I asked why they offer a product that doesn't meet spec was, "do you know how small a micron is?".... WOW, just WOW...The only time I have ever gelled was on B20, it was -4° out on treated fuel. I was running winter fuel at -20° this weekend without issue. Yes, really close to 50:1.. That's a lot of oil for a diesel. I think most guys run about 1oz per gallon, or 128:1.

The OBDII may not report correctly, and thus the fuel rate may not ever be accurate. I know my 05 isn't accurate, and I am not sure on the 03's. It's an OEM programming issue. So if it doesn't work, it may be normal and they probably wont take it back. As for updating I would call their support line.

I ran 2 stroke in my truck for about 8K miles a few years ago. I saw no benefit from it, but it did make my exhaust brake slow to engage. 2 tanks after stopping it's use the EB was back to normal. So I no longer run it, I just use Amsoil ADF in every tank. As for filtration, the stock filter on your 03 was 10um, that caused a lot of injector issues so it was upgraded to 7um. I have talked to Bosch and they want 5um filtration. The only filter, for the OEM canister, that goes to 5um is the Baldwin PF7977, so run it. As for additional filtration I don't think you can beat the GDP MK2+ with a Donaldson P551313, it's rated at 3um. If you talk to some of the CP3 guys, like Todd at T&C, he sees a lot of water/rust issues. I run a Baldwin BF1212 to have 2 f/w seps on the truck. I never drain any water, but want the protection.HPCR's need clean fuel, and lubricated fuel.The FASS is a good system, it's too bad that neither FASS or AD make a setup with dual 1-14" threads thou.

Not on my truck. There was no change to the way the lift pump cycles with my truck with the latest update, on the Jr or S06. When it's very cold it will run for about 30 seconds, but should shut off.

The length of time the LP operates is also based on temperature, and being cold it should run longer. In addition the Jr will update your ECM with the latest Chrysler software, which may have been a change from your previous software. Either way it sounds normal to me.

And you think the CR stuff is complicated....

Like Michael I run the Southbend Con OFE and like it. If you only plan to ever run the 40hp tune then the Con O may be a little smoother. My dad won't ever go above the 40hp tune so he will put the Con O in his 06.

There is a HUGE difference in the clutch holding ability from a NV5600 and a G56. The OP has a G56 so none of the NV5600 data is relevant. The stock G56 clutch barely holds stock power, and with a dumb driver the clutch can be toast in short order. Most of them fail under 75K miles, but some make it to 150K, with driving style and use being VERY important. The G56 clutch generally fails at mid/low rpms under heavy fueling/towing and not at upper rpms. It cannot hold the torque at low rpms. You could run a 40hp tune if you drive smart and be fine for a long time, my dad has been on a 40hp tune on his G56 for 90K miles and is over 105K on his stock clutch, but that is rare. When you replace your clutch look into a single mass flywheel conversion, it's a much better setup. Thou you will hear a little more trans noise when stopped. As far as the tuner the OP is referring to an XRT, it's a H&S tuning product for the 6.7 in his sig.

The 03-04 and 04.5-07 will read different pressures and boost readings as they are setup different in terms of rail pressure maps and turbo/wastegates. I would say your reading correctly.

I have had electrical gauges for years and never had a sender fail. If you get a cheap one maybe, but a good sender will last a long time. I ran Pricol's for several years before switching to ISSPRO about a year ago. Personally I won't run fuel to the cab, and don't want to mess with an isolator. There are too many possible issues with them, and it seems problems are more common with mechanical than electrical.

That happened to my rear drivers window a few years ago, the plug in the door had come off. I have since read of this happening to others, so I would pull the door skin first and check your connection.