AH64ID

Played with a couple of tunes this weekend. Truck is really running great, and tows amazing! I was pulling hills about 50-100° lower than the standard tune, and at a lower load. It seems like the mileage is up a little too, but too early to tell. My pyro is on the fritz and started reading about 100-200° high towing home yesterday, so I'll have to wait for the new one to do more testing. But while it appeared to be working I went WOT in 5th gear, 2200rpms, 15-15.5K GCW, up a 8-9% grade. I ran from 2200-2700 rpms. Boost peaked at 32 (same) and EGT's peaked at 1210 (down about 50°) and the truck felt stronger. I didn't get to see DP/rail pressure but will pay more attention next time. Very happy with UDC so far.

It does not, but I would guess that the fan running would help warmup time. With the thermostat closed you get very little radiant cooling from the air over the block, but the fan takes hp and increases the load.

It should be in the service manual. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=193

Well I think I have the tune ready to load in the truck tomorrow. I made some more changes to the timing map, but nothing you can really see. I didn't play too much with duration, everything is within ±2% of stock. The wastegate is setup for 38psi, which I won't hit right now and it doesn't really matter as I have to reinstall the boost solenoid next week, then adjust the WG down to about 20-22psi and let the solenoid work. I added a little tq management on bottom end (dirt/ice) and took a little out on the top, we shall see what it does. All in all the software is easy to use and works well. I'll let you all know how the tow trip goes. --- Update to the previous post... Here are some shots of stock tables. The axis' are rpm, load %age, and the other is based on the table. PSI for Rail, degrees for timing, miliseconds for duration, psi for wastegate. These are from my 05 stock file (except rail pressure, but it's from a 04.5-07). It's amazing that even thou the stock truck will pull 30-32 psi of boost the WG is set to open at 25 psi. Timing (you can see why they run so HOT, and don't get as good of fuel mileage, and that the timing is based off of emissions). Rail pressure (not very smooth) Duration (nothing fancy, the more pressure you run the shorter the duration) Wastegate

3rd gen a/c takes a lot of hits, but of the 3 rigs I own my 05 has the best a/c. It really works great and will freeze you out on a hot day in no time. The fan does engage on some trucks, not sure of the ECM logic, but I think the auto truck run the fan with the a/c more.

Looks great! It makes me want to tackle some bigger RV mods.

Odd that both the starter and TIPM need a replacement? There was an issue with the 06's, TIPM and a no-crank like you described. A quick fix can be disconnecting the batteries, and that also is an indication it is the TIPM. It's for excessive starter loads, but all they do is reprogram the load limit higher (they had it too low), the starter is rarely bad. Your not seeing any codes, but who knows. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/08-021-06.htm

I am currently beta testing UDC, and working up a tow tune for my Jr. The software is easy to use, and not to complicated. I won't get to try the tune until Friday, but am looking foreword to it. Here is a shot of my timing vs stock timing. --- Update to the previous post...

My dad and I installed sway bars on our trucks this weekend. We both went with Hellwigs, I got the standard bar and he got the big wig. I don't haul/tow all that heavy, but there isn't a straight road around here so I figured it was a good idea, and my dad has a Lance 8' camper and tows a 16' stock trailer behind it. The install was pretty easy, only issue is we couldn't get the end links at a perfect 90° angle because we both have Class-V hitches. The angles aren't bad and are about 85-87°. They made a very noticeable change. My truck empty is much more stable driving around, and with a trailer it's great. I don't have many miles on it yet, but should hit some winding roads with the TT soon. My dad left my house and drove the 500 miles to Seattle thru Oregon with a full bed and the 16' stock trailer at about 5500lbs. He doesn't text or use words like "Awesome", but about an hour into his drive I got a text saying "Awesome" (he was stopped, not texting and driving). I talked to him a little bit later, after the windy section of road thru E Oregon and he was blown away at what the bar did to his truck. It made it amazingly stable and it hugs the road and doesn't wonder at all. So if you are on the fence about one I highly recommend one.

Got this installed on my dad's 06 yesterday. His truck still has the DMF/OEM clutch. It's amazing what it did for the idle, and the DMF shutdown clatter is GONE! We haven't gotten it hot yet, still has ATF in the trans, but have started and shut it down a few times and it sounds like a different truck. We did it now, so that when he goes to a sold flywheel he won't have to worry about it.

White smoke is probably something with the injectors. You can isolate which one by cracking the injection lines one at a time and when the smoke stops there is your injector. It could also be low compression from the mileage.

ROI won't happen, and no the stock power is more than enough, but the ROS is great!!!Ridiculous Oversized Smile

It shouldn't have effected anything else, I'd just forget about it. Sucks they screwed you around so much.

Parts for my dad's 06 are in, swapping it out this weekend.

I still didn't like it, even for being normal. So in went my Smarty Jr on timing only for a few years (EGT's were 1275° max normally), then the mods started....

1200° is your preference, many run similar setups up to 1250-1300° before going down a gear. Have you ever tried 2,200? I know your VP setup is different, but my truck runs cooler longer at 2200 than 2000. If you were to hold higher EGT's you would see your coolant temp rise, the #1 source of heat to the coolant is in the head from the exhaust. 198° is where the second gen thermostat goes full open, a full 9° cooler than a 3rd gen. --- Update to the previous post... All day long, in stock form. Look at the thousands of stock CR's that tow heavy all day without gauges, they don't melt things unless something breaks. The CR has less cylinder heat at 1450° than a VP truck at 1250°. The CR is timed for emissions, this creates lower cylinder temps/pressures and higher exhaust temps/pressures. If I were to run my truck with advanced timing to 1450° while towing I would be buying a new piston or 6...

If it's bone stock then let her rip. Apparently the truck didn't feel the need to unlock or downshift. 3rd gear at 65 would have been ~2650 rpms. I think you will find that 1850 rpms will do pretty good unless you hit some bigger grades. Personally if you plan to leave it stock I wouldn't get gauges, you will be blown away at the EGT's you will see. I bet you were in the 1450° range on those grades, and that scares most people, but is normal on a 06.Now that I am mildly modded I can pull a 10% stretch in 6th at 1,700 at 1210° with about 7,500lbs and a barn door (11' tall TT).. much nicer than those stock 1400°+

That's the part that amazes me, the 26" LCD TV is standard, yet the camper is wired like it's an option. The 120V plug and coax are exposed when they don't need to be. Thou the benefit to the exposed 120V plug is I can plug it into my little 300W inverter and put on a movie without the generator running. The 12V plug is adjacent to the 120V TV outlet.

Did a couple dopey little things for $3.50 yesterday. I put a 90° coax fitting where the cable hooks up for the TV to the AMP. It's much cleaner, but I still don't understand why they can't have the hookup hidden and just the amp switch exposed.... anyways, less obtrusive for sure.I also bought the cheapest can of red rattle can Wally World had and painted a thin coat on one of interior lights. It now puts out a nice red light, which won't effect night vision and shouldn't bother the sleeping kids like a white light does. I started thin, and will see how it works on the next trip, I can always go thicker.

I don't think it's isolated to 3rd gens, Dodge front end's are known for rapid wearing of the components (then again so is any SFA truck with a diesel). The issue is not really a problem for gassers as they don't have the weight to contend with. 185K on a 2nd gen with as many FS road miles as you put on is remarkable, and far far above the norm that I read about. 3rd gens are heavier, but with stock sized tires I don't think they are any worse than 2nd gen's.

I will be replacing my BJ's with dynatrac's, steering stabilizer with a Bilstein, and I am not sure on the tie rod ends yet. I am at 75K, and am hoping I can squeeze another 10K out of the setup.Hub bearings will be replaced with one of the free spin kits, just not sure whose yet.. those better make it to my next tax refund!

jkidd. I really don't want an unmatched set, but a full set of new gauges is not in the cards.. just bought too many other things :-)Think I may do the pyro and wait out the others. At least the pyro is separate from the rest.

I have gotten some decent quotes on a full compliment of ISSPRO's, but its still ouch!!Can't decide.. wouldn't mind the EV2's.. would mind the bill :-)Boost, Pyro, DP, Oil, Fuel...

I would but the gauge isn't ISSPRO's and the company that made it is out of business.

Towing this weekend I noticed that when my EGT's were about 1050° the needle would bounce from 1000-1100° at about a 2Hz rate, and then back to stable at 1050°. It did this 3 or 4 times on 2 grades (also did this once last winter at the 500-600° range). Otherwise it's smooth and operates as it did when new in 2007.I presume the stepper motor is failing? Could it be the thermocouple? Any opinions on if this will effect the reading when it's not bouncing?