AH64ID

What coolant did you end up using?I haven't replaced my hoses yet, not sure when I will.

The Baldwin is 5um, and the Donaldson is 3um. I always recommend an additional f/w sep, but the Baldwin meets OE standards.

Are you sure you don't have a boot or IC leaking? The barking makes me think it's losing it's load rapidly. The Silver 66 is not a good turbo for towing anything.

I have 90% of the original Mopar Severe Duty Filtration kit on my truck. The biggest difference is the filter, the old filter was 25um, and on a 1-14" thread. It was designed as an additional f/w sep, the new one seems to be a f/w sep and final all in one. I haven't been able to find any info on the filter, it's probably made by Fleetguard but they don't make a cross or acknowledge the part number. The add claims 5um at 98%, but I would verify that first. Personally I would build my own kit, add a BF1212 pre-OEM filter and a Donaldson P551313 post OEM filter, you end up with better/staged filtering for about the same cash.

That stuff can get nasty! Here is how I did my PS fluid. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/53-engine-system/119-power-steering-flush

My lie-o-meter varies from 8% to 33% off, so you can't really use them as an indicator. What was the timing set at on SW5? If you are seeing more boost than normal you are driving it harder. I would try SW3 TM2, TQ 1 or 2, RP1, WG Off and see what you get. With advanced timing your boost goes down per hp, and with advanced timing your economy goes up. That is if you can keep your foot out of it. I would pick a setting and drive it normal for a while, it's not uncommon for people to drive harder than they think when enjoying the new power.

The 545RFE is a Chrysler made automatic transmission used behind gas motors in multiple applications. The Allison 1000 is used exclusively by GM as an OEM transmission. The C&C trucks us an Aisin AS68RC.

Does the code recur if you clear it?I will occasionally show the code in the winter with my winter front on, as the fan can't grab enough air to get to the proper speed. The sensor is part of the fan.

That's a lot of DP, and also why I ditched my HE351. I think the Smarty runs more DP than the HS, but that's just what I have heard.

I thought the guys with P-pumped 24V's and 24° of timing don't have the rattle, and thats a LOT of timing, I don't think that the VP trucks have more than that at idle. I can't find it right now, but Michael has a chart that shows the timing vs rpm vs temp. I agree that just adding a static addition isn't the best, but a dynamic addition is good, even on a VP truck, just not too much.

A lot really depends on what truck, it's use, and how it was setup. Most timing has been done for emissions, and even the static timed P7100 was partially for emissions. The VP and CR use dynamic timing, which is for emissions and drive-ability. The dynamic timing allows for better starting, improved economy, and a flat torque curve. But in general I don't think anything would hurt from a little timing, heck I gained up to 55hp/100ft/lbs from 1600-2400 from timing along, and the motor is more responsive, smoother, and more efficient. Timing is good!

Does the 6.7 run less boost than the 5.9 stock? The 04.5-07 5.9 runs up to 32 psi in OEM form.

It still shows absolute pressure, and still stops well short of peak boost (even stock). The OBDII limit is 255 kpa, which is 36.9 psi absolute, or (at sea level) 22.3 psi of boost is the most it will output. This is true for SG or UG, or any OBDII reader. The UG is supposed to take MAP minus IAT pressure for real boost, but it doesn't

I need to see how the lines in my new camper are run, hopefully there is room.

Yeah the 04.5-07 has the poorest piston design of any CTD in a Ram. The wider non-renetrant bowl with a narrower spray angle isn't ideal, but with a little smarts we can keep from making our pistons liquid :-).

Timing is the #1 way to pickup some economy on the 3rd gens. The tone ring or rokkteck mod will give a static advance, but a tuner like the Smarty Jr will give a dynamic advance. Intake/exhaust are not needed, nor will the do much for economy. If he want's to mod them then that's fine, but the OEM filter is the best filter for under 450 rwhp, and you can mod the stock intake to improve it without changing it, and be better off than many/most aftermarket CAI's/ I run my SJR on pretty much the same setting. It's a great tune, but not one I would advise on a stock auto trans, too much power and too easy to damage the stock auto. Something to point out if the OP/truck owner isn't aware of is that the Smarty will decrease the EGT's substantially, but you can't run it up to stock EGT's with a Smarty tune or you will melt something. You need to lower your safe limit. I have never seen too high of EGT with my SJR to be concerned under normal driving, and the only time I have was towing up a 6% grade at 5,000 feet (stock turbo) in OD at 1900 rpms, dropped to 5th and EGT's dropped 250°. I think a Smarty Jr would fit the bill nicely for what he wants, and would personally set it on SW1 TM-Default, TQ -4.

He needs to have the code read, but it's probably something with the EGR. A common EGR "delete" is to just unplug the motor, you get a CEL, no limp mode, and increased economy. But I would still have him get it checked out.

For an oil filter the XE isn't horrible, it's better than the Fleeguard OEM filter. This thread is about oil filters, but a few 3rd gen fuel filter comments have been made, so I'll chime in. Wix does not make or sell a fuel filter for the 03-07 5.9 that meet's OEM specs, and OEM spec's don't meet Bosch specs.. i.e. a Wix fuel filter should NEVER be in a 03-07 5.9.

Mine will hold air indefinitely. I would try re-seating all the hoses.

You have one, it's just blank so you have to edit it.

I do nearly all of my cooking outside. I have a table with a Coleman stock and a propane BBQ. It work's well, I'll get some photos. I am seriously thinking of ditching the 2 burner Coleman for a 3 burner camp chef, now that I have the room.

Not too many mods planned as of yet, thou there will be a few :-)I stared working on my high pressure propane setup last night (puts 2 1" high pressure ports under the awning for cooking/lanterns). On my 18CK I had a couple of valves to select the tank, but the 26BKS came with one of Type 1 ACME connections with a 1" "T" and I think I'll just mod my current high pressure hose for that setup. I plan on adding the Dexter EZ ride's to the suspension, and possibly the Monroe Shock retrofit kit. I had a Class III receiver on my 18CK, and will probably end up with one on this camper too.

I try to hit the frame with Rustoleum at least once a season and at the end, I think it helps.

Yeah looks good hooked up, now I need to paint the rims black to match

Ask and yee shall receive. Cell phone pic for now.