AH64ID

It would be really nice if Ram came out with a double OD 7 Speed. I'd like a .82 and a .62 and 3.90's in the pumpkins!

With gas getting closer to the price of diesel you may be parking the 96 more :-)

So this was going to be my only mod this year, until I read about the 6.7 harmonic damper. Anyhow, I truly think I am about done with power mods at this point, thou I have said that before. I will be playing with the Smarty UDC, and possibly going to a Smarty Sr but nothing crazy. Anyhow.. I purchased a GDP Air Boss and it's awaiting install. It really is a pretty piece of equipment! This mod is supposed to improve airflow thru the intake manifold, which helps spool (not really an issue with a BB charger) and EGT's. I don't have an EGT problem persay, but wouldn't mind a slight reduction when towing at 6K feet plus, and with the new TT being 2-3K lbs heavier I am going to be using more of my power. I have heard several claims of 100-150° EGT reductions from this plenum with grid heater delete. One of the features I like is that Richard (GDP) has an all seasons kit for it, which allows use of either the OEM grid heater or grid heater delete. I plan to run the grid heater Oct-Mar, and deleted the rest of the year. I have been "bypassing" the grid heater on some cold days this winter, and have had zero issues starting even into the teens. I could probably get away without it year-round, but I don't want to risk it. I am hoping by starting this thread today it will motivate me to find the time to do the swap this weekend.

I have the limited access that anyone in the public can have.

Should be a SWEET build! I use 1300° as my max continuous.. I would love it lower, but not sure my wallet would :spend: I only broke 1250° on one trip last year, and this year I will have a Air Boss and grid delete installed...

I think you are all looking at this far too in depth.. His truck is just scared of the dark

Exactly, 2-4rwhp is what I have read. The main reason I removed mine is because the cat was designed with stock soot/EGT levels in mind. With my Smarty I have increased soot and decreased EGT's, so I am not sure the cat would stay as clean that way.

This is what I am referring to, the lighting bolt has nothing to do with the alternator. I'm just trying to make sense of what you said happened, and you are talking about 2 different systems. It's possible the throttle light was from low voltage, but you should have had a battery looking MIL too.

I didn't realize you were here in the Treasure Valley. I don't have my cat, but also have yet to receive an emissions notice :-) Aside from poor performance from excessive back pressure I am not sure you can tell when they fail.

For an alternator yes, but if it was a lightning bolt then no, because that's a throttle issue. If it was an alternator light it will go out as soon as your charging again. Do you recall the code?

Hopefully that does the trick.

Are you still looking at this truck?The bulge is indeed a cat, but it is not monitored at all by the ECM. My ECM isn't even aware that my kitty is napping peacefully in the attic :-)Lots of aftermarket radio options.

That's the stuff, not sure if I want to do it either. I'm going to start by adding the rest of the fluid I have at home, should put me at 8-9 total quarts.

Our last TT didn't have a TV, but we did take the DVD player on occasoin in the event of bad weather. Our new trailer came with a 26" LCD, DVD player, power sub, etc... It's pretty silly to be honest, it has the best picture of any TV we own. We don't normally watch TV when camping, but if the weather sucks then at least we have something to watch. The TV will run off of our little 125w inverter, and the 12V power is right next to the TV's 120V plug, so it's pretty easy.

The lighting bolt is not for the alternator, it's for the Electronic Throttle Control. The Alternator malfunction lamp looks like a battery. Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)This light informs you of a problem with theElectronic Throttle Control system. If a problemis detected, the light will come on while theengine is running. If the light remains lit withthe engine running your vehicle will usually be drivable,however, see your authorized dealer for service as soonas possible. If the light is flashing when the engine isrunning, immediate service is required and you mayexperience reduced performance, an elevated/rough idleor engine stall and your vehicle may require towing. Thelight will come on when the ignition is first turned onand remain on for 15 seconds as a bulb check. If the lightdoes not come on during starting, have the systemchecked by an authorized dealer.

It's a 4 speed, 4th is OD, what you are feeling is indeed the torque converter locking. 1st 2.45:12nd 1.45:13rd 1.00:14th 0.69:1

Most commonly this issue is due to a bad/loose crossover cable. The alternator hooks up directly to the pass battery, but the ECM monitors temp and voltage at the drivers battery. I would check the cable and the temp sensor (under the drivers battery), voltage of 14-15 is normal, my high voltage alarm is at 15.2 and will go off on occasion when the grids cycle off. Always replace batteries in pairs, or you may be replacing the new one with the other one in short order.

That's how 06+ works. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2006/08-020-06.htm

I talked to SBC again and they really don't think its hydraulics, the symptoms just don't match weak hydraulics. They referred me to Monty and Blumenthals, he too is stumped and wants me to put some friction modifier, and more fluid in (I run 7qts, and he wants me at 10).

They were never removed... --- Update to the previous post... I talked to SBC again today, and he isn't conviced enough that the OEM's are shot to sell me new hydraulics. He had me take a measurement on the shift fork tonight, and thinks I should dump 1 qt of lucas in the trans (which I don't really want to do). But I am going to call him back tomorrow and see what happens.

I haven't tried blipping the throttle yet. I do have a NV5600 with the stock hydraulics. 75K on truck, 10K on OFE. I have a couple of things to try when I get home, SBC wants me to see how much free float the throwout bearing has.

On a 00-02 you can use a 3rd gen PF7977 and be good. On 98.5-99 you really need to get a different filter in there with any aftermarket pump because the OEM filter is only rated at 24 GPH, so the best thing would be to add a AD or FASS (just make sure the filters are up to par).

Quite a few OFE users on here so...I had a CON-OFE put in last spring and ever since the install I have a really hard time getting the trans into 1st or 2nd, unless I go 3-2 or 4-1. If I come to a stop and leave the clutch in I can shift no problem, but as soon as I release the clutch and then engage it to shift I can't get into 2nd. It's worst when warm, when cold it shifts fine. I talked to SBC and they think my OEM hydraulics are shot, but I don't want to test that theory with the $315 SBC hydraulics to find it didn't fix it.Fluid is Amsoil MTF, replaced since the clutch install with no change. Any thoughts?

CP3 does it by metering the fuel into the pump with the FCA.

Here are some excerpts from the owners manual of my 2005. If available in your area, a high cetane “premium” diesel fuel may offer improved cold-starting and warm-up performance.Number 2 Diesel Fuel Specifications Cetane Number - 40 min. (ASTM D613)Number 1 Diesel Fuel SpecificationsCetane Number - 40 min. (ASTM D613)I didn't see it in the manual, but I believe 45 is the min for <32°FCetane is similar to Octane in that there are design specs for a certain number, which is why 30 may have more BTU's but doesn't operate as well based on design specs.