AH64ID

Man that bread is making me hungry!The closest we get is nurturing the sourdough starter in the fridge. We did make some killer sourdough Cinnamon rolls this weekend camping on the N Fork of the Boise River. But for my free time? Most of it is spent with the family, lots of camping in the summer, hunting, and general goofing off outdoors.

While I think part of the theory is correct, I don't think thats really a good comparison. There are a lot more reasons than just Cetane as to why it idled very low. The flash point of #2 is about 125*F, where oil is much higher (The oil I run is 460*F). At idle speed there just isn't much combustion temp, so the oil won't fully burn or ignite. You could add Cetane booster to it until it matched #2 and it would still run like crap at low loads and rpms. The real test will be to have several rigs run the dyno without and then with Cetane boost in the truck. On the same day as close as reasonable possible to each other. I am still doing more research on this, as I have $80 is Cetane boost in the garage... I have never seen a false claim from Amsoil, and looking at there web-site its good stuff, but Mike's chart is hard to argue. But I only run a small increase, and really probably only should in winter, if at all...

The bottom oil is thicker, and will last longer based on the TBN. The pour point on the bottom one is a little lower, but that will only effect you if you get that cold.The bottom one is Amsoil PCO, whats the top?

Not a bad deal, I only use 3.5 gallons of oil every year or two these days.. But its that much a qt!

I have owned 2 Rangers. A 98 EX Cab, 4wd, 3.0 5 Speed, flare side, off-road package that I traded at 13K miles, it was ALWAYS in the shop, this or that. New trans at 9K miles.. Well I had just bought a canopy for it, so I traded it on a 99 Ex Cab, 4wd, 4.0 5 Speed, flare side, off-road package. The 99 was reasonable, it served me very well up thru 25K miles. I had a small lift on it, some 32" meats, and played pretty hard... At 25K miles is crapped the starter, the front hubs, and a few other things that I have forgotten. I sold the 99 in 01 with 38K miles on it, other than the fiasco at 25K miles it was solid (thou the morning after I signed the paperwork I went to pull it fwd to get some stuff out of the bed and the clutch wouldn't come off the floor, so I shut it off pushed it in and out of the parking spot, got in the runner and left). The front hub part sucked as it was winter and it took them 2 months to get everything workings.. Hubs would engage when in 2wd and not in 4wd about 80% of the time... Made winter driving real interesting.I traded the 99 in on a 95 4Runner with 90K miles, a 22RE and a 5 speed, and wheeled the fool out of the runner.

That sucks to hear!Good luck with the install, not sure who to recommend for vendors thou...

That looks amazing!I would say that a 1/4" is nothing to worry about on loading.

So I found on another site that the 05's are reporting rail pressure.. I may have to try one of these and put the SG in my DD.

Congrats! And most of all thank you for sharing your knowledge. I am sorta surprised at the low vote count!

Why not have a fanned cooler up front? You would get more airflow with vehicle speed, and the fan.. Then when towing hard on the fwy the fan doesn't need to run.

I am not too sure on price, as my 05 took a vacuum pump as well. But I really like how my Jake works. Call a few dealers, Cummins and Dodge, to get an idea on pricing. Cummins PN: 3800780Dodge PN: 8205577

Correct. If you only tow heavy, or only drive heavy below 30 mph then bypassing the OE cooler may be for you, otherwise a good aux cooler between the OE cooler return and the trans is the best bet. You still want the aux cooler in good airflow, even if it gets some hotter air from the a/c its okay.. Consider my a/c condensor is in front of my intercooler, and my IAT's are only +40ish from ambient at 30-35 psi boost, a/c full, 95* day, and the air coming out of a HE351 at 35 psi is HOT, HOT, HOT.. much hotter than anything your trans will put out... so they key is flow then temp. I would rather have 50 mph of 150* air than 20 mph of 95* air. Make sense?

1400 on your motor, scary.. you need a bigger turbo dude! I may have an HE351 for sale next summer.. good guy price :-) Yeah I monitor in the manifold, 5,6 on a HPCR.. And I am sure the combustion temp is higher, but how much? Can't be too much higher or the pistons would melt sooner than they do.

Mine was dirtier than that 2 seconds after it was built.. dang 3rd injection event and non-re-entrant piston design.

It really is hard to say how much the flame cools by the time it hits the pyro.

That looks like auto-ignition which, from what I understand, is the temp at which the liquid will ignite, Flash point is where the vapor will ignite. Diesel #2 auto-ignites at about 500*F, give or take, but its flash point is about 125*F.

I figured as much. Considering at 650 rpms each valve strokes about 5 times per second.

When choosing a 2-cycle one should consider the flash point, as at idle the combustion temps in a diesel are very low, and partial combustion could leave deposits. Super Tech is ~250*F, for comparison I checked the Amsoil HPI ~186*F. Of course the Amsoil MSDS doesn't list specific ingredients either..

You are the resident youtubeologist!Is it the video that makes the valve pattern look irregular? down-down-pause-pause-down-pause-down-down-pause-down-pause-pause-down.. etc

Well that certainly makes it look like the anti-gel is for the oil, not the gas.. which makes sense. It would also make sense that it should help on the diesel, but how much is hard to tell without a freezer test. Who has an empty freezer?

When my truck was my DD I did about 20K a year on the truck. Now that its not the DD I am looking at 7-9K per year!

Here are the ratios of all of them.

I did jack my rear end up about 6" and got a qt or two more out, so I could see where a good slope would get more. As for the 44% min, from the service manual: If percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may beeroded by cavitation, and cooling system componentsmay be severely damaged by corrosion.A 50:50 ratio is good for -37*F.

Yep, play with fuel and boost until you hit the boost, fuel, or EGT limit. In a perfect world you would hit your boost goal with good fuel psi and good EGT's.

Yep, NV5600 was last offered on early 05 trucks, like mine. Its the main reason they are hard to find parts for.. only used in Dodge for a few years.